1911 doubling

[Serpico1985]

Mattog22,

If you really want to learn some stuff about your 1911 the 1911forum is the place to go. There are a few highly regarded professional 1911 gunsmiths that post there regularly. Spend some time working your way through the gunsmithing section and you will find lots of valuable information. If you plan on making minor adjustments to your gun you should have a understanding of how everything works. How much pre-travel does your gun have? The 1911 must have pre-travel to function properly. When you pull your slide to half-cock and hold the trigger back, the return slide to battery, release trigger, it should reset. Also feel the trigger when the hammer is at half cock. Is there any play at all or is it stiff? These questions get asked and answered on the 1911 forum all the time. I'm basically just regurgitating the questions that you'd get asked on the other forum, questions that help the real knowledgeable folks answer your question.

By the way the screw in the trigger is to adjust and set over-travel, not pre-travel.

Good luck

[Singlestack]

Well damn. I didn't know all "the real knowledgeable folks" hung out over there. I tell ya what, when the "the real knowledgeable folks" start wearing out guns like USPSA shooters do instead of talking about them, I might go hang there a bit.

[ParaGunner]

Well damn. I didn't know all "the real knowledgeable folks" hung out over there. I tell ya what, when the "the real knowledgeable folks" start wearing out guns like USPSA shooters do instead of talking about them, I might go hang there a bit.

+1 I don't even go to that forum anymore.

[bbbean]

Some very interesting people on that site.

Interesting being the key word. There is some good info over there, but the place is crawling with users who suffer from Male Answer Syndrome. The signal to noise ratio can be a challenge.

[CSEMARTIN]

It looks like Serpico joined today. Give him some time. We'll just seem arrogant to him with all this talk about how awesome we are....even though it is true.

He's proud of his forum and is recommending a resource to try and help. Let's give the guy a break.

I agree though, the 1911forum isn't my first choice. This is the place to be. The talent on this forum can not be equalled.

[Serpico1985]

Hang on a sec. Let me back up. I defiantly didn't mean to insult this forum or anyone on it. Although re-reading my post now I can see it may have sounded like that. I spoke highly of the 1911 forum because there are some great folks over there who have gone out of their way to help me out. One guy even gave me his home and cell number telling me to call anytime with any questions. I took him up on it and he has been a great source of info. I will also agree that the "Male answer syndrome" exists over there and on most other forums. Could it be that I myself have succumb to it in this very thread?

I have no doubt that there are talented folks over here and I hope to stick around and learn as much as possible. Once again I meant no harm and will do more reading and less posting.

To the OP Mattog22,

Didn't mean to side track your thread, I hope you get the issue resolved.

[Mattog22]

No problem Serpico, thanks for trying to help. I don't think any real offense was taken, but it was funny. it's a good forum, stick around. I have had many people help me here with all sorts of issues that I couldn't find answers for elsewhere.

To update the thread I put the S&A magwell back on and haven't had any problems since. After the Ozark and MS 3-gun match Ill attempt to tackle putting the techwell back on. Thanks again for everyones help

Matt

[Braxton1]

I just had another thought about doubling and mainspring configurations: About 20 years ago, I saw a guy who could get a 1911 to double when nobody else really could do it consistently. Checked all the usual stuff - engagements, angles, disconnector length, etc. It should NOT have done it, but did with this one guy.

Turns out, the hammer strut had a little bit too much of a "bow" in it. The front surface of the strut would hit the back of the trigger as the hammer was cocking during cycling. With this guy's light trigger touch, it would actually reset the trigger during recoil. Since he was still actually applying a little bit of pressure to the trigger face, the gun would go again.

We replaced the strut and it never did it again.

Just a weird thought....

[mgood]

When I first got my Kimber Ultra CDP II, before I ever fired it, I had a local "gunsmith" install a short trigger for me. The gun would occasionally double. Don't know why, but it's been suggested that the trigger might not have been fit properly. He just dropped it in in place of the factory trigger.

I took the short trigger out and put the original trigger back in and the problem went away.

I still want the short trigger, but I want someone who knows what he's doing to set it up properly.

[hrt4me]

The 1911 must have pre-travel to function properly. When you pull your slide to half-cock and hold the trigger back, then return slide to battery, release trigger, it should reset. Also feel the trigger when the hammer is at half cock. Is there any play at all or is it stiff?

By the way, the screw in the trigger is to adjust and set over-travel, not pre-travel.

Thanks!

[xpertz]

I think the mainspring housing I switched to wasn't putting the same pressure on the sear or sear spring as the one that was in it when the trigger job was done.

The mainspring housing doesn't put pressure on the sear.

ETA: I think you may have a problem with the sear/hammer hook engagement. Changing to a 17# mainspring has unmasked a problem.

The mainspring housing certainly does put pressure on the sear spring and if the replacement MSH has a few thousandths thicker body it will push against the sear spring with more pressure.As you slide the MSH in it starts to put pressure on the sear spring about halfway up into position. It very well could be this and the simplest way to check is to just put the original parts back in.

[Mattog22]

It definitely was the MSH, ever since I put the old one back in Ive had 0 issues

[Flyin40]

I think the mainspring housing I switched to wasn't putting the same pressure on the sear or sear spring as the one that was in it when the trigger job was done.

The mainspring housing doesn't put pressure on the sear.

ETA: I think you may have a problem with the sear/hammer hook engagement. Changing to a 17# mainspring has unmasked a problem.

The mainspring housing certainly does put pressure on the sear spring and if the replacement MSH has a few thousandths thicker body it will push against the sear spring with more pressure.As you slide the MSH in it starts to put pressure on the sear spring about halfway up into position. It very well could be this and the simplest way to check is to just put the original parts back in.

I would also agree that it was the mainspring housing. The housing puts pressure and the leaf spring which can change the pressure on the sear.

Flyin