BayouSlide
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Posts posted by BayouSlide
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Why 5 minutes? Part of the game......part of the pressure...keeps the match moving....rewards those who can puzzle through a stage quicker...or if they can't figure it out, forces the A/M shooters to slow down to our C pace so they can execute it without crashing and burning
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An excellent shooter who just keeps getting better and better...and he and his wife, Annette, put lots of effort into our local clubs to boot.
Well deserved, Elliott, well deserved
Curtis
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Blade-Tech DOH is the overwhelming choice for USPSA Production, or for Limited shooters who don't use race holsters. There's a reason.
SA Friday gave you some good advice: get a holster for the G34. It will fit both and give you some options, including when you sell it later.
Curtis
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I just ordered one of theses along with there Range Rug.
http://www.ishot-inc.com/store2/product_in...;products_id=38
+1 on the i-shot bags. I get different colors so that it's easy to identity which caliber mags in which.
Curtis
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Can't go wrong with the entire Burkett DVD series, then pick up 3 GMs to continue your education.
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Just relax and enjoy it...getting worried wont help or change anything....just go, and do your best
Good advice from GJ...any other attitude only creates problems, big match or little match.
Curtis
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Thanks, all...really learned something here today.
Curtis
BTW, the explanation in the Dillon accessory manual is excellent!...must have overlooked it in the past.
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When using a case guage, check your brass with it AFTER sizing BEFORE you load it, and the finished rounds. You don't have to guage every case before loading, just take a sampling. But I do suggest guaging every loaded round. I recomend using the Dillon guage, it has a go/no go indicator on each end of the guage, one for the head spacing (which is taken off the shoulder to the bottom of the case), and the other for the neck length on the top of the guage. its pretty sweet.
Good info! I had picked up the Dillon check to check ammo but was unaware (and too embarrassed to ask) about those nicely machined slots on the top and bottom of the gauge. I was using it like my 9mm gauge and not aware of the go-no go aspect for the additional parameters.
Just to clear up any confusion between which end of the gauge would be considered top and bottom... if I consider the top of the gauge where you drop the round in, I'm assuming then the base of the cartridge must end up within the area between the top of the gauge and the bottom of the slot if the head space is correct. Same for the bottom if the neck length is correct. Or do I have it back-a**wards
Curtis
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Started in Production, will stay in Production. Glock 34 and/or 17, with TruGrip, stainless rod, 13# ISMI springs and Vanek trigger...lets me forget about all the rest and get on with shooting.
Curtis
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Don't get nervous, Rye, they're pretty hard to break...that's one reason why we like 'em.
Pick up a copy of this: http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186
and you'll learn all you need to know and then some.
Curtis
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Did you check with LaRue?
Curtis
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Here's what I did on a different model holster with the same problem.
Find a bolt and matching nut with the same size threads. If you have a few thread available on the back side of your problem fastener, thread in the bolt with nut as far as you can, then tighten the nut up against the back of the spinning fastener in the holster to act as a locknut. Then you shout be able to put a wrench on your new locknut and hold the faster from the back to keep it from spinning as you loosen the holster attachment screw.
Hope my explanation was clear...should work like a charm if you have a few threads available. Worked for me for even holster fasteners with locktite on the threads.
Good luck.
Curtis
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Here is something that was once suggested to me:
One advantage of having to go though an FFL is that FFLs are on record and can easily be checked. Ask them what FFL they will be using and check this person out and make sure that they have spoken with the seller. Clear it with the FFL and agree to mail the CC or MO to the FFL. The seller can pick it up when they deliver the gun for shipment.
That's seems like an excellent idea if I were in your shoes
Curtis
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Money orders can be traced (and even cancelled) if lost or otherwise not reaching their destinations.
Just be aware that the Post Office requires you to pay a fee to investigate and then, IF the original M.O. is not cashed, will refund only AFTER 60 says from the date of issue.
I'm now stuck in this situation from a M.O. that ended up going awry.
If the original seller...or more likely whoever in his apartment complex that got his mail...decides to cash it, I'm not sure what will happen next.
This is the only time I've had a problem with a M.O....besides standing in line for hours to get one...but it's a pain in the posterior since I had to send the seller another and awaiting to see if I get my funds back without any more hassle but the time delay. Makes me appreciate credit cards and even the online payment processing company that shall go unnamed
Curtis
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Will add my voice to the chorus that I NEVER had problems with Winchester brass...in fact, it's my gold standard that I use for set up and for match brass.
S&B brass, on the other hand, is always easy to identify. It's the one that feels like something is wrong on the primer seating stroke on my 550B...always seats, but always requires twice the force of anything else.
Curtis
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I tested various VV powders but for 9mm in quantity, just not worth the extra cost and difficulty to obtain. Titegroup works equally well in my G34 & 17 with 147 gr Zero JHPs. I've loaded it as low as 3.25 +/-, but now use 3.3 grains because once in a blue moon with the lower load, I might get the slide not to cycle properly if my thumb dragged on it a little or my grip was off. I actually find the 3.3 gr load runs the gun a little better and a tad better slide velocity/less sluggish feel.
Good luck!
Curtis
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I use 147 gr JHP Zeros over 3.3 gr of Titegroup and FSP primers in my G34, G17 & G19 and find it an excellent and accurate load, for practice and competition.
Curtis
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To everyone involved in organizing this year's match. I'm looking forward to attending.
I'll second that motion.
:cheers: Thanks to all involved for stepping up to the plate and making things happen.Already sent in my app to R.O.
Curtis
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Is your flier the first round chambered from a fresh magazine? And, if so, how do you chamber that first round: with the slide release lever or slipshot the slide manually?
Curtis
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I shot with him at a local match in January and he was shooting production class with a CZ!!!. Of course he won.
According to a friend of his, he decided he wanted to add a GM in Production to his accomplishments...it shouldn't take long
.Curtis
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Yes Jim, but can it be undone?
No, not with out removing material. There lies the problem. Only thing you can do is replace the frame. Sucks.
Jim
As Jim said, unfortunately you're out of luck. A rather reasonable line in the sand has been very clearly draw with the latest Production rule clarifications and removal of frame material is definitely on the other side of that line.
That said, I doubt anyone on the local level would give you any grief over it, but it is nevertheless an illegal mod.
The only way to be legal is to replace the frame.
Curtis
Edited (because I hate typos!)
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My favorite load is 3.3 grains of Titegroup behind a Zero 147 gr JHP, with a 13# IMSI spring. Many feel the bigger bullets feel softer due to a recoil "push" rather than "snap". You can load down toward 3.2 grs, but may find that you're skirting minimum power factor and may occasionally have the pistol fail to recycle properly once is a while if you sap a little energy off the slide with a less firm grip or your thumb dragging a little on the side of the slide.
As always, YMMV.
Curtis
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Matt Burkett's DVD on Practical Shotgun has a useful section on maintaining and improving Benellis, in addition to shooting tips.
Curtis
Trying to find a straight answer
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted · Edited by BayouSlide
Appendix D: 21: Authorized modifications (Strictly limited to these items and their stated guidelines):
• Exchange of minor components (springs, safeties, slide stops, guide rods).
See the Appendix for the complete list of permitted mods, but be aware that this language is now being clarified by the USPSA Board to permit a number of other minor mods that aren't currently under D-21.