GlocknSchpiel

Jeeper, As the name implies, WD-40 is the 40th variation of a Water Dispersant. It WILL allow rust to form if some form of lubricant/protectant is not applied. A light coating of CLP has kept my AmmoMaster rust free even in the corrosive environment here in NJ (we're only 40 miles from the beach, er-um SHORE [southern transplant]) Later, Glockn...

TIS, I have to agree. We shoot 9mm's out to 130 yards, point-of-aim! Glockn... OOOOoooooppppssss, Phara, we must have posted at the same time. If I see this correctly, you can shoot the majority of the match with a 25 yard sight-in with only one stage at 50. Why shoot an entire match, sighted at 50, when you don't have to? Just practice the 50 yard hold and sight in for 25. Glockn... again,,,,,,,,,,

Sledgee, Not trying to be an smart-A__, but if you can keep a rifle in the truck, it seems that you can also keep a pair of ear-PLUGS (the ones that come in the little plastic box) attached to the sling (even with a rubber band). Don't modify the break. It's the super-sonic gasses escaping that cause the noise. If you modify, you'll still have the gasses coming out, but it'll be thru an inefficient comp. Later, Glockn...

TBF, Just a chance, are you running the 2003 Suite? If you are, the problem is probably the "Parental Guard". I had the same problem when I ran that "Suite". I didn't even install the PG but it got into the system during an update. The best that I can recommend is Uninstall the NAV and then Scan Disk,Quick Disk Cleanup , and Defrag. Then, reinstall ONLY the NAV portion and try registering again. After that, download Zone Alarm as your firewall. The combination works great on 98SE and 2000. Take care, Glockn...

It was a Drop-in. I did talk with Irv, but all he could do was ask that I send my G-17 to him. I don't think that I should spend $40 in S&H to get something fixed that shouldn't be broken. I am a toolmaker and have access to all kinds of Hi-Tech gadgets, like a "CMM" , and checked the chamber depth. It measured .023 too deep. I had way too many soft hits while using that bbl. Also, Irv stated that the chamber depth didn't matter and that a 9mm bbl with a 9x23 chamber would still group. In reality, all I got was scattered pattern. Hot, warm, light, lead, plated, or jacketed, 46 different loads and NONE would group. Like I stated before, all the diminsions that were supposed to be (according to the ad) tighter than stock, were actually smaller (read Undersize) allowing the bbl to wiggle slightly when in battery. Not even a well shot stock bbl did this. I would be suspicious of any product that Brownells has stopped carrying due to overwhelming returns due to poor quality. Maybe I would be more forgiving if someone at BarSto (IRV) would refund my money that I feel was wasted on their product, but the chances of that after 1.5 years of trying to get it to work are slim and NONE! I don't feel that I need to spend more on a product that is flawed and has already cost me an initial $185, plus all the cash outlaid for different powders, bullets, primers, and all the time that I spent trying to get it to work. BarSto built a name for themselves with the 1911 bbls that they used to make. Their QC has gone the way of the wind and I will never recommend or purchase another of their products. Sorry for the rant, but this topic pisses me off... Later, Glockn...

NO BARSTO!!!!! I have had no luck with the Tech Support with BarSto. I had one in my G-17 and nothing would group. Hot loads, light loads, NOTHING!!! My 12ga held a tighter pattern at 10 yards, LITERALLY! The specs state that the diminsions are "TIGHTER" than stock, BULL! All, save one, are .003- .015 loser than the stock glock barrel. The chamber is .023 too deep and out of spec. Don't waste your money on a Glock barrel from BarSto. Hell, Brownells doesn't even carry them any more due to the HIGH Return Rate. Look at KKM of even Federal, but stay away from BarSto!!! Later, Glockn...

If all you want to do is change the springs, That's SIMPLE!!! Pull the grips and look at the spring assy within the grip housing. You'll need a small nail or something similar. Now watch the spring as you cock the hammer. There is a small hole at the base of the hammer-spring strut. Put the nail in the hole and release the hammer slowly. The spring assy will now come out. NOTE: Watch the ORIENTATION of the spring/bar. Now just use your hands to compress the spring and remove the nail (this will allow everything to FLY er, um, come apart) again, watch the orientation. Change the spring to the one that you can get from Brownells or Wolff, and reassemble. That's all the difficult part. To get the action smooth, shoot or dryfire the hell out of it. Simple as that. Later and I hope this helps... Glockn...

Suches, Adrie's right! The ADJ is for the sights. The 3.5# connector MAY give you a 3.5# trigger but most likely not. If you get the internals polished, it MAY come down to 3.5#. The stock sights suck! I went with the Mec-Gar Adjustable's and a North Pass HiViz for the front and have NO REGRETS!!! Internal Tuning is allowed for IDPA as long as Safety and Safeties are maintained. For stock class, External changes include sights and Grip sleeves ONLY. You can do a bit more for ESP. Your G-34 fits into both classes. Best advice is, shoot a few thousand rounds thru it and then figure out what it needs. Otherwise you'll just be pissing money away. You may get some things right, but chances are.......... Later, Glockn...

George, I usually use Lapua brass for Benchrest (if that caliber is available), and "SAME" headstamp (different brand) for hunting rounds (I like accuracy and consistency), but for Run-n-Gun, mixed has produced decent results. The smoke that I was referring to wasn't coming out of the muzzle, it was the dark grey smoke coming out of the cylinder gap and blackening the cylinder, forcing cone, and my hands. I tried the "Same Headstamp" loads as a standard to compare the "Mixed" for consistency and accuracy. This was just the beginning of the search for the perfect load for that Revo. I used 38 brass this time as a "Test" as my goal is a Light Load in .357 brass (I don't like leading either, but I have to start somewhere). TBF, I've been reloading Rifle fodder for over 20 years with jacketed, but pistol ammo for only a few years and went with lead due the budget. I just tried the latest batch as an experiment to see what would happen. Old Rule-of-Thumb has been light loads of Fast powder with heavy bullet produces accuracy and light recoil. I am finding just the opposite. I am having to use slower powders like 231 and VV N-340 to get the presure spike duration long enough to either cycle the action or, in the case of the Revo, to reduce leading at slower velocities. As yet I have no Data that can back up this hypothesis, just two trips to the range and one match (IDPA). As a sidenote, I got PO'd and loaded some HOT 9mm's (+p+) for a match yesterday with N-320 and 125JHP's. I thought that I would never be able to get my G-17 to RUN, was I WRONG!!! It seems that I have stumbled onto the magic speed zone for the Glock and now all I have to do is find that zone for the rest of my HG's. I'll try and keep y'all posted with my findings as far as Presure vs. Leading, and with the loads that I am getting to work. Later and thanks for the help, Glockn...

TBF, I loaded some test rounds with a slower powder and the forcing-cone-leading all but disappeared (with 357 brass) and the loads in 38 brass, no leading at all. This time it had to do with Presure Spike duration and not hardness of the bullet. George, Guess what? The loads that I tried were 4.2gr and 4.4gr of 231 in both .357 and 38spc brass with the TNT Hardcast 158 gr RNFP. Big difference in recoil impulse (slower) and not as much muzzle rise. Out of the Ruger GP-100 4": load; Mixed brass, Rem 1-1/2 SP, TNT 158 RNFP Hard Cast, 4.2gr WW 231 825-860fps Rem Brass; ------------------ 820-835fps Mixed Brass 4.4gr WW231 840-890fps Rem Brass ------------------- 845-462fps I just had a few 357's loaded for giggles and the group was Open. The 25yd. groups with 38 brass ranged from 1.5" for Same Headstamp to 4" Mixed (4.4gr load) I must have one of the OLD bottles of 231 because the load was great but very Smoky and left my hands dark grey. I think that I need to separate headstamps and go with the 4.4 or warmer load in 38 brass. Thanks to all and I'm going to keep looking for the Perfect Load, Later, Glockn...

Norm and bhg, I have a pound of Unique and I'll have to give it a try. Thx George, I was using .357 brass. I have a few different loads for testing tomorrow with 231. .357 brass, Rem 1-1/2 SP, mixed brass, WW 231 4.2 and 4.4 gr. 38 Spc brass, all else same... I'll keep y'all posted with the results. The loads that I shot last night leaded the forcing cone and that tells me that the lead is too hard for the velocity that I'm trying to maintain (800fps - 850fps). I'm hoping that the 38 brass and WW 231 will cure the problem. Later, Bert

Hi all, I went to a practice session last night and tried a new load in the hope that it would be light and run. The results were crazy with 10yd patterns of 12" or more and recoil that was in the light Magnum range. This load was fired from a 4" SS Ruger GP-100 and due to the sonic crack (no chrono available at the match) I am guessing that the rounds were going in excess of 1100fps (super sonic and 173800 PF:o). 158gr LRNFP in front of 4.7gr TightGroup and Rem SP 1-1/2 primers. Brass was same headstamp and once fired. Does anyone have a favorite load with 158gr lead that they would like to share? It only has to make the 125pf for IDPA, but I need it for a Classifier this sunday. Sorry for the short notice! TIA, Glockn...

Scandog, I have several Kydex holsters, UM's, Blade-Tech, and Fobus, and none of them are adjustable. The only type that they are concerned with are the NEW type of holsters that have a "Swivle" mechanism built in to quickly allow someone to adjust it to the "SPEED POSITION". The LIMITS are not going to be set for another year and will not go into effect for yet another 12 months. It sounds like you're worring about things two years in advance. Take my advice, "Don't sweat the small stuff!" lol Later, Glockn...

Scandog, The Holster section is now FROZEN to allow the BoD to figure out which of the new adjustable holsters can be set to a muzzle-forward cant like most of the IPSC speed rigs. They are trying to keep the "RACING" to a minimum. After Jan, 2004, new holsters can be submitted for approval. We, at the local club, have known about this adjustable holster situation for nearly a year. Of course it helps that we have a BoD member as one of our occasional shooters. If you shoot an FBI cant (muzzle back by 15*) or a standard rig (vertical) and it's in the list, you don't have anything to worry about. Later, Glockn...

paraman1, I have two loads that shoot very well out of my 20" Bushy. 1. 26gr 748 behind 55gr SPBT Hornady, Rem SR Primer 2. 22.2gr 322, Same... Avg for both loads is aprox 2875 fps. The 748 load seems to be more accurate with 1.5" groups at 100 yds, Iron Sights. Glockn...

I hate to say it, but it almost sounds like a Badly FINISHED Chamber. Shine a light from the breach end and see if there is a SMOOTH or ROUGH finish in the chamber. As I don't have the rifle in front of me, this is only a guess. Take care and good luck, Glockn... OOooppss, Didn't see the last two pages before I posted, sorry! (Edited by GlocknSchpiel at 1:34 am on Mar. 10, 2003) (Edited by GlocknSchpiel at 1:35 am on Mar. 10, 2003)

AF, When you lighten the striking force of the hammer, you need to go to a Softer Primer. CCI primers are the Hardest while Federal are the Softest. This is where it gets tricky because of the Legal Formalities. The reloading industry, due to primers going off in the press, recommend usually CCI or Winchester because Remington and Federal are too SOFT! So far, I have been lucky and NOT had an ND in the press. One reason for this is because I hand prime. I use Remington primers for now, but as soon as this batch is gone (another 11,000) I'm switching to Federal. Federal Primers are soft enough that if you sneeze (exageration) while inserting them, they will go bang. Synops. If you're going to shoot a light trigger, use Federal Primers. Disclaimer: I don't work for in any Firearm related industry. The above is just my opinion and therefore should be taken with caution, as with ALL opinions. In follow my recommendations, remember that you do so at your own risk. Research the topic and make an educated decision. Hope this helps. Glockn... (Edited by GlocknSchpiel at 4:22 pm on Mar. 8, 2003)

Hawker, With the limited info given, it would be close to impossible to guesstimate the PF for that load. There are many variables that can effect TRUE PF. What are you shooting these rounds from? What Primer? The amount of crimp. The Brand of bullet (different Co's have different shaped bullets in the same weight, this can effect the amount of bullet actually Inside the case). The best Guestimate would be from where ever you got the initial load data. Might be best if you can find someone local with a Chrono and send a few downrange thru it. This will give you the best and most accurate results. >sorry for the DRY Tone, this is not a flame message< Take care, Glockn...

phara, It may be as Brian stated, but it could be that the New rounds are softer than the old brand that you were using. If that's the case, you may want to try backing off the velocity to around or below 1000fps. You may be working with swaged bullets that are SOFT!!! Hope this helps, Glockn... PS to BE. GREAT site! (Edited by GlocknSchpiel at 4:57 pm on Mar. 5, 2003)

I'm assuming that TIS is correct in assuming SSP. He is 100% correct. You MUST be reloading behind cover (if available) and the Magazine Must be fully seated and the slide closed before you move. Failure to be "FULLY RELOADED" can result in a Procedural or FTDR Penalty. You do not have to Decock after a reload. Glockn...