MountainMan

Wait is that the front or back? If that’s the front, it auto aligns with the primer pin coming down into the hole at the very front of the primer slideIf that’s the front, it auto aligns with the primer pin coming down into the hole at the very front of the primer slide

It’s the set screw at the back that sets the stop point

Ah, you are cycling by hand, sorry I didn't realize that. Have you confirmed primers are coming up sideways already, then?

And those circular marks on the slide top....are those impressions made by the primer tube? your primer tube should not be touching the top of the slide, perhaps there is an issue with the gap between the bottom of the primer tube and the top of the primer shuttle. Those brush-type striations are actually normal. that's the result of the undersurface of the primer riding along the shuttle top as the shuttle moves back and forth. I can't recall the exact nature of the assembly now, it's been a couple years since I had that system....

Mark, I had the issue also. I have since moved up to the automated priming system, but I struggled with the original priming system on my Evo for many hours. Honestly it's a temperamental system. Are you also having jams of primers in and above the primer slide, under that plastic cap, etc? Are you having any other issues, besides this? Often multiple issues are from one problem, so that can sometimes help source the problem. Have you tested to see if this priming issue is correlated with press speed? One source for canted primers was that they never settled into the cup quite right, and if the hole in the shuttle doesn't align properly with the bottom of the primer tube as it moves back, the primers from the tube won't drop in quite right. That set screw at the end of the primer shuttle adjusts that stopping point. If it stops too early or too late, it won't allow the primer to drop into the cup properly. Speed affects this also, so the faster it goes the more problematic any mis-collimation will be...in my experience. What is your cycle speed? Empty your primer tube, and shine a bright light down along the top of the shuttle as you look down the primer tube. With the proper lighting, you should be able to see the hole (primer cup in the shuttle) line up at the end of the primer tube. This is with the toolhead “up” at the end/beginning of cycle, of course. You can move the shuttle by hand back and forth. If I recall, Mark 7 says the primer shuttle should go just a tad 'beyond' the hole properly, for optimal timing of the primer drop into the cup. So, actually, they shouldn't be exactly collimated but the primer slide's hole just a tad beyond the bottom of the tube, per mark 7. Here's a very NON-Mark 7 endorsed tactic: Because it's an intermittent issue, I would run without cases at the slowest speed after making any adjustments, and observe if any primers come up sideways on the primer punch. If you set the dwell right, you can set it slow enough that you have plenty of time and can actually remove each primer from the punch by hand or with a small medical-type clamp. I used a mosquito-clamp to which I'd epoxied a small thin piece of EVA (spongy rubber type material) on each clamp face, so when i grabbed the primer that ensured I would not damage it or dent it with the clamp. I kept the stop switch in my other hand to stop the press if I dropped it, etc. But there was plenty of time. If you do 100 cycles without sideways primers, up the speed but keep the bottom dwell prolonged to continue the assessment until you get to your usual speed. Other causes: Keep all the cases that suffer this issue. I see your example is Blazer brass, which I've found to be pretty good. But sometimes you'll get some WMA cases with stiff swaged pockets that don't always swage out adequately. That sometimes causes problems. Primer slide chatter. if you remove your primer tube assembly etc so you can move the slide back and forth in the channel, you may feel it 'chatter' a bit. See if there are any crude mill marks on the side of the channel. If so, you might try polishing those. But not too much...don't try to grind them perfectly flat, or you will remove too much metal and get too much side to side play in the primer slide, making the problem worse. Then you'll need a replacement assembly ($). Lastly, make sure everything is tight on the primer assembly. All screws, etc. And that the primer tube isn't actually bent, and/or the end of the tube marred or knicked, this can retard primer drop making them hang briefly and tilt as they drop. Take the tube out and roll it on a flat surface. If it's not perfectly straight that will show it. While I don't think it's the main cause for your sideways primers, I'll echo Baragasam above rec for hold down dies and a snug shellplate. That is a common cause for variable primer seating. I use a resizing die at Priming and Swaging (with decap assembly out, obviously) to ensure this. I tried using a modified Dillon swage back rod, but that held the case down by pushing on the inside bottom, right at the primer flash hole. I use mixed variably fired brass and every case is different, and that just wasn't working, as each case base height was slightly different. Some wouldn't be held down enough, and others would hang the press and shut it down. So holding the case down by the walls, as a resizing die does, is the best I think. I screw it down the same way I would set up at the actual resizing station, so the die just barely touches the shellplate.... But, again, those issues are not causing a sideways primer.

Has anyone had the spring for the primer seating punch jam the rocker and fail to return the primer punch back down? If so is there a fix out there, a spring upgrade or something? Every so often the primer punch doesn't return fully, and I think it's the spring...it's compressed and stuck, and I push the primer punch back down and turn the spring 90 degrees or so and it'll work again for another 5k rounds until it happens again. I've removed and cleaned it, greased the rocker and the spring (but not so high that the grease can get on the primers) and this problem still occurs from time to time.

What scale measures to 0.01 grain? I have that gem pro I picked up at UniqueTek and I thought that was accurate....it goes to 0.02 graduations....

If the plunger doesn’t advance all the way, is the powder drop any less consistent ? I haven’t had these bolts work loose..... but now I will go double check.....carefully...

I have the same issue but can’t get consisten primer seating with using dies to hold down the shellplate . I’ve a new plate from Mark 7 coming.

thank you. That’s reassuring. I can’t visualize who you measure this.... you are measuring deflection of the toolbars or the shell plate?

MG08, what caliber is this? In my experience most priming issues on the 1050 were small primers. when you say one out of 100 cases it’s not being primed, are you seeing where a primer is falling out of the priming system? Are apparently I damaged primers strewn about the deck around the priming station? Are they being crushed and smeared? Are they getting stuck under the white nylon tab between the primer stack and the station? Or Are they not appearing anywhere on the press or counter around it implying that it’s not even making it into the primer cup to begin with (this is actually rare). you should also carefully align the primer slide stop point using that screw on the back. It needs to stop in just the right position for primer to fall into the hole properly. A little bit of worn metal, it might be going to far or not far enough, and a primer can’t reliably drop straight in and might explain your issue. Taking a metal rod roughly the same diameter as a primer and running it down the empty primer stack tube and see if it drops into the primer slide cup. Or , take off the plastic tab that covers the gap between the Stack and the Station, and shine a very bright light towards the bottom of the primer stack. Then look straight down the empty primer stack tube and you should actually see the primer slide’s cup lined up concentrically under that primer stack tube. If it’s too far in or out, adjust. I think I recall some Dillon recommendation that the cup should stop actually be just a little Tiny bit beyond the bottom of the primer stack, not exactly stopping underneath it, for the best primer fall result. I would also recommend that you keep every case that fails to prime and check the primer pocket with a primer pocket gauge. Sometimes you discover that it’s only several types of head stamps that caused the problem. For example, for 9mm at least, there is lots of this WCC military like crap case that has a difficult to swage primer pocket. If all your issues are with a given case, then it’s the brass. In my experience this usually results in a primer being trapped (And typically crushes etc) under the tab on the slide return phase of the cycle, Because the primer was unable to be properly seated and was then tilted or canted on the primer punch as it came back down and didn’t retract fully into the slide cup. if that’s occurring, please also check that your swage is set right. I sold my 1050 after 10 years but I can tell you that the swage station is in my opinion the least well documented and communicated part of this product. Follow those directions carefully and also cut a case in half so you can set the swage depth visually. if you are hand cycling, then I would remove all cases, put 100 primers in your stack, and cycle the press as you normally would, and remove (carefully) each primer as it’s projected up through the shell plate. I used a plastic tweezers. If you get through 100 cycles and you have not had a single failure to present a primer, then do another hundred, and if you have 200 apparently normal primer presentations, the problem is probably NOT upstream from that point. It’s more likely to be the seating of the primer in a bad case, a rough or damaged primer punch (inspect) etc. If it’s an issue seating the primer inspect and see how much flex there is during seating .consider a ”back up” die at priming. Something prevent the shellplate and case from rising up As the primer is seated. Yes, if your shellplate is tight enough it should not happen but the extractor groove varies on every case, and every press and shellplate is slightly unique. I used a resizing due with the decap pin removed but then the expander function performed at swage was negated. It was OK for me because i actually expanded at the powder drop. Others have used a undersize swage back up rod, for example 32 caliber if you’re doing 9 mm, the the case is then being held down right above the primer flash hole on the base.. Still others have used a lee expander die plug which like the resizing die hold the case at the neck and body not the inside base. And I recall there was actually a guy selling modified hex bolts that served the same function. good luck. I sold my 1050 after many years and exchanged all my old problems for new problems with an Evolution......

Here’s a better image

How worn (how many rounds made?) was the 1050? my new press, 100k round later, ended up with priming problems, it seemed like a timing problem, and then I realized that after 100,000 rounds (40k with automation), the metal groove in the spring arm assembly had worn down, screwing up the timing. Replaced. fixed. Sorry I found My post on the other form but I can’t find my original picture and it has this photo bucket logo across it. But if you look at that groove in which that cam arm moves, you can see that it’s worn wider on the old one compared to new. Check yours and if worn, replace it.

My primer punch would sometimes stick up and it was the spring coils locking together. New spring fixed it. Keep it lubed. My shellplate would sometimes loosen up also Despite those set screws. In fact lots of screws and bolts can loosen up over time. Really should a formal ‘pre-flight’ checklist before each session on where to lube, tighten etc. I now use a feeler gauge to check the space between the bottom of shellplate and top of the deck, before each session. 0.008-0.010” seems to be the sweet spot. To much and, as u say, there is too much play leading to OAL variations and sometimes high primers. Back up dies help reduce that risk also and I use them at swage and at priming and at the primer orientation station.

I now have the automated primer collator. I had occasional sideways primers that was apparently due to some chattery milling marks on the primer collator bowl, as the issue resolved after I smoothed those out per Mark7 support suggestions. i was experiencing variable primer heights using mixed brass. Other than the obvious primer seating depth adjustment bolt setting, the other items I’ve found that impact primer seating variability include the shellplate lock nut position, and the use and depth of a primer seating station hold down die. Both of these factors are noted by Mark 7 recommendations obviously. for the shellplate, I found it needs to be much tighter than what the 1050 was. I can just barely move it by hand when the shellplate is “cleared’ by the so-named tablet screen button. I found that by tightening the nut until a 0.008” feeler gauge just fits under the shellplate seemed to be the right tightness (measured at the last station where the undersurface is easily accessible where finished rounds drop off the shellplate). also I was using a resizing die with the center decap insert removed....I actually use a U die (9mm)...and unless it’s fully screwed down, the shellplate flexes variably (mixed brass) leading to variable primer depths. this setup requires lubed cases and some experimentation with clutch settings....I use One shot to lube the cases and my clutch setting is 4. has anyone else experience or advice to offer? Things are running pretty smoothly now for me, I’m satisfied.

The problem I had involved the primer not seating properly perhaps due to a punch issue and then being Brought back half-canted or so in the slide cup and catching against the tab or the stack assembly and stopping the press. I contrived some covers like you made (mine were obviously far less elegant!) with no effect on this problem. After some back and forth I sent the press back for a thorough inspection hopefully they will find the root cause and fix...

Thank you. I’m very interested in hearing your results..

Is this newer measure more consistent? my Mark7 mechanical measure wasn’t very consistent. I’ve installed a Dillon powder measure and jury-rigged the failsafe rod to the opening where the large spring was (which I removed with the auto drive in operation). The Dillon measure is within 0.1 grain for Titegroup. Hoping Mark7 fixes that issue.

FYI Sources of exposure — The majority of adult elevated BLL come from workplace exposures . Exposure can occur in numerous work settings, such as manufacturing or use of batteries, pigments, solder, ammunitions, paint, car radiators, cable and wires, some cosmetics, ceramic ware with lead glazes, and tin cans. Primary and secondary lead smelting and refinement are associated with considerable exposure. Mass lead intoxication has been reported for both children and adults living around and working in lead battery manufacturing/recycling plants and artisanal gold mining, particularly in low-income countries Other sources of exposure include: ●Gasoline – An organic form of lead (tetraethyl lead) was added to gasoline to raise the octane level and to serve as an "antiknock" agent in the 1920s. It has been estimated that 90 percent of atmospheric lead originated from automobile exhaust and accounted for the increase in environmental lead concentrations observed between the 1930s and 1960s. The introduction of lead-free gasoline in the 1980s contributed to a considerable decrease in air lead levels in the United States and consequently BLL. Use of leaded gasoline has declined worldwide, particularly in the industrialized countries, but it is still used in aviation and racing cars and may still be used in conventional automobiles in some countries. ●Paint – The use of lead paint has resulted in lead exposures at work in the construction trades, as well as in the home, thereby posing a lead poisoning risk to children. The lead content of paint in the United States was unregulated until 1977. In 2000, it was estimated that about one million construction workers in the United States were occupationally exposed to lead. In addition to coating residential properties, lead paint also covers five billion square feet of nonresidential surface area in the United States, including 89 percent of the nation's steel bridges. Lead from paint can also enter the environment and increase soil lead levels when natural disasters destroy homes as in the case of Hurricane Katrina in 2005. ●Moonshine – In some parts of the United States, illegally distilled alcohol ("moonshine") is an important source of lead exposure. In a study from an emergency department in Atlanta, the median blood lead level in drinkers of moonshine was significantly higher than in nondrinkers, 11.0 versus 2.5 mcg/dL (0.53 versus 0.12 micromol/L); the percentage of patients with BLL ≥25 mcg/dL (1.21 micromol/L) was higher as well (25.7 versus 0 percent). ●Bullets – Lead exposure can also occur at indoor and outdoor firing ranges due to the use of leaded bullets. Consuming wild game may also lead to lead exposure if the game was hunted using lead bullets. ●Cosmetics – Litargirio (also known as litharge or lead monoxide), a lead-based powder sold and used in some Hispanic communities as an antiperspirant/deodorant and as a folk remedy, has also caused lead poisoning, as has the use of tiro, an eye cosmetic from Nigeria. ●Herbal remedies/supplements – Lead poisoning has occurred in those taking Ayurvedic medications (a tradition of alternative medicine with roots in the Indian subcontinent), including during pregnancy. Women who reported using herbal supplements had BLL 10 percent higher than non-users, although mean lead levels were low in both groups (<2.0 mcg/dL [0.97 micromol/L]). BLL were about 20 percent higher for those women reporting use of Ayurvedic and/or traditional Chinese medicine herbs, as well as St. John's wort, compared with non-users. ●Cookware – Lead poisoning has been associated with cooking or eating off of lead-glazed tableware and cookware. ●Lead dust – Lead dust deposited on radiographs and stored in lead-lined boxes can lead to lead exposure. A study performed by the Wisconsin Division of Public health found that patients are at risk for substantial lead exposure during a dental radiograph if the office stores the films in these boxes. ●Other – Lead has also been found as an adulterant in marijuana, candy, lipstick, and other consumer products. Lead contamination is a risk that can be associated with a wide variety of production processes.

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Ok thanks. So these retain their value well.... This guy told me to offer him a fair bit discounted price and he’d sell it to me, he admitted he had not researched fair value yet and hopes for a quick low effort sale. He’s a casual club shooting acquaintance and I want to be fair but obviously not overpay. I’ve had a 550b for 10+ years. Approximate out the door new 1050 on Dillon website with comparable accessories to his setup would be ~$2250, with 9mm dies and a powder check sensor (which he said he never used?) and spare part kit and he has extra pins, springs split rings, tips etc all the stuff he said you go through fairly often. Would $1500 be fair? $1750?

Just curious, so what’s a reasonable price for a used but well maintained Super 1050? As I read this thread, is $1000 about right? I’ve an acquaintance selling one as he’s buying a Mark 7 press, it’s about 8-9 years old, maybe 200k round on it, he said he’d had it refurbished at Dillon, it’s back to stock more or less with all the worn parts replaced. Comes with 9mm setup and dies and all his spare parts. MM