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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

flycaster

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Everything posted by flycaster

  1. dajarrel- as I sit here with a loader and the GP, I think you have nailed it. The brass might be hanging up. These are commercial loads (UMC), so I have no control over the crimp- but I may try a different brand. I don't understand, though, why this only happens with Comps, and not HKS. Chuck
  2. Hello. I want to try my Ruger GP100 in some competition. I have eight Safariland Comp II speedloaders, in the appropriate size (Ruger GP, S&W L-frame). When I try practice reloads with live ammo, often they won't go to place unless they are exactly parallel to the charge holes. I found an HKS speedloader in the "K-frame" size and, even though a bit small, it worked prety well. The same (smaller) size Comp II's didn't work at all. Since the rounds are partway into the charge holes, I don't think chamfering would help. The Comp's don't seem to be hanging up on the grip. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Chuck, who's HAPPY that THE BEARS are in the Super Bowl!!!
  3. "He is the one guy in the world I hope to meet some day." Hey- I like you too! Seriously- I continue to read and hear more and more good things about the folks in the top levels of the shooting sports. Try getting some jump shot pointers from Allen Iverson some time! Chuck
  4. I used to stage the trigger. Now, I find that I can shoot more consistently with a smooth, even trigger pull. In fact, I hardly ever jerk a shot in D.A., while the "jerk" behind the gun still does that occasionally in single action shooting . Chuck
  5. bountyhunter- My G19 has a Scherrer 3.5# connector in it. I find that I can treat it as a two-stage trigger. First, I take up the "slop" (a necessary part of the Glock inner workings) until it stops at the second stage. From there I can treat it as a pretty good single stage trigger. Not like a 1911, but still pretty darn good. If you can work the trigger reset on each shot, you're pretty much at the "single action" stage every time. Chuck
  6. I shoot bottom feeders in competition, but I just love shooting a wheelie whenever I can. It's just so much fun, and it feels, well, right. Chuck
  7. What Wayne said. Chuck
  8. I think Mr. Jarrett's video clip is invaluable. Every handgun shooter should watch it- over, and over, and over, and... Chuck
  9. Absolutely. Jarrett's video, especially the part about the trigger finger and weak thumb being equally forward, was a huge lightbulb for me. And the gun IS in line with the forearm, if the hand is held loosely at your side. This demonstrates the grip. However, when you take the stance, the WRIST turns outward. The gun position in the hand doesn't change. So, if this makes sense: The grip is such that the gun is in line with the forearm, IF the wrist is held perfectly straight as well. However, during shooting it is not. I suppose in a Weaver stance, everything would remain lined up, but the other drawbacks make this less than optimal. H. Got it. Thanks. Chuck
  10. Almost every instructional book, article, or video on handgun shooting emphasizes the need to place the gun in the strong hand so that the barrel is in a direct line with the shooter's forearm. Then most competition shooters advise using an isoceles stance. Could someone please tell me how that is possible? If the barrel is in line with the forearm, and the barrel is aimed at the target, it seems to me that the muzzle would be pointing to the left (for a right-handed shooter). The picture of B.E. at the top of this page illustrates my point, I believe. The gun is not anywhere near alignment with Brian's forearm, yet I sure wouldn't question his results! Any opinions would be welcome. Chuck
  11. Some posters just don't seem to remember when they were just starting out. Smart-a** answers may turn a newbie away from this forum. Not a good thing. Chuck
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