InTheBlack Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 The local range got some police turn ins, and a G19 turns out to double. First round normal when trigger breaks, but another round follows when the trigger is released. What is the "usual cause" of this? When I took off the slide, it seems to me that when I pull the trigger back so the trigger bar bears upon the connector, there is a lot of inward sideways flexing in the plastic frame which houses the parts. It happens to have a plus connector. There is a wear pattern on the side of the connector and the side of the trigger bar; dunno what "normal" wear marks look like. The trigger bar is able to slide beyond the connector when I wiggle things; ie the bent portion of the connector isn't acting as a stop (I mean the portion of the connector which is bent at a different angle on the -,0,+ connectors). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 No idea... but I'd say PRACTICE!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 Does the G19 have matching #s on the Frame and slide or is it a parts gun? Is it an early G-19? Some early G-19s exhibited this problem and Glock reportedly designed a + trigger bar (yes, trigger bar; not connector) to deal with the engagement of the trigger bar and striker tang. Possible suggestions, if it's not either one of those scenarios: Replace all the trigger group parts (trigger housing, trigger bar, trigger return spring and connector) with new parts and replace the striker and striker spring. I set up that same situation once when I took a Dale Rhea striker mod too far --- fortunately I heard the striker firing on release in dryfire.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 What Nik said. Is this a Glock refurb? If so, has a 3rd party owned it since Glock refurbished it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 I'd replace the fire control group: trigger and bar, ejector and housing and connector. It sounds loke someone tried to do a little home smithing on the G19. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 What Nik said. Have your local Glock Armorer get a + cruciform from Glock for more engagement. Early Gl 19's needed them for more engagement of the striker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew_Mink Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 Either that or the striker tail has been rounded off, or the trigger bar has been rounded as well. More proof we learn something new every day. I have never heard of the + trigger bar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InTheBlack Posted December 27, 2003 Author Share Posted December 27, 2003 Actually one of my personal Glocks has the + trigger bar, and it confused the heck out of me the first time I took it apart and wondered why the mark wasn't on the connector-- I started a thread about it recently in this forum. Anyway-- I didn't notice if it was an early model, matching serial number or not. I'll have to check. This was sold by a distributor to the FFL as a "Police Turn-In" gun. Dunno if it went thru Glock or not. Probably not... Another gun in the same lot has a NY trigger spring in it, wheras this one has the standard trigger spring. The striker tail looks fine to me. But if it was not engaging due to being worn, wouldn't it go full auto, instead of waiting for the trigger to be released? The object is to fix it with minimal cost, else returning it to the distributor is the cheapest fix. Anyone know the spec for the engagement between the trigger bar and the striker tail? And how one would measure actual engagement without a cut-down slide? >>> I heard the striker firing on release in dryfire.. >>> I don't see how this is possible. Without the slide moving backwards in recoil, the striker tail won't go back to re-engage the trigger bar in the first place. Unless you were holding the trigger back and manually racking the slide, then releasing the trigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 Trust me the only cure is new parts. They're easy to find these days. When I took my "home" trigger job (the only kind in 1993) too far on a G20, the only choice was to send it to Glock, Smyrna GA. Same problem, full auto on trigger reset, until the trigger is fully forward again. Very scary. You're parts are beyond repair. I'd go with "standard" everything, no + or - , then see how it functions. A + trigger bar is a cheap option but not my choice. The ONLY cure is a new trigger bar, also change the striker and the disconnector, the trigger spring and the plastic disconnector housing. Total cost less than $80. www.glockmeister.com. Or call Glock. Explain the circumstances & they are likely to do it for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InTheBlack Posted December 30, 2003 Author Share Posted December 30, 2003 It does NOT go full auto. It _doubles_. Spending eighty bucks ain't gonna happen, because the distributor is responsible for making it good. I'm just trying to visualize what's happening. The trigger bar must be catching the striker hook on recock, but when the trigger is released, allowing the bar to move forwards... it must be moving downwards "too far" as it goes forwards to the trigger reset position. Does the connector have a role in preventing this presumed downwards movement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 I heard the striker firing on release in dryfire..>>> I don't see how this is possible. Without the slide moving backwards in recoil, the striker tail won't go back to re-engage the trigger bar in the first place. Unless you were holding the trigger back and manually racking the slide, then releasing the trigger? That's it! Dry-fire, Rack the slide while holding the trigger depressed, slowly release the trigger, if it goes click again --- your Glock's doubling. You can check for Trigger Bar/Striker engagement with an armorer's slide cover plate --- basically just a plate with the bottom half cut off. If the distributor ought to be fixing it --- return it to him. If you're going to fix it, it'll need new parts as we outlined... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InTheBlack Posted December 31, 2003 Author Share Posted December 31, 2003 Changed the connector for a known good connector and the gun did not double. But when I put the original connector back, the gun no longer doubled. This is very puzzling. However, when you take your fingernail and pull the connector towards the center of the frame, so as to allow the trigger bar to slip out backwards, the original connector is much easier to move than the known good connector. Might the "bad" connector have been bent, perhaps by someone prying it out of the plastic housing? Or do old connectors get weak that way? I took some digital photos... Is there a terminology for the various portions of the connector? Would someone please explain the timing/mechanics of how the connector gets shoved sideways by the serpentine track in the slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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