vince

I think you`ll be pretty happy with it. The money you`ll save can go towards other reloading stuff. Now who doesn`t love that

Just this past week, i bought another LNL AP to add to my bench. (i`ve been a hornady buyer even way back when it was Pacific reloading, yeah, i`m that old) I dialed in my load on this new LNL AP, banged out 500 rounds of 9mm with zero issues the first night i had it mounted to the bench. The press came already dialed in on the pawls right from hornady, and it couldnt have been more perfectly timed, hornady did a great job assembling and setting up this press from the factory. I set-up the priming system slide, (ww wsp primers) ran flawless, zero hiccups zero stoppages in 500 rounds, other than refilling with more primers and bullets. Pay no attention to some of the youfoolers (youtube) that tell you how to center the primer system... it needs to run a few thousandth`s past center to work perfect. When the machine is new, it runs a little and some of you are getting into trouble real quick because you dont understand it. Some of you are tinkering way more than you need to. Go a smidgen past center, it will begin wear in a little bit and come more centered as it wears in from new. Yes, you`ll have to re-adjust it maybe once after you`ve run it awhile. Everything has to take a set, then it will settle down. Yup, even the dillon`s have to settle down. Every press does. Its nature of the beasts. No press is 100% perfect. Every press is going to NEED a little TLC once in awhile. Yup, even a dillon needs some TLC too. One thing people seem to overlook, every time, is the shell plate. (whyyyyyyyyyy, is this ALWAYS overlooked?!?!?! It should be one of the first things looked at when problems arise in timing) Ok, keep in mind, i know of no written spec`s for the ball bearing seating depths, i`m just going off from past years experience with hornady progressive presses. Remove your shell plate from the press, then flip the shell plate over, and make sure the detente ball bearings aren`t pushing out to far out of the shell plate with to much spring pressure under the ball bearing. If they are pushing out to far with alot of spring pressure behind them, it will cause alot of UNNECESSARY drag while rotating. (a hard dragging shell plate can give you false understandings of whats actually going on) If the shell plate is dragging to hard, this will also cause your shell plate to jump harder, which some of us know, as case/powder jumping while indexing. The fix for the ball bearings is to punch the ball bearings back into the shell plate a little deeper with a brass punch from the under side of the shell plate. Now flip the shell plate over and look at the top of it where the black bearing covers are. Make sure they are flush (or just slightly under) to the top of the shell plate. If they look to high, or above the shell plate surface, you punched them to deep. Take your punch and with a hammer, tap them just a tiny bit below the top of the shell plate surface. You should be real close to having a perfect indexing shell plate. Feel free to play with it a little. No 2 presses are equally the same. (nope, not even dillon is THAT good, nobody is) There is absolutely no need for the shell plate to drag and then jump hard into its detentes. Consider it when the shell plate is moving all those cases during its indexing process, that creates ALOT of drag too. So we need the shell plate to move as smooth and freely as possible. Clean your sub-plate, put a tiny small dab of white lithium grease in the detente pockets, place a film of white lithium between the contact points of the shell plate and sub-plate, install the shell plate, WITHOUT the shell plate spring. Now check for rotational indexing and timing. If the shell plate still jumps hard, move the bearings a little bit more. This usually fixes the LNL AP, as long as you`ve followed the instructions in the manual for setting the pawl timing. Dont forget to make sure you put the shell plate spring back down into its groove in the sub-plate once your happy with its smoother indexing. This method i just wrote out here, will make the indexing MUCH smoother, and stops the case/powder jumping. At the least, it will cut the jumping down by 50% or in most cases, eliminate it all together. Most people are not mechanically minded, so i dont expect everybody who own/bought a Horandy LNL AP press to understand them enough to know how to make them run flawless. I`ve never seen a LNL AP i couldnt fix, or make run 100% flawless, after somebody messed it up. I still have AND use the first Hornady Pro-Jector press i bought over 30yrs ago, and it still runs flawless as the day i bought it new. In 30yrs, i`ve adjusted the timing twice. And thats after 30+yrs of loading on it. I have a 3 pound coffee can that is over flowing with spent primers, and i`m filling my second 3 pound coffee can, and it too, is almost running over wit spent primers... so that will tell you how many rounds that press has loaded in that length of time. Thats quite a few spent primers to be able to fill 2 three pound coffee cans. Now i need to put another can under the bench for my other presses. Guess i better go make more coffee, cause i need more cans to catch my spent primers. Hornady`s warranty? Well, i finally had to call them after 30+yrs. This was the first time i have ever had to call Hornady for anything. I`ve never had to in the past because their products work fine for me. BUT anyhow, i called them to ask them why the powder measure hopper was so cloudy with this latest LNL AP press, couldnt see the powder thru it very clearly. So i wanted them to replace it because i thought i got a bad one. So, this is what i was told... the NEW powder hoppers are made from a different product than all shiny clear earlier ones previously. Supposedly, this NEW material they are now using, are supposedly not as quickly effected by powders like the earlier hoppers were. We`ll see. But nonethless, Hornady sent me out another hopper free of charge to take care of one of my other powder measure hoppers that was starting to become loose from age. Pretty darn nice of them to do that for me. The people in CS were absolutely polite, seemed to care about my questions. When they directed my call to a tech, super nice guy. No questions asked, just asked me for my address and sent me a brand new hopper free of charge to my door. I would say hornady pretty much has a NO BS warranty as well. Sorry for the long rant guys... i just think some things really needed addressing. vince

Wow, i`ve had zero issues with the hornady bullet feeder dies. Have them on all my presses. (9mm 357 40cal 44mag 45acp). I`ve run numerous Lead - Plated - Jacketed, and have had zero issues. Simple quick adjustment, never a hiccup during reloading. I guess i dont see where the problem is with the product itself. Its hardly complicated. I followed their instructions, and they work perfectly fine, for me. The only thing i`ve found, was if i load the tube full of 9mm 147gr & 357 158gr bullets, sometimes it pops one out of the die just before i put the last 4 or 5 in the tube. So, i put a empty case in the press, raise the shell plate up to the top, the empty case holds the bullets right there until i`m done putting the last few bullets in the tube. I dunno, maybe the problem is more with the indian`s, and not the arrow`s.

Yeah i`ve seen it cheaper, just not where i live. It averages around $12 $13. Most of the gun shops around me gouge their customers here pretty hard.

I dont recommend graphite for case lube. There is only one that i use that is the same as what the hornady case lube is, except its about a 1/4 of the price as the hornady (5.5oz) labeled brand and you get alot more from the LW 11oz can. You can get it most anywhere, even in walmart in the RV section in the automotive departments. It is the LiquidWrench RV Dry-Lube 11oz can. Dont mistake it for the regular dry-lube, its NOT the same, and dont buy the PB Blaster dri-lube either, its not the same ingredients. Most contain silicone, the LW RV Dry-Lube does not. The LW RV Dri-lube is the only one that is the same as what hornady sells. LW RV dosent effect your powder. I`ll try to up load a picture of the exact one i only use for reloading lube. I also use it on all my recoil springs in ALL my guns. I toss a shot of it down inside my mags too. Help the mags work more freely. LiquidWrench RV Dry Lubricant "Specifically Formulated For RV Slide-out`s" Here is what Hornady sells people for $16 buck a can, and its only a small 5.5oz can, which dosent go very far. With the LW RV Dry-Lube, you can buy 4 cans of it for what your getting out of the hornady brand, which is the same stuff, for $4 buck a can.

I`ve used them all, and i keep going back to the hornady powder measure`s. For some people, its hard for them to set it up. Its not at all hard to set up, if you understand the concept of how it works. It is also the most accurate and consistent powder measure i`ve ever used on a progressive press. It stays where you put it, and zero powder falls out of it, (unlike some brands we know). The hornady powder measure is not fussy about what powder you run in it either. Best to also use a powder baffle too. The biggest gripe i`ve got with hornady, is that they dont polish there PTX powder die`s. If you dont polish it where the case gets expanded, the cases hang up terrible and cause you to use excessive force to pull it down off the expander. I also use a dri-lube too. Dump my brass in a gallon zip-lock, spray the cases, roll the bag around, dump the cases on the bench, let them dry for 10 or 15 mins, start loading them. The dri-lube makes my cases run thru my loader as if you were slipping on ice. Super smooth loading with no reloading effort. If your working harder, your not working smarter.

Thank you for the information 4n2t0, very helpful. My OAL is 1.140 and my rounds plunk good in all my guns with exception to my M&P`s. Looks like i`ll have to load the next ones at around 1.130 and see what that feels like. I can just slightly feel the ones at 1.140 are just starting to hit the rifle lands in the M&P barrels, so i will reload the next rounds a little deeper in the cases @ 1.130 I think i`m good with the crimp. They are all at .379 diameter and they pass the plunk test, and they also pass inspection in my Dillon case gauge ok too. Another person i spoke with, said 4.0gr CFE-Pistol was the sweet spot for him with the 147gr FP plated bullets. But that was with his pistols, not mine, so we`ll see how they work, for me. I do have a good chronograph, so i`ll be looking at that information and determine from there. I`m hoping for something around 875 to 900fps. That`s my goal anyway. Hopefully, this load will knock some steels pretty decent. "spikiness" I was referring to how hot Titegroup powder can run pretty hot. I do use TG in my 45acp loads, and its a tack driver, but it can run hot, in my opinion. And TG loaded up a little stout, the recoil is pretty sharp. I dont get any of that with the CFE Pistol powder. CFE burns clean, little softer recoil, but not as accurate in my 45`s. I`ve got a bunch of CFE loads for my 9mm guns, and the CFE just drives my 124gr bullet`s right in the bullseye all day long. So i thought why not use up these 147`s w/CFE. What most of this all comes down to for me, is that i have way to many different powders sitting around. I would like to start eliminating alot of it and get it down to where i have just a couple 2 or 3 types of powder. My main powders i seem to use all the time (and i like) are TG and CFE just for my pistols. I`m already down to 3 different rifle powders... IMR8208XBR ARcomp CFE223. I`ve got other powders here that i haven`t even touched in over 30yrs. So this is where the CFE Pistol powder comes in at to use it for these 147gr plated bullets. I dont want to go buy other powders just to try them out and find out they dont work well for me, and then THAT powder sits uselessly. Just trying to consolidate and conserve, but still have good accurate loads with what i have.

Happy Birthday to me... another Hornady LNL AP press on the bench. Couple hours from mounting it to making loads. Runs 100% flawless, just like my other ones do. I installed the Hornady bullet feeder die... the one with the tube you have to fill. Cleaned the powder measure, wiped EEZOX on it to keep the flash rust away from the drum. Now off to the shop to build another case feeder system for the latest new LNL AP press. I opted NOT to buy the Hornady case & bullet feeders, they seem to be garbage in my opinion.

They were all i shot for a long time, but can`t seem to get my local dealer to get off his butt and order more of them. If there are places i can buy them online, i sure would like to find it. I shoot ALOT of the Frontier plated. No leading issues at all in my comped guns. Accuracy was very good. Product consistency was actually really good in every shipment of 9mm & 45cal bullets i`ve ever bought. I dont think they are made in the USA. As another poster said, be cautious with crimping, as Frontiers bullets are pretty soft. The plating seems pretty decent. I`ve recovered several after shooting them, and are all intact. I plowed some into a dirt pile, recovered them, some of the plating gone, but was expected. If you can find them, shoot`em! They are pretty good cheap bullets to load and shoot. I wish i could find them again.

Hello, new to the BE forum, but surely not new to reloading. But i have a question... I`ve got a bunch of 147gr Plated FLAT POINT bullets given to me. They measure averagely .355/5 None have measured .356, all are just under .356 I`m looking for complete load data for CFE-Pistol powder, looking for min/max load data. (using winchester SP primers) I have searched all over the internet for load data, not seeing alot of data for the plated 147gr flat point bullets using CFE-Pistol powder. Lots of info for jacketed, but not plated. And what do you guys run your OAL at with the 147gr Plated Flat Point at. I`ve seen this number all over the place... seems there is alotta opinions on this OAL w/147gr Flat Point bullets. EDIT: I forgot to ask about bullet/case crimp. What do you guys prefer in the diameter (i`ve been running .378/.379 average) I have some other pistol powders, but i want to use the CFE-Pistol powder because i have a bunch of it. My next choice of powder to try is titegroup, but i dont like the spikiness that can happen with this powder. How do you folks like the "Power Pistol" "Sport Pistol" powder (?) I have never tried it before, but i see people chat often about it. Guns i`m using these bullets in, are: Sig: P365 Glock 43 26 19 M&P: Performance Center Shield 9 and a fullsize 5inch 9L (Both guns have OEM Ported Barrels) Any pet loads you guys have, sure would like to see them if you`d like to share. Thank you guys PS... lurked around BE site for a long time, lot of great info! Decided i finally needed to join y`all.