mike cyrwus
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Posts posted by mike cyrwus
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tooth, that thing looks like a 19th century implement of torture. lol. and Im not just saying that because Mark did already.
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ah, this is why you are texting slow this afternoon..
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Ummm, been running a rear sight on my shotguns since 1975!!! Wanna know where the idea of a 10-22 rear sight came from??? Well....yeah....humbly.... ME....in 1996!!!!!!
I aint seen one on yours in a while, dood.
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I only really trust the .45acp or .38 sup ones with ramped barrels
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no, but if it was made in the last 1.5 or so years, your prob safe
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great idea, securing it from the top; thats where its going to tip.
We have rocky soil though. How thick is your rebar, and about how much is underground, 10"-ish?
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6" or 6'?
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Mark, You have any photos of how you stake your barrels?
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youll be there a year dehorning with 400 grit. throw that puppy in a vise and go to town shoeshining with 220-280 grit 3m or norton abrasive shop rolls.
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couple things,
the grips are pretty, but I cant imagine very practical. just my .02.
the router table thing for the rails is pretty cool.
but mostly, use that dremel table on your thumbnail; that scared the hell out of me.
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show me a video of that thing pulling 1.4 and Ill believe it.
I am really intrigued about the trigger feeling like a 1911; I dont think anyone has ever made that claim about a striker fired gun before.
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I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.
Theres only one way to control the trigger; the right way. You include much of that in the sentence above. You can do all those things and have .018 splits if you get the whole picture. That first sentence you wrote; you do that all during dead time, during the draw, or the recoil cycle. get that done there, and youll be ready to shoot faster than you can possibly be ready.
I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.
Pre-travel is only a small part of the trigger's characteristic. Its not usually a limiting one.
Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?
You control your sights with your grip, your sights control your trigger, and vice versa.
As a guy who makes his living working on guns and doing triggers, thow yourself a 3.5# connector in your glock and seek out training. Good solid pistol fundamental skills; trigger control, sight alignment, grip, stance, follow through. it will be the best money you spend in this endeavor.
Most importantly, vet your information. especially on this forum and on social media. See who stands to gain based on their recommendations. Its getting to be like amway out here.
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This is the topic of an article coming soon to 3GN magazine.
Im still trying to get through the one on stretching
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thats the shell drop lever. Its job is not to allow you to lock the bolt back, its to throw a shell from the tube onto the carrier. It only locks back because its empty. I think your problem is with the shell latch all along. When you remove and replace the trigger group, always depress the bolt release so that you get the shell latch out of the way and in proper orientation with the drop lever and carrier.
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Tim "Dead Blow" Ubl clears it right up. Hey got a quarter?
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Austin how big is the illum dot when its on 7?
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i re-read your post, you might have a bunch of crud behind your extractor; drip some gun solvent around the extractor, work it thru its range of motion a bunch of times, and blow it clean with compressed air. then do it with some oil til it comes out clean.
-Or remove the extractor and clean it up.
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Id almost guarantee you arent sizing your brass far down enough, or you got some nasty doozies of an example of range brass. chamber check em if its for a match, youll catch them. Otherwise keep shooting them in practice and work on malf drills.
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Yes Kurt did!
kurt is awesome.
(my quarterly tribute to him)
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there are spacers in there. If you want light, toss the buffer and superglue a quarter to the end of the buffer tube.
good god, this is a joke. wheres the "sarcasm" button?
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One sight picture and 2 trigger manipulations is nothing more than one aimed shot and one unaimed shot. Even with .15 rifle splits there is time to see the sights and call your shots. Shooting the rifle is the same as shooting the pistol in that respect, the main difference functionally is that the sights will most likely not leave the target during recoil so your splits are that much faster. When you are shooting on the move is when Calling your shots and seeing your sights will pay the biggest dividend with the rifle.
yee ha! some good info on enos.
just because your gun is 5 pounds heavier and has a magnified optic doesnt mean you can or should slap on it like a 94% master class shooter running can you count..
If you cant hose a pistol like a boss on a pistol stage and throw down a m-gm type hit factor, dont try to do it with a rifle.
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there are spacers in there. If you want light, toss the buffer and superglue a quarter to the end of the buffer tube.
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the guns mounted to you while your shooting. Mounted to your body; upper body specifically. neither hand nor shoulder will drive the gun while its attached to your body.
Use your upper body to drive the gun. Move and adjust at the waist.
Remember, eyes first.
Are you running a rear sight?
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
On a properly fit shotgun, your eye should be exactly in line with the plane of the top of the vent rib, or so my opinion goes..
Any good rear sight is one that gives you more of a reference point for keeping your front sight/bead right on the top center of the vent rib, right where it belongs.