Buying a used 1100

[heckofagator]

Hey guys, I've been doing some reading here and had pretty much decided to get a Benelli M2. But while at the local fun shop today, I came across a used 1100. Seemed to be in fairly good condition - a couple light scrapes on the receiver and stock set. When I went to look at the price tag, however, I was shocked to see it listed at $225. So a couple questions, as I'm new to shotguns.

Is this a no brainer purchase? What exactly do you look for to make sure everything looks ok in these 1100's? Can these stocks (with the checkering) be re-finished pretty easily? There was no rear sight on this, and the guy at the counter said this was normal for bird guns like this. Is that correct? We measured the barrel and it was 26".

Thanks in advance,

Aaron

Edited July 29, 2010 by heckofagator

[Avezorak]

no brainer for me! 1100s are getting harder to find. Most that Ive seen in decent shape have been 450 and up. I cant speak for it as far as 3 gunning goes, but they are great hunting/clays guns. At that price, get it

[Filishooter]

I'd get back there and buy it before its gone. Decent older model 1100s are selling for $400 and higher in my area.

[heckofagator]

Yeah, I think I'll head back tomorrow. I couldn't believe it when I saw the price, especially from a shop. I just didn't know if something was majorly wrong (to warrant the low price) and didn't want to make a purchase mistake.

The barrel seemed to be smooth (no rifling) and didn't have a rib vent, if that matters. Looks real close to this one. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=180914602

Maybe I could get this one up for skeet/trap and then eventually get the M2 like I had planned if I ever get really into the 3-gun (which I do want to try).

thanks guys.

[HS101]

Make sure to check everything over. Does it cycle well (does it feel rough when you hand cycle the gun). Does the bolt lock back. If they let you strip it, check out the gas system, the reciever, the barrel where it meets up with the receiver, and the bore... Check the "hidden parts" for rust, etc... Take a few minutes and look up the manual online to get a feel how the gun comes appart.

If it looks good, grab it quick!

[CocoBolo]

Yeah, I think I'll head back tomorrow. I couldn't believe it when I saw the price, especially from a shop. I just didn't know if something was majorly wrong (to warrant the low price) and didn't want to make a purchase mistake.

The barrel seemed to be smooth (no rifling) and didn't have a rib vent, if that matters. Looks real close to this one. http://www.gunbroker...?Item=180914602

Maybe I could get this one up for skeet/trap and then eventually get the M2 like I had planned if I ever get really into the 3-gun (which I do want to try).

thanks guys.

That 1100 will put dinner on the table and with a few mods it will do very well in 3-Gun. I've shot one since 1964, the only thing I replaced is the O-Ring. If you just have to buy a big dawg daddy shot gun try an FN before you make the plunge, that is what I shoot in 3-Gun, the daughter hunts with my old 1100.

[strat81]

Can these stocks (with the checkering) be re-finished pretty easily?

Refinishing a shotgun stock, at least for field or competition use, is not difficult. If you're looking for furniture-grade work, don't follow my advice.

Go to the hardware store and visit the paint section. Pick up some Formby's Furniture Refinisher (http://www.formbys.com/products/refinisher.cfm) and a green scotch-brite pad.

Grab the stain of your choice (or none at all). I've had good luck with Minwax. Get a synthetic-bristle brush and some mineral spirits to apply the stain and clean the brush. If you buy water-based stain, you won't need the mineral spirits. You won't need much, get the small can of stain, I think 8 oz?

Now, decide if you want a glossy finish or a matte finish. If you want a glossy finish, get some aerosol lacquer. If you want a matte finish, get some Formby's low-gloss Tung Oil.

Also get some 150 and 220 grit sand paper as well as some 0000 (four-oh) steel wool. If you don't have a respirator, buy one (not a dusk mask). The fumes from this stuff will kill brain cells and leave you with a nasty headache. Nitrile gloves are a good addition too.

1) Pour some furniture refinisher on the stock and the scotch-brite pad. Use the pad to lightly scrub the old finish off. Let the chemical do the work, no need to scrub hard.

2) Once the old finish is off, you should have bare wood. Let it dry.

3) For dents and nicks, hot water can be used to help raise them. Pour it right on the wood. Once the wood is dry again, sand the wood down first with 150 and then with 220. Be careful around the checkering. Finally, go over the wood with the steel wool. All you want to do with the steel wool is knock the grain down which was raised by the furniture refinisher and hot water. Do NOT polish/burnish the wood.

4) Apply stain with a brush and/or rag. Follow the advice from The Karate Kid: Sweep the leg. Er, I mean Wax On, Wax Off. Brush/wipe the stain on, let it sit for a minute or two, and wipe it off. The longer the stain sits and the more coats you apply, the darker it will be. Each coat of stain will raise the rain a little. In between each coat, use the steel wool to knock the grain down again. This will take some of the color out, so be prepared to apply a little more stain.

5) Once the color is where you like it, get out your lacquer or tung oil.

5a) Spray the stock with lacquer using thin coats. Let me repeat that: THIN COATS. I like to apply 7-8 coats with 3-4 hours of dry time in between each coat. After the final coat, I let it sit for two days. IME, this provides a thick, durable, attractive finish. It won't look like a brand new Yamaha piano, but it doesn't cost as much either.

5b) If you're using tung oil, apply it with a rag or with the scotch-brite pad (I prefer the pad, but with the checkering, you might want to use a rag). Put some on the pad/rag and rub it into the stock, wipe off any excess. Apply another coat 24 hours later. I usually apply 3-4 coats, knocking the grain down with steel wool between each coat.

Remember, most of this stuff is flammable, toxic, and bad so take the proper precautions. It's really not that difficult to do.

I used this process on some Garand stocks:

Note the lighter color of that bottom stock. I think it was birch, not walnut.

And the finished result (a short stock M1!):

[heckofagator]

strat, that finished product is very nice. Thanks for the write up.

I went and picked up the shotgun and just got back a few minutes ago. There is a small chunk of wood out of the bottom of the stock near the pad. I'm going to try and not let that bother me. maybe I can come up with some sort of filler once I start to refinish. But everything else on the gun looks great. The owner showed me how to disassemble it (I was amazed at how easily the barrel comes off!). The o-ring looked good as did all of the other internal parts.

I guess I'm a little unsure about the barrel however. Its a non-rib vent with only the front sight. no rear sight. I'm guessing that's something you get used to. Although I would like a vented barrel that has a way to mount a rear site on it. Need to do some more reading on the barrel types.

For checking out the age of the gun, is it best to just called Remington with the serial number?

Any other mods or stuff I should check out? I tried searching "1100 mod" but it doesn't seem to pick up the "mod" part in the search, as near as I can tell.....

Anyway, I think this will be a first nice shotgun.

[GrumpyOne]

strat, that finished product is very nice. Thanks for the write up.

I went and picked up the shotgun and just got back a few minutes ago. There is a small chunk of wood out of the bottom of the stock near the pad. I'm going to try and not let that bother me. maybe I can come up with some sort of filler once I start to refinish. But everything else on the gun looks great. The owner showed me how to disassemble it (I was amazed at how easily the barrel comes off!). The o-ring looked good as did all of the other internal parts.

I guess I'm a little unsure about the barrel however. Its a non-rib vent with only the front sight. no rear sight. I'm guessing that's something you get used to. Although I would like a vented barrel that has a way to mount a rear site on it. Need to do some more reading on the barrel types.

For checking out the age of the gun, is it best to just called Remington with the serial number?

Any other mods or stuff I should check out? I tried searching "1100 mod" but it doesn't seem to pick up the "mod" part in the search, as near as I can tell.....

Anyway, I think this will be a first nice shotgun.

That gun was set up for shooting buckshot from the sound of it. In the old days, most of the original 1100's didn't have a vent rib barrel, nor did they have any sort of rear sight. It was originally made as a hunting gun, with competition way behind in the scheme of things. They are damn near bullet proof, awesome guns. The only shotgun more bullet proof (IMO) than the 1100 is the 870.

By the way, where are you from, Heckofagator? With a name like that, you must either have went to UF or lived nearby.

Edited July 30, 2010 by GrumpyOne

[heckofagator]

Yep, went to UF (91-96) and now an in St. Pete. Go Gators!

Mainly, I'm looking for an all-rounder here. Maybe something to try trap/skeet with, maybe give a go to some of the action shotgun or 3 gun matches in the area. I'm sure you guys have heard this before, but I'd like to keep this as cheap as possible, just to get my feet wet, and see if its for me. Of course, having an 1100 on hand isn't ever a bad thing, I'm guessing. But I don't want to necessarily approach the cost of an M2 either, which I actually was shopping for, but then came across this deal. What's the most effective way to make this semi-competition ready, for someone who might do a match a few times a year.

Edited July 30, 2010 by heckofagator

[jaredr]

Hey guys, I've been doing some reading here and had pretty much decided to get a Benelli M2. But while at the local fun shop today, I came across a used 1100. Seemed to be in fairly good condition - a couple light scrapes on the receiver and stock set. When I went to look at the price tag, however, I was shocked to see it listed at $225. So a couple questions, as I'm new to shotguns.

Is this a no brainer purchase? What exactly do you look for to make sure everything looks ok in these 1100's? Can these stocks (with the checkering) be re-finished pretty easily? There was no rear sight on this, and the guy at the counter said this was normal for bird guns like this. Is that correct? We measured the barrel and it was 26".

Thanks in advance,

Aaron

nahh, you should definitely stick with the M2, no need to lower your standards here so I'd steer clear of that 1100. uh, by the way, i didn't catch the name and address of the local dealer which had that 1100 you were looking at, wanna pass that on?

seriously, $225 is a steal if you're willing to put a little elbow grease. good luck with it!

[strat81]

strat, that finished product is very nice. Thanks for the write up.

I went and picked up the shotgun and just got back a few minutes ago. There is a small chunk of wood out of the bottom of the stock near the pad. I'm going to try and not let that bother me. maybe I can come up with some sort of filler once I start to refinish. But everything else on the gun looks great. The owner showed me how to disassemble it (I was amazed at how easily the barrel comes off!). The o-ring looked good as did all of the other internal parts.

I guess I'm a little unsure about the barrel however. Its a non-rib vent with only the front sight. no rear sight. I'm guessing that's something you get used to. Although I would like a vented barrel that has a way to mount a rear site on it. Need to do some more reading on the barrel types.

For checking out the age of the gun, is it best to just called Remington with the serial number?

Any other mods or stuff I should check out? I tried searching "1100 mod" but it doesn't seem to pick up the "mod" part in the search, as near as I can tell.....

Anyway, I think this will be a first nice shotgun.

Thanks for the compliment.

If you don't care about cosmetics and want to fill the chunk in, use some JB Weld. Slather it on. Let it cure for 2-3 days, rough shape it with a file, do the finish work with sand paper. I wouldn't trust wood putty to hold up to use on a gun, and even if it did, it doesn't take stain like wood does.

Bead sights do take some getting used to if all you've ever used are notch and post sights. Cheek weld is important! I do prefer the vent rib, and options are available. Check Gunbroker.

Buy some O-rings here: http://www.ericwesselman.com/store/RemmyORing.html. Don't pay $5 for an OEM Remington O-ring.

Easy loaders are popular for the 1100, as are oversized bolt handles: http://www.davesmetalworks.com/rem.html.

Edited August 1, 2010 by strat81

[Les Snyder]

A 26inch slick top gun probably has a fixed modified choke, which is a good all around choice. Depending on your choice of shotgun games, a vent rib with screw in Rem Chokes will allow you to track aerial birds better( above the top of the rib), and there are a lot of extra barrels out there. Remember that the cheek weld to the stock is your rear sight, and most field grade stocks drop away rather sharply. This causes the wrist area to recoil into your cheek and make it unpleasant to shoot a lot of birds. There are remedies if this is a problem ask some of the "old" guys at the skeet or 5 stand range for suggestions. Trap shooters don't smile and usually have bad ju ju. If you plan on 3 gun games you might need to open up the gas ports a couple of number drill sizes for reliable light load shooting. I would suggest the longer factory bolt release trigger groups than an add on bolt release lever. regards Les

UF 74