aggie dad

Thanks Dale, I think the throating on my barrel is ok as the bullets are not engaging the rifling at all. Doug

Guys, For my situation (G20 with 10/40 barrel) this OAL is not an issue. In fact, some will even load longer than I am with this setup. Doug

Yes, I am shooting a G20 with a .40 barrel.

Thanks guys, the other thing that is interesting with this is I was using Federal nickel plated "once fired" brass that was supposedly "case rolled" also. Should that be happening with this type of brass????

I just loaded my first rounds on my 550B . While they all case guaged fine in the Dillon case gage, several would not drop into my Glock .40 KKM barrel, and had the infamous bulge at bottom of case. This was despite using a Lee U die. I have not tried any of the new loads at the range yet, but do you think these tight fitting rounds will still be usable? I am somewhat perplexed that they work in a case gage, but do not drop in the barrel OAL is ~ 1.188-1.191, 4.2 gr N320, Fed SP primers, 185 Precision Bullet Thoughts, advice. Thanks, Doug

I am in process of setting up my 550B press, but am confused about installing Redding Precision Seating die. Should I follow Dillion's directions for setting the die into the press or use Reddings instructions? For example, the Dillon instructions say to put a case into the shell plate and then to raise the platform up and screw the die down until it just touches the shell plate and back out two turns. The Redding instructions indicate screwing die down till it touches the shell plate and then back out till the micrometer readings are in front for easy reading. Any other suggestions for using this Redding die? I am new to reloading and don't want to do anything dumb Thanks, Doug

I ordered the Wilson's from BE. Now I am having a problem with assembling the gun with its Wilson slide lock. There seems to be numerous reports that many SA models have an overly long pin and very strong spring which makes assembly without an aide (punch, thin bladed screw driver) difficult. I really don't like the idea of needing a tool to put the slide lock back in, so am going to have the pin shortened a little and hopefully that will resolve the assembly issue. Anyone else experience this with their SA? Thanks, Doug

Yes, that would be me. Nick, you need to teach Ernie how to lube his pistols, it was bone dry, not a good thing. It also initially had a very stiff recoil, mainspring, and trigger, but I suspected these items could be fairly easily rectified. In any event, I paid Mike Caylor a visit this afternoon, and after Mike had a chance to work his magic, I feel so much better about my purchase and am very pleased with the end result. Have not fired the gun yet, but from a functionality perspective it feels so much better. Mike did all the work (~ 3 hrs) while I observed and learned some more about 1911s. He did his reliability package, deburred several components/black teflon coated, installed lighter recoil spring/shock buffer, new firing pin/spring, trigger job, trimmed mainspring, adjusted ambi safety, and installed extended mag release. Mike is a real craftman, and one of the few gunsmiths in the North Texas area I would trust to touch my guns. Thanks guys for all your good input. I will have to take a look at those Tripp mags, never heard of those before Doug

I just purchased a SA TRP Operator (.45 Bull Barrel) which is my first 1911 type pistol. Have been shooting Glocks. I bought it used with ~ 1500 rounds thru it. I wanted to get some advice on getting this gun prepped for competition: 1) Should I have a good smith go over the gun before shooting it for first time (eg change out springs, make sure everything is as it should be) 2) What 10 rd mags would you recommend (Wilson, Chip McCormick, other) for best functioning/reliability. 3) Any mods that I should make to gun aside from a trigger job or some reliability tuning(would like to get to about a 2-2.5 lb trigger). It already has a Wilson extended slide release lever, but I suspect an extended mag release would also be good (any specific recommendations?) 4) Planning to reload with 230 gr Precision Bullets, and VVN310. Does any one have a good starting point for this combo? Also what OAL should I load to and are Federal LP primers ok? Thanks, Doug

When I started shooting about 9 months ago, I had no idea of what a correct grip was. In May, I took a class that dramatically altered my grip, but he had everyone making contact with the gun with their weak hand tumbs and even applied grip tape to several students guns to ensure weak hand thumb does not slip off. Undoing some of this stuff is a challenge . Oh well, no one said shooting is easy. Doug

It would be nice to meet all of you personally for a handshake and thank you; I know of no other sport or board where you can get this high level of personalized help. It also amazes me how our top shooters on here are able to articule solutions and proper mechanics/technique so simplistically that even a knucklehead like me can understand. A big thank you!!!!! Doug

OK, but to what extent does the weak hand apply force front to back against the strong hand vs side to side against the strong hand (eg equally, more side to side, more front to back, or no front to back pressure). I do understand the suggested 60/40 differential between weak and strong hands and the need to keep the trigger finger loose, but in what direction(s) does the weak hand distribute pressure if other than equally front to back/side to side. I suppose this is something that needs to be determined thru experimentation to find out what works best for the individual, but I am curious of how most expereinced shooters apply this pressure. Perhaps characterizing this as push pull is an outdated term and incorrect. Thanks, Doug

How would you characterize your grip pressure in terms of push (strong hand) pull (weak hand) vs applying side to side pressure ala like a vise does? Thanks, Doug

Thanks Dan and Mike, I will have to visit them soon.

Harmon, I got some Federal 100s at Cabelas to try for my beginning efforts. Next time, I will look at Market Hall gun show to purchase, as Cabelas price wasn't cheap. I am really looking forward to getting started. My goodies from Brian arrived very fast (5 days from order to my front door), an EGW die is intransit, and my used Dillon press will ship tomorrow. I am planning to load to major with Precision 185s using N320, and will probably load them longer, in the 1.180 - 1.190 range. I hope I don't run into any lead shaving problems with the coated bullets, as has been periodically mentioned on the board. Thanks everyone! Doug

Since I am using a reduced power striker spring in my G20 (.40), I assume this will necessitate using the Federal small pistol primers. Thanks all!

Great, Federal is it, but can you use both the small pistol and small rifle interchangably? Thanks guys! Doug

Well my used 550B and caliber upgrade goodies/dies from BE will be arriving soon. I have purchased some once fired Federal brass and will we using N320 and Precision Bullets 185s. Now I need to purchase primers, but would like some advice on what to use and whether there are better alternatives to buying these locally. Thanks, Doug

Bob, Can you identify a few reliable brass sources? Thanks, Doug

Yep it does make a big difference in lockup. I have had the wolf setup in for a little over a month now and my shooting seems to have progressively gone down hill. I'll do a bench test with the stock rod/spring at 25 yds and see how I do accuracy wise. Thanks!!!!

Flex, yes I did add a wolf rod and 15 lb spring. Put the stock rod back in and it locks up tighter than a drum. Maybe I should bench test the stock rod/spring vs the wolf setup or should I just scrap the wolf setup entirely?? Thanks, Doug

Thats an interesting thread on grinding down the Dillion sizing die; I wonder why Dillion has not incorporated that change into their die manufacturing process so it become a non-issue and you don't end up sending your customers to the competition????

Thanks for the help. Just two more questions and I will leave you guys alone: 1) where can I get a Lee U die; when I look in my Midway catalog I see alot of dies, but no U die?? 2) is the powder die that comes with dillion presses universal as to caliber, or will I need to purchase a .40 dillion powder die? Thanks again!!!! Doug

Since I will be getting two tool heads with the setup, does it make sense to run the brass through a regular resize die before going to the U die? Also, given the recommendation to use once fired brass, how many reloads can one typically get from a once fired casing? and although this may be quite anal, does depriming before tumble cleaning the brass help any?

I am in process of acquiring a used 550B that has produced about 10K .45 rounds. Unfortunately, I do not shoot .45 and will be converting this to a .40 setup. To this end, since I have to purchase new dies, I am wondering what dies would be best for someone that will be shooting range brass with Precision Bullets (Redding, Lee, or stick with Dillion) in a Glock? Do I need an EGW die? Also, does it make sense to buy a new powder measure or should I be comfortable with the used unit? Any suggestions for tuning up/lubricating or changing out parts on a used press like this before starting out? I am new to reloading, so will have a lot of dumb questions. Thanks, Doug