nhyrum

You can put the Dillon trimmer on a 750. Most everyone recommends a Lyman m expanding die after, so you have to have two toolheads. One for sizing, trimming, and flaring, then a second one for powder drop and seat bullets Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

You can load 223 just fine on a 650. You just kinda have to do it in two batches really. Process the brass, via sizing and trimming, then loading. I know a number of guys that have a 1050 that all it does is process 223. Size, trim and swage. I don't THINK that a kit costs 300. About 80 for the conversion, dies, depending if you have them or not widely vary, and a feed plate, if you need it, and a toolhead. I don't think the entire quick changes are totally necessary, but they do speed up the changing process. For the bare minimum, it's really only about 150. If you think you'll end up with a 750, then I say just get the 750 to start. It's always nice to be about to load faster/ more than you want or need, but it's a bear to be stuck in your room for far longer than you want to just to load what you want. You can always end up getting a 550,1050, or a different brand press, to do the processing Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Hexagonal boron nitride. Long range rifle guys coat barrels and bores in it helps reduce shot to shot variation and cold bore fliers, lowers chamber pressure, etc. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

It's a shouldered cartridge. I can't back it out any Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Hexagonal boron nitride. It's a micro powder lubricant. in the long range rifle scene, people are coating bullets in it like they used to do with moly. But this is much cleaner than moly, doesn't burn like moly does, and is slicker. Supposed to completely get rid of the cold bore flier. I use a wash and wax, I think the brand is f1. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

sure, for 20 bucks more i could have a whole measure. but I dont need the measure, nor do i want it taking up space in my limited space loading room. I dont have any personal experience with the 550 in particular, but i do a lot of what a lot of people would consider small batch loading. i dont switch calibers or primer sizes often, but is is a small chore, but not that difficult, just somewhat time consuming, i dont know what its like on a 550, but im glad i went with my 650 over the 550. It could be that the 550 is better for small batch stuff.from what i upgraded from, im glad i went 650 though. that being said, for someone fresh into the reloading world, i wouldnt recommend a 650. a 550 max. I recommend starting on a lee turret. cheap, can be single stage, or auto indexing it can be actually pretty productive

i think im a mix of the two theories here. Id prefer to be accurate than fast(easy to type, harder to do) but, if youve got the dry firing and confidence to point shoot, do it. I think we all need to get to the point where we dont reall need the dot for close targets.

its not really that big of an issue. ive got my funnel tumbling in the hbn right now, ill let it go all night to hopefully polish it up and imbed that hbn into it. i was just wondering if anyone has been as... resistant to using lube... as i am lol. i dont like what lube does to my drop tube

I know either of those would solve my issue, but I'm hoping to avoid both Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure Tula primers are pretty sought after in the benchrest community. One of those Russian/Eastern Bloc countries. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

If you wet tumble, I've known many people to not wait long enough before priming, resulting in similar issues, but I think more so dead primers. My thinking is with such a small charge in a large ish case. If you want to keep the same charge, maybe try Magnum primers, but I prefer using powders that get as close to a compressed load as I can for the velocity I want, and still get a complete burn. I don't like those tiny charges. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Honestly, spend the extra hundred bucks or whatever and get the 750. You may not need the volume, but, you can load just as many rounds, in a shorter time. Which means more time shooting, or, in my case, a less angry wife, because I'm not spending as much time reloading to load the same number of rounds. I have one powder drop, but a toolhead and powder die on each toolhead. It's easy enough to switch the drop between toolheads, and easy to change bars off press. At most, I think I'll just get more bars so I can switch each out. I see no need, for me, to have a bunch of drops taking up room when all I need are the bars. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I just got some hbn to use on my elr rifle, and was wondering if any of the benefits would apply to our pistols? Maybe even for mags? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

My daa and Dillon powder funnels stick in my cases on the down stroke, I know it's because I wet tumble, which I don't want to give up. Any ideas on how to get it to not stick, without introducing a lube into the mix, and without cutting out the wet tumbling? I've recently started using hbn on my rifle and bullets, it seems like it would be a great way to sort of permanently lube the funnel. Anyone tried this? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Have you tried wearing wool socks? I've got a nice pair of wool snowboarding socks that are actually pretty thin, I bet they wouldn't make your current shoes fit any tighter, I think the brand is smart wool. I'd wear my normal shoes with those if it's just cold. But if it's wet and mucky, I think work boots would be the best Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Adjust the sight for YOUR eyes and YOUR trigger pull. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Plus, everyone squeezes the trigger differently, which will move the point of impact a little. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

It appears they are hit and miss. For range blasting that would be fine. For defense or competition, you'll need to change the guts out Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

But no matter which way it's facing, the softer end will collapse first. At least the way my brain works it should Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

For 38, sure. 9x25 is a different beast. The Smith, and the guy at Dillon that developed the cartridge recommended starting with 13#. As for orientation, I don't think it matters, the lighter wound coils will collapse first, no matter what Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I used green. I hear it has the holding power of red, but no need for heat. But I might have to go red. I used blue on the grip screws on my 10mm and they'd come loose, even with blue, after a day at the range. I'll monitor these with green and see if I need to go red, which I might just do. These screws only have maybe two threads in the frame Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Note to self. Loctite screws. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Man, I'm really beginning to love this gun. I need to drill and tap a few more holes for more screws, knock the irons out, get my zig racker installed, and now find a new holster/hanger. It looks like the daa will be my only/best bet. That, and shoot it, a bunch Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Durr. I even was holding my gun, and imagined having the mount over it, cycled the slide slowly, but forgot the mount will not move with the slide. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

That all makes sense. Right now ejection is at about 3:00. Looking at the pictures of other guns WTF the rts2, the mount is right above the ejection port, which is further back than where I anticipate mine to be. Glad to know, I likely won't run into issues, only getting everything mounted and shooting it will tell Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk