aerosigns

For a Tactical Team. When we are indoors we don't want loose brass on the floor to slip on. That seems minor, but it cause a major problem. Also, when we are practicing it makes it easier to police up the brass afterwards. We are talking about hundreds of rounds of brass. Many of the bag type catchers don't work, because the weight of the brass causes the bag to lay flat over the ejection port. Thereby causing the jam. I have modified the hard plastic ones to clear scope mounts, and to prevent the smoke from leaking backwards into the operators eyes. That burns. I am waiting to test the one from 3 bucc. They say that theirs snaps in and out like a socket onto a wrench. That would be good since the plastic type takes some fine motor skills to remove. The problem is that when your in a high round count situation, the fine motor skills vanish. Jim

Thanks, but I am actually looking to use these in a true tactical environment. I have been pretty surprised that no one has passed through here yet, that has used any good brass catchers. But hey I appreciate the try. Jim

I found this type from 3Bucc. Does anyone have any experience with these? http://www.3bucc.com/ Thanks, Jim

For those that care the registration form is now up on the website for the Northern Illinois Section shoot. http://www.northernillinois-uspsa.org/ I plan to send mine in in a few days. Maybe we can get another Revo squad going. Jim

I have had some contact with the AD for our area about a slot. He said that last year he couldn't give it away. That means, obviously, that since I really want it, everyone else will also. I am trying to do what I can to earn the slot, more than hoping for luck. I have already scheduled my vacation for the week. So I am either going to shoot, or watch. Like I saw in another thread, seeing Jerry & Mike Carmoney at the same place will be like seeing giant pandas in the mist. Jim

I plan to do what I can to land a spot, with my Revo. But that depends on my luck with getting a club spot, or the waiting list. Perhaps those who have used the waiting list can provide some good tips on how the system works? Jim

What's your favorite color? Jim

Help! I am looking for AR-15 Brass Catchers that do not jam the rifle. I have flat tops, A2's, and A3's all with Trijicon reflex II sights mounted. I have tried the Velcro'ed on bags, and they don't stay open, therefore jamming the rifle. I have used the hard plastic shell type, which work excellent once you modify it to clear the Trijicon wingnut. However the A3 looses some of the space inside the carry handle. Has anyone come across anything better? [attac ment=3654:attachment]

Mike, I would like to try your scale. 'Cuz I don't have those luxury tools. I was also thinking along your line, and am glad to read the thoughts from you guys. I have considered returning to a heavier main spring, for a more positive ignition. I worry about it being too light until I have time to learn more. But I now have the ability to dial the trigger pull exactly where I want it. 4.5 lbs would be where I would like so that it matches my .45 Auto. Thanks for the guidance. Jim

Hey guys, I checked the trigger pull on my 'Claw' hammer. Using a crude scale it came out at slightly over 3 lbs. My two 686's are between 4 and 5, but with the full hammer. They will all fire any brand of off the shelf ammo, or reloads. So this went well so far. Jim

What about just ordering a new hammer directly from Smith? If anyone wants to know the tools I used to make mine, I'm more than happy to share. I used a sharpie to mark were the hammer protruded from the frame, when at rest, and when the trigger is pulled. Then just cleared away the area in the middle. I used a 4" angle grinder to hog out the big stuff. (If your not used to working with one of these, this is not the time to learn!!! Or you will be learning to shoot lefty). I also used my Dremel with a diamond tipped bit to get close to the rough shape. The most important piece to have the finished look, was a 3 inch drum sander mounted on a drill press. First with a 100 grit paper, then went to 600 grit dry emery paper, then 600 grit wet (w/rem oil) emery paper. All while constantly moving the drum up and down. Then I put on the buffing wheel and went through 4 stages of rouge. All total took about 8 hours, with breaks and being very careful. You have always heard measure twice / cut once. This is a case where I measured 5-10 times then sanded once. I had a printout of Mikes laying on the bench the whole time I was working. Thanks for sharing Mike. (No wonder everyone wants to be like you). One problem I noted with the MIM. The seams from the forming had some areas that were below the plane of the rest of the piece. I couldn't get these out without losing material from the main piece. They are below frame anyway, so I stopped where I had to. No one will see it, but it makes my OCD flare up from time to time. If you look in one of the pictures, you can also see my low tech trigger stop. Clear Silicone. I just a large blob onto the back of the trigger. When it is still soft, but not tacky to the touch, squeeze the trigger until the hammer falls. Use a bread tie to tie off the trigger at that point. Wait for the silicone to harden. Release the bread tie, and trim with an exacto knife. Works perfect. Jim

Hey Guys, Here is my rendition of the "Claw" Hammer. I wanted it to fill the void behind the hammer without losing the benefit of skeletonizing. Hope the pictures come through well enough for you to see. Jim [attac ment=3576:attachment]

El Capitan, Do I understand that you are using the airsoft to practice with, or that you are flinching when using the airsoft? Jim

MCB, Welcome to circle cyclers. Now you have no excuse for not doing more dry fire exercises. Good luck with it. Jim

I managed to put 10 stitches into my trigger finger this past Sunday at the monthly match, so I will have to see if I will be able to shoot. Trigger, That was my gun you tried to Ginsu your finger on. Like I said at the 4 classifier, the extractor was just gummed up. When I got home I was able to just pop it out, (without a knife even). I still feel bad about your getting hurt, and I do appreciate your trying to help. Apparently that was the problem with my 1911 feeding. Didn't have a single flaw during the 4 classifier. So at least something positive came from the incident. I won't be shooting the WIIT. But hope your able to make it. Jim

To the Guys at Tri-county - I will be there for sure, for the Northern ILL. shoot. To everyone else. - When and where for the IL. section. There isn't anything on the USPSA website. Is it going to be down by Peoria? And for anyone writing this stuff down, I will be shooting my Revolver at both. Jim

I have posted this on another thread but it applies here also. I have found the easiest and lowest cost way to chamfer and polish a cylinder. I went to our local Harbor Freight Tool Store (http://www.harborfreight.com) and picked up a 3 In 1 Countersink Set (Item # 07939) for $4.99. The 1/2" bit is perfect for .38 but the same size as the charge hole on the .45. I had to chuck the 5/8" bit in my drill and run it against my angle grinder. Within a couple of minutes I had it down to the perfect size for the .45. Working slowly and carefully I had three guns chamfered in less than 1/2 hour. As far as buffing the charge holes I bought some Dremel Felt Polishing Wheels (Item # 414) for $2.76. I then gently ran them against a wood working rasp to get them down to proper size for the charge holes. Using buffing compound for Stainless Steel, I slowly went to work on my cylinders. Each polished up like a mirror, by doing a little to each hole and moving the next over and over. Numbering the cylinders with a Sharpie helps to keep track of where you are. I was watching 'Hunt For Red October' while I was working. By the time the movie was over I had three guns with professional looking polished and chamfered cylinders. Hope this helps.

Problem Solved!!! I found about the cheapest way to chamfer a cylinder. A 3 pc. countersink set (item 7939-1VGA) from Harbor Freight Tools. Total cost $4.99 Took about 5 minutes by hand to complete chamfer, then a few minutes of buffing to polish up the job. The 1/2 bit is the same size as a .45 charge hole, but perfect for a .38 / .357. A little sanding on the 5/8" bit should be bring that bit to size for the .45.

Other than purchasing the Chamfering tool from Brownells, or sending it out to one of the gunsmith shops, does anyone have any other options for chamfering a revolver cylinder? In Jerry's video he even shows using a 3 sided file. Jim

Mike, Randy, Anyone..... I have a question about Hammer Reduction Surgery. Is there a point that you must progress to, or it won't work. In other words, must I go to a certain level of reduction or it either doesn't help, or won't work at all. I am deciding how much I am going to take off, and what I want the finished product to look like. On a side note, and I don't mean to cause thread drift. When I drop the hammer I hear/feel a vibration. Like the hammer is bouncing when it hits. I don't have this in any of my other revolvers, and wonder if it is a result of the Mainspring / Rebound spring not being as heavy as it was from the factory. Is this a good, bad, or doesn't matter thing. Jim

40, Thanks for the PM. Thought I would come back to the thread in case others have the same question. I don't really see the difference between the Flex-hone, and the hone that you used. (Thanks for the part number). Both appear to be small ball-hones. You said that you have tried both. What do you feel is the major difference. Thanks, Jim

Mike, Where will the shoot be at exactly. I might have missed it earlier in the thread. No matter though. I will plan on being there with wheel guns on. Price was real good also. Heck I pay that much just to shoot regular and a reshoot for 8 stages. Jim

I'm sorry. I forgot that you probably have roadies. Jim

Hey guys, Waiting for Homen to receive my registration for Revo. Made reservation at Best Western. Have Revolver slicked up. Don't know if Mike C. is staying at Best Western, but ..... I asked that if he does, could several small pieces of gravel be placed under his mattress as that is way he really likes his hotel beds. I told them he is kind of like a Rock & Roll celebrity who doesn't want any brown M&M's. Jim

Mike, Yeah, I knew about the Sat/Sun thing. But after I hit enter, and I tried to correct the mistake my 'puter crashed. I do plan as I said on the Saturday arrival, just to see if I can offer some small amount of support. Does the entry have to been in at WI before you can self squad? First time I have done this. If thats the case then I will be squadding in a couple of days. Jim