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Super Swage 600 Alignment ?


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I have a Super Swage 600 question.

Since when I bought it new the rod that inserts in the case has not seemed to align (left to right when viewed from above) exactly with the ram that swages out the primer crimp. This seems to have the effect of causing the primer pocket crimp to be removed unevenly from the primer pocket. If I stroke the handle once per piece of brass the crimp is removed from one half the pocket but generally not the whole circumfrence of the pocket. I had always assumed that some of them were like this and have been in the habit of using 3 or 4 down strokes per piece of brass with a little rotation of the brass on the rod between the strokes to cause the entire circumfrence of the crimp to be removed.

Well I since the last time I used the swager I have seen You-tube videos of people using the swager and it seems that other people are getting the crimp removed with only one stroke of the swager.

So I am now processing another batch of brass and have tried to adjust my swager so I only need one stroke of the handle to remove the crimp but have been unsuccessful. I thought that adjusting the rod to cause the pocket to be swaged deeper might work but that did not work. I have the rod adjusted now so that any deeper and the cases bind on the plate the swager comes through and I cannot fully insert the case.

I have not seen an adjustment on the swager that would allow me to fix the alignment of the rod so it matches up exactly with my swager rod and fully swages the crimp with one stoke.

Am I missing something?

I don't enjoy the swaging process and any ideas on how I can speed it up by not needing to rotate each piece of brass press the handle 3 or 4 times would save me a bunch of time on big batches of brass.

Thanks for any ideas.

-Aaron

(I also posted this to the forum at the Dillon Precision site)

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Two adjustments should correct any mis-alignment issues. First, tighten the jam nut on the back of the case backup rod with a deprimed case on the rod, and the swage rod in the primer pocket. This makes sure the backup rod is centered. Next, while the swager is still in this configuration, snug the set screw on the side of the swager body to lock the flat support block in place.

If you need any additional assistance, please phone us when you can be in front of the swager.

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I place a piece or two of soft-sided velcro on each side of the inside housing channel where the back end of the brass comes down. This will allow you to just slap the rod down with the brass on it and have it perfectly centered in the gap so that the swage rod goes straight in with no alignment issues.

I don't know whose idea that was originally, but it's a good one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just ordered my swager, have been borrowing one. found this post on You tube, thought you might enjoy it.

would be a timesaver!!

Genius! If only . . . .

Edited by slavic09
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  • 11 months later...

Two adjustments should correct any mis-alignment issues. First, tighten the jam nut on the back of the case backup rod with a deprimed case on the rod, and the swage rod in the primer pocket. This makes sure the backup rod is centered. Next, while the swager is still in this configuration, snug the set screw on the side of the swager body to lock the flat support block in place.

If you need any additional assistance, please phone us when you can be in front of the swager.

I guess when all else fails, read the manual. Or the Enos forum! :cheers:

I did both and this actually works. Was having trouble with "shavings" on some pretty heavily crimped PPU .223 cases. Doing this seems to have fixed it and I'm getting a much better looking radius now.

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