TRG65

Couldn't find my moly dry lube, must have gotten junked in the move. I washed the bolt with Rem oil spray, dried and then lightly sprayed. Problems have gone away. Closing is sluggish on a full mag, and much better on any reduced capacity. Thanks all.

I haven't had a chance to pull it out and make sure it is lubed up. I can seat a full mag under a closed bolt, but when I do I can't be gentle. I do tend to run my guns w/o much lube because I'm accustomed to Glocks, and I thought I had read somewhere that with gas op'ed like the AR and 1100's lube was an enemy because it gunked things up. Therefore I use a dry moly film lube. I will look the rifle over probably tomorrow and repost.

When I have a full mag inserted with the bolt locked back, and I drop the bolt release, my rifle jams. All I have to do to clear is pull the bolt back a second time and let it fly but that seems to be a little much. The gun doesn't seem to be dirty, and has been repeatedly cleaned, this occurs regardless of recent cleaning. It indicates to me that the recoil spring has weakened. The rifle only has less than 500 live rounds through it. Although I do dry fire it a good bit. I'm not keen on the idea of using downloaded mags. Can anyone recommend a good replacement spring? I was looking at the CS springs that are sold under Tubb's name. Or is there some other solution I should look at. Thanks Seth

I have blown up a cartridge trying to reseat a primer. I keep the largest casing fragment as a reminder of past stupidity. I feel I was fortunate that I was loading very light bullseye rounds at that time. Do it once and you won't think about it again, or if have such a thought you too can look at the casing fragment proped on the back ledge of your work bench. Apparently you are using a hand priming device, I didn't have a hand primer at that time, because I wasn't loading for rifles yet. I was using the Lee progresive press I had at the time, so theortically I probably had more leverage. But by the same token, it was having the press that saved me, because the body of the press was between myself and the detonation. Also the bullet expended a large portion of its energy running into the case head. I will not reseat a primer by hand or any other way. Hi my name is Seth and I've been a stupid reloader in the past

I've been shooting a load I got from JP. When I was looking into getting a new AR, I looked at a JP and asked someone from that shop questions about the accuracy of his rifles. Additionally, I asked what load would be recommend for the 69 gr. The answer was 24.5 grs VV140. I have tried that and VV135 (same volume on Dillon gives 23.8 which I used). Both have given sub-moa in 2 different ARs, one 24", one 16".

I actually went the opposite way as dj, but for slide feel, and balance. The 34/17 boils down to which feel and balance you like. I've heard there are some that even prefer the 19 over the 17 or 34, because of "feel."

It is a no ban upper I got the flash hider off today and put an MSTN QCB on. Now I need to how noticible the improvement is.

actual bullet length can vary are you measuring cartridge overall length or are you measuring case head to ogive? case head to ogive should vary less than COAL

Any helpful hints on removing a threaded flash hider so I can install a comp. The installed flashhider has a silver washer behind it I don't know if that is a shim or something. I don't want to bugger the finish on my barrel. The flash hider is an A1 style that came installed when I purchase the upper from White Oak Armament. I tried two vise grips (with the grips padded) but that didn't seem to get me anywhere I'm going to dig my bench vise out of a box, and hunt up a box wrench tomorrow, but is there anything else I need

Is the IOR illuminated? also I currently have a 1.5 x 5 pro diamond. I don't like the 1.5 I think it is too much. I don't know whether it is the magnification or the feels to me short eye relief, but I have a problem transitioning to the right. I was looking for a true 1 power to improve that. Can you "see" more with the 1.1 IOR? Thanks

Thanks for that update, I've been asking for one for Christmas. Nightforce has definately been having problems bringing that scope to market Funny how much they have been advertising a scope that is still 6 months off for the last several months.

sv take it for what its worth, you started this thread by asking, no need to shout. I like QL. I understand the principle behind the program, but having worked across the hall from the reaction engineers in a previous job, I'm sure the program is simplified. That said however, my observations usually agree with what QL tells me. For S&G I went and ran some of the number that were posted in the 9mm major data thread. In particular, a load by Little Bill of 8.1 TB at 1.150. I used a Spr HP GD to sim (it usually gives the lowest pressures) and it came out at 61900+. The reason I picked that load was he talked about his primers being very flat. Different guns respond differently to pressure, apparently you have a gun that takes pressure well. Also, as much issue has I've had with VV's reloading data, their max loads of 340 are 5.1, 5.9, and 5.1 depending on bullet type. QL shows 35000 with the 124 SP GD at 5.6 using your OAL, and a case capacity used of 91% You asked about 7.2. Please introduce your self if we ever shoot together. I do believe QL. I want to be sure my wife and I are standing back. Seth Ritzman

actually a normal glock trigger spring works the opposite of this, it pulls the trigger to the rear. The force to reset the trigger comes from the striker spring. Seth

In fact here is the link http://www.neconos.com/shop/index.php?shop=1&cat=2

just shy of 35 you guys really need to think about investing in a copy of QL if you play with powder/cartridge combinations that are out there. I bought mine after I stuck the bolt on my custom rem 700 308.

It won't feel like factory, nor will it feel like a match trigger. I like my triggers mushy. A no change in feel trigger would be the best in my opinion, crisp breaks are not what I want. In this respect the Beamhit mod is close to what I want. Poundage wise I have never been able to tweek it to the same place as a real trigger. I have played with striker springs, and connectors. You can get improvement, but don't expect it to equate to your 2.5# smooth trigger. Please keep in mind my mod is 5 years old, their technique could have changed.

Beamhit actually did a modification to one of my guns to make it double action and Beamhit compatible. I had Beamhit do one of my G-17 about 5 years ago, and at that time it was about $200 Considering the amount I had to pay beamhit to have this done it would be like someone telling all of the secrets of the Vanek trigger job.

your welcome

7.2 vv n340 1.175 OAL inputing primer type isn't available in my version, I don't know if newer allow or not montana gold is not a bullet option, I used a hornady xtp 124 over 70,000 psi with a speer gold dot 124 over 67,000 7.7 vv 3n37 1.160 using the speer 124 just shy of 60,000

I have used clipped 13s (6 coils) in my 34, and tried a 13 in the 17 I'm shooting now. However, I have gone to the new ISMI 11. I load all my own ammo with mixed range brass (however, most of it is once fired win white box) and zero 147 JHPs. The 2 jams I've had with this set up were both due to bad brass, no fault of the gun. The 11#, a shock buff, and a tungsten guide rod combo runs the gun very quick and flat in my opinion.

Thanks all That is pretty much what I figured. A lot of us use a guide rod of some type of steel with ISMI springs, and like Flex said they are definately not factory options either. The safeties do still function so I don't have to worry about that part either. Jim, it was nice meeting you as well. Now comes the rough part....because I hate waiting for the scores to be posted. Vince, I figured you were using a gun that Tim tweeked. If so, I imagine you are shooting a nicer gun than I. I just bought Steve's book so hopefully I can start practicing at least via dry fire, or else I might start to be on the receiving end of those whoppings.

Is an internal overtravel adjustment screw like Lone Wolf sells for Glocks legal in USPSA production? I had a conversation with a friend (also a local MD but not at the club that we were shooting at) which puzzled me. I have been under the belief that the internal overtravel adjustments are legal. I came home and ran a search, but didn’t come up with any previous thread which really answered my question. I found one where Matt K. talks about his internal overtravel adjustment being production legal, and a thread where the speed bump Beretta trigger is not legal because it is external. The position my friend took was that since it was not a factory option then it wasn’t legal. But there is plenty of non factory internal modifications which seem to be legal. I presume that because the appendix says that reliability work is ok then gives the examples of throating and trigger work as examples, and that weight can not exceed 2 oz. over factory all the “normal” mods come from these too places. By normal mods I mean tungsten or steel guide rods, sub 2 lb triggers, ISMI 13 lb springs . . . . So what is wrong with a Lone Wolf overtravel screw, which is in my opinion internal so it doesn’t violate the no external modifications other than sights, and is trigger work. My “argument” for enhanced reliability is that it reduces the possibility of short stroking the trigger. I figured someone else has gone through this, so before I sent an email to HQ, I figured I’d ask here. Thanks Seth Ritzman

George/Clay I have to disagree. I have sanded the inside of the mag well to remove problems with mags sticking. It has done a marvelous job. I went from having 5 (if memory serves) of my mags not dropping in my lastest g-17 to problem free working. I did this by sanding, lots and lots of sanding. I have done this in three glocks, it improved the function in all three. Seth

I was curious about this as well. My +15 came on a field couse standard as compared to the normal standards I've been shooting at clubs. Where you stand in box A and do everything. It will be interesting to see if it is used when things get updated

I've got an AR with a A1 style flashhider, and I'm interested in installing a comp of some sort. However, before I went and bought the comp I wanted to make sure I had the tools to do the swap. Please assume I have no tools, what would I need? The barrel is a no-ban threaded version. Thanks Seth