1973 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Does anyone know if the Witness Match has a 22 conversion available? If so, who makes it and how reliable is it? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 EAA sells a .22 conversion. Check out their website for caliber conversion kits. Most people I have talked to say that it has some feeding problems though. I havent tried it myself so I don't have any direct experience to offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1973 Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rattletrap1970 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I wanted one of these but the wait for one is ridiculous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 EAA sells a .22 conversion. Check out their website for caliber conversion kits. Most people I have talked to say that it has some feeding problems though. I havent tried it myself so I don't have any direct experience to offer. ON the subject,....I just got one,..but for the small frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto727 Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 how do you like it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 how do you like it? the fit and feed is fine,...slightly tight at first. Polish the rails on it a little bit. Use oil to lubricate. The kit I have comes with a mag release that sits the mag higher. I had light strikes,...so I am going to investigate why. Perhaps as I mention in the other thread,....a longer firing pin as the .22 OEM unit is extremely short. Some polishing might help,...and I might try it without the FPB, to make sure it is not getting caught or hung up anywhere. If that doesn't fix that issue then perhaps a heavier hammer spring might do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Used the heaviest hammer spring I could find in the bag of springs I have collected. Reliable ignition except once. Feed was good as was extraction which still puzzles me, as the extractor barely looks to contact the rim, and also appears weak. I polished the pin and block in the areas I thought would make contact. Overall happy with it, although I can not see why Tanfoglio went with a mag design which does not lock open the slide when empty. There is a little nub on the mag itself, ahead of the ejector that is basically the ejector for the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) just a follow up,...getting lots of missfires lately using the lead High velocity Winchester laser,....tried Dyna points,..less light strikes, but not great extraction. I think the problem lies with the firing pin. I can not get a heavier hammer spring,...the DA must be at least 15lbs. The firing pin is just too damn short. I am going to cut down a factory 9mm firing pin and see how that works out. **update,...the small frame firing pin is very close at the rear (with the cuts for the FPB),...but was obviously too long. I cut one down to try out. Edited September 28, 2010 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 well,...the plot thickens. FPB will not work with the 9mm firing pin. I did make a longer pin which does work,..but it is too heavy. The rear of the .22 OEM pin has been lightened in the back,..it looks similiar to the Henning pin in the back. SO,..the 9mm can be cut to work with the .22 slide,..but should be lightened as the back.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 now working good. Just fired off some winchester X with my 9mm firing pin cut down. It is a few MM longer than the factory .22 pin,...and also has some material at the back removed. Worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Keep the posts coming Brother! I have my 22 conversion ordered and now just waiting fo it to arive. I'll be using it for steel plate matches throughout the fall and winter month's and it's good to work out the quircks early on. I even ordered another firing pin so I have one to modify. Many thanks! Sean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 I will post a pic of the pin,..I removed material at the back (the thick part) to simulate the OEM .22 pin, which looks similiar to the Henning/EGW pins. I also had to flatten out the tip,...actually went thru the back of a casing(!). I also cut a groove in the 9mm pin in the same spot the OEM .22 pin has a groove to capture the spring. ONly trick to that is not to cut too much out, and bend or twist that end of the spring in to make it stay in place. You don't want it riding up. I removed the extractor and polished it up,..as I was told it would help. I still feel a slightly heavier extractor spring would help,..but you need to find one. The 9mm /.40 extractor spring are too big in diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Keep the posts coming Brother! I have my 22 conversion ordered and now just waiting fo it to arive. I'll be using it for steel plate matches throughout the fall and winter month's and it's good to work out the quircks early on. I even ordered another firing pin so I have one to modify. Many thanks! Sean. I assume you are getting the long slide /large frame kit. I have the small frame kit,...(ie: small frame mags) Most .22 kits in the USA ( I think?) are large frame kits. FYI.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Yup! Large frame is what I'm running. It's suppose to be here sometime this week. I hope it's here before the plate match on Thursday but if not oh well. It will give me more time to fit the slide and frame together. I was wondering if lightening the slide would help it to function better? A friend of mine has a small frame conversion on his tz-75 and that thing just sings. He shoots IDPA and practices with the 22lr setup. He had the slide milled to take off a few onces and it just runs and runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I found the slide to be quite light. The CZ kits I have seen have a ruger .22 type slide,...where only a rear portion of the slide moves. I found my hammer caused the most resistance,...if anything that would slow down the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 had some more light strikes, and hard strikes. I see now that the problem lies with WHERE the firing pin is hitting the casing,...not on the rim...but sometimes just inside of the rim. If the primer is in the rim, I am kinda screwed. I have a few things I can do,....one is dremel out the lug a bit to get the barrel to sit slightly lower, as the firing pin is positioned to hit near 12 o'clock. This could cause problems with the extractor channel, I wish I had noticed this before I hacked at the pieces a bit. I would have returned it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 wow...more of a PITA than I thought. Basically the 9mm pin I used, I did so without a FPB,...so the pin spun around in the channel...never giving a consistant hit. The channel of the FP in the .22 slide is a little different,....so the 9mm pin had to be dremeled to work with any FPB in that slide. The only reason I am using the FPB is to keep the firing pin hitting consistant, not turning....makes a difference according to the shape of the of the tip of the firing pin. I still have some space to work with, so I will reshape the tip of the firing pin so the part that hits first will hit the rim first always at 12 o'clock. maybe it was not locking up consistant,...but that would lead to other issues. I should have just sent it back, but I find it kind of a challenge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I finally recieved my 22lr conversion kit and I have to say i was a bit disapointed. The slide, including the breach face, is aluminum and after fitting the thing I took it out to the range to try it out and I was mumbling adn grumbling- WTF?!! First of all, light strikes like I've never seen! I still have the factory hammer and spring in my stock 2 and that should be what they figure it should run on. Well it doesn't! Second of all, it shoots everywhere but where you point it! I set up a purch/rest so I could get the thing sited in. I sat there going click-click-click-bang! round after round. At 15 feet I was shooting a group of about six inches! It was like there wasn't anything holding the barrel in the same place. Not only that, The sites had absolutely no adjustment left for elevation. When I recieved it the rear site was turned all the way down and I get out to the range and the thing is shooting four inches high! Oh yah! At 15 feet! So do I take off a 1/16" off the rear site? I've never had to do that before. I used hollow points during my first test and they didn't feed worth a crap. I did cut in a new ramp when I got home to see if the thing would feed better. That worked out ok when i took it out yesterday after our local match but still needed some fine tuning. All in all, what a major let down! The reason I bought it in the first place is so I could have an inexpencive way of plactice and to use at the local plate match. Now it's going to set in a box on my shelf unless I can get it dialed. We'll see. I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) I thought it was going to be a cheap way to practice as well. They should have spent more time on the firing pin,...I have not seen a CZ kit firing pin,...but something tells me it would probably be a rectangular piece at the tip. The CZ kit I saw worked great,...even with lighter hammer springs. Did you check out the casing to see if it is not hitting on the rim? I have no complaints about feeding or extraction,..but the firing pin and FPB needs some work. I might be able to try it out later this evening or tomorrow to see if my dremel work on the pin and FPB has solved the problem. Edited October 25, 2010 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 One thing I'm going to try is to file down the firing pin stop only where the hammer makes contact. One of the first things I noticed is how much of the firing pin is protruding from the face of the stop. It's just barely sticking out! If the slide is even just a hair back from where it needs to be the hammer doesn't even make contact! The extractor could cause this to happen with how it meets up with the barrel. when the slide chambers a round the extractor is disengaged by the barrel when they come together. When tuning the extractor I took it down quite a bit where it meets the barrel to where the extractor is still engaged yet leaves the hook flush to the barrel face. It's hard to explain to those who haven't seen how the two interact so hopefully tonight I can post some pics to aid in the explanation. Now the reason I say the firing pin stop is I believe the hammer has to have more follow through in order to transfer the momentum to the firing pin. I guess I can add material to the firing pin by welding a touch to the hammer end of the pin but this might change the temper of the steel and bugger that all up. plus I think I would be able to replace the FP stop easier. If this works out to help on the strike end of things I was going to also try to file the tip of the firing pin flat and then into a vertical line face. So instead of it looking like this- (.) it would look like this('). I hope this makes sense. This way it would make contact with the rim. You would want the FPB in place so the firing pin wouldn't rotate but I hate those things so I would modify that so it doesn't actually work. It would only serve the purpose of keeping it from rotating. Anyhow that's where I'm at with the thing. I won't give up until she's absolutely hopeless or singing like a bird. The accuracy thing will be dealt with later. For now I just want it to go bang every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 One thing I'm going to try is to file down the firing pin stop only where the hammer makes contact. One of the first things I noticed is how much of the firing pin is protruding from the face of the stop. It's just barely sticking out! If the slide is even just a hair back from where it needs to be the hammer doesn't even make contact! The extractor could cause this to happen with how it meets up with the barrel. when the slide chambers a round the extractor is disengaged by the barrel when they come together. When tuning the extractor I took it down quite a bit where it meets the barrel to where the extractor is still engaged yet leaves the hook flush to the barrel face. It's hard to explain to those who haven't seen how the two interact so hopefully tonight I can post some pics to aid in the explanation. Now the reason I say the firing pin stop is I believe the hammer has to have more follow through in order to transfer the momentum to the firing pin. I guess I can add material to the firing pin by welding a touch to the hammer end of the pin but this might change the temper of the steel and bugger that all up. plus I think I would be able to replace the FP stop easier. If this works out to help on the strike end of things I was going to also try to file the tip of the firing pin flat and then into a vertical line face. So instead of it looking like this- (.) it would look like this('). I hope this makes sense. This way it would make contact with the rim. You would want the FPB in place so the firing pin wouldn't rotate but I hate those things so I would modify that so it doesn't actually work. It would only serve the purpose of keeping it from rotating. Anyhow that's where I'm at with the thing. I won't give up until she's absolutely hopeless or singing like a bird. The accuracy thing will be dealt with later. For now I just want it to go bang every time. WOW! that is exactly what I could have written,...I removed material from the Firing pIN stop as well,...but only where needed (not on the sides of it,...so it has some material to assist it in staying in the slide) I also removed material so the FPB only assists in keeping it in place. I was thinking of removing material from the extractor where is contacts the slide at its head during lock up,....as I too noticed it protruding out to the side, similiar to a loaded chamber indication, BUT, it does this all the time. I am not sure if this will be beneficial, as it should be obvious at the factory (!!!!!) Your post makes complete sense to me.... One thing I could suggest, is to use a regular FPB and firing pin,..but cut it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 The dilema I'm running into is with the large frame 22lr package is none of the parts from the standard slides are interchangable. the geometry is completely different. The firing pin chamber has a stop built in it. I would have to mill off roughly 3/8 of an inch off the the thickest part of the pin from the pin side back. Still frustrated over the thing! Something just came to mind! Maybe a 1911 firing pin. Hmm?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 have you tried a small frame firing pin? I it worked as the thick part is the same overall length,...had to trim the flat part down and the length of the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 just fired 8 rds with out any issues,..light or off primer strikes. Hope this is solved. I slightly angles the tip so it hits the rim first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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