aggie dad

Eric, thanks for the link; I will try that test once I get my rod/springs. Just seems that I heard some where that lighter springs are generally better when using lighter reloads. Since I am shooting 9mm factory ammo, thought it would be safer/more reliable with springs in the 15-17# range. Well, its easy enough to order the lighter ones if these don't function well.

I just ordered a wolf rod and the 15,16, 17# springs for my 34. Generally shoot wwb or blazer, so I am thinking the 16# might be a good match with factory ammo and hopefully it will help a little with muzzle flip. I guess I will need to experiment with the springs, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or caveates as to spring rate when shooting factory ammo? Thanks, Doug

This thread has really helped me a lot, as I have only been shooting for a few months and was using the grip that bw1 intially described. It felt to me like I was doing something wrong, but I wasn't sure what? Now when I move my left hand more forward and align the tip of my right thumb with the base of my left thumb, and have a more cocked/locked left wrist, I am feeling so much more solid and able to hold steady. I can't wait to get out to the range and try this proper grip. In the mean time, need to reprogram that muscle memory. The other thing that was happening to me with the old grip, the recoil/muzzle flip was causing the boat tail to bang against the knuckle of my right thumb where the thumb joins the hand and it was starting to feel like I was getting a bone bruise. Thanks Doug

WildWest, Which brand of Tungsten rod was giving you a problem? I was planning to add a THE captured, but am curious if folks are having problems with these. Wonder if the THE with the Wolf recoil spring would be a good way to go. Doug

Thanks SRT, thats exactly the info I was looking for and I happen to have some slide glide and will use that when I install the kit. Oiling these particular parts was something that Ralph's instructions specified. Clay, as to general glock cleaning, after a trip to the range, I always do a field strip and clean with M Pro 7 and use one drop of Miltec oil on each of the recommended spots. I must say that I do not like the needle oiler that came with the Miltec; when turning the bottle upside down it leaks from the cap. Also, have heard a lot of positive comments on Gun Butter as Bugs recommends. Thanks, Doug

I received my kit, but have not installed it yet. As noted above it sure does have quite a well polished surface. Is there any particular type of oil or lube recommended for connector/trigger bar/safety plunger? Also, how frequently do these parts need to be oiled/lubed? Thanks, Doug

Since there are several options for perscription shooting glasses, this could get real expensive if you choose an option that doesn't work well for you. I wonder if there is one particular option that generally works for most folks who already wear bifocals and who want to compete in the various venues?? As to the approach you are suggesting, how does this work if you are shooting in a venue where you have to move? Doug

Thanks for your help!!! Another problem I am encountering is that I wear progressive bifocals, and cannot see my front sight clearly, unless I tilt my head way back. I wonder how much having a blury front sight affects accuracy?? It looks like I will need to have a custom set of shooting glasses made, the kind that has close up perscription at top of shooting eye lens and then maybe my normal progressive lens for the non-shooting eye. Happy Holidays to All!!! Doug

Hi Everyone, I am new to this forum and also a new shooter interested in USPSA/IDPA/Steel Plate. I have a G34 and have shot a few steel matches and am really enjoying that. I also recently got Brian's book and am slowly reading it for comprehension; haven't gotton to far into it yet. Now my questions, I just had Dawson FO/Adjustables put on the gun and I'm in the process of sighting it in. I went to the range yesterday and frankly had a hard time shooting from a rest and getting a good group, although I probably was not benching the pistol correctly, had my hands on top of the bag vs resting the barrel on the bag; also I did not line up with the center line of my body. Aside from my poor technique, the sights were initially way off and I had no information on how many clicks to move the sights to change POI. I was shooting 5 rounds and then checking the target for impact. I was disappointed at the results, since I had been getting much better groups free style from 15 yds, with the stock sights. Additionally, I am sighting in at 25yds using a 50 yd NRA pistol target that has about an 8" black circle on it. I was trying to align my front sight with the center of the circle and this was probably wrong, assume I should have been placing the the front sight at the 6 clock position and then seeing where the shots land relative to that??? Another point I am confused on is whether I should be lining up the top of the front sight or should I be putting the FO dot on the bottom of black circle??? If I start to hit in the black at 6 clock, should I then make elevation adjustments to bring the grouping closer to the center??? Any help to answer the above or other suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks, Doug