redpillregret

My buddy’s are running SROs in open and seem to love them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I’m typically a big training advocate, I kept missing DA shots with my Shadow 2. Sure, if I slowed way down, I could guarantee an Alpha but the time expense doesn’t improve my score. I dry-fired 30minutes 4-5x week and was shooting 2-300 rounds live 3x a month through it in practice and an additional 300 rounds per month in matches. I suppose DA comprised around 1/4 of those rounds, yet I was not making progress in DA. After around three months, a friend and fellow competitor texted me a list of springs and parts and suggested I get them. I purchased them x2 (one for each of Shadow 2s as to keep the trainer and match gun the same) for a sum of $80 shipped. Suddenly I was getting Alphas out of the holster and ringing steel out of the holster. I don’t know how much longer it would have taken me to achieve the same results with training but at three months, and at least more than 9x the cost in ammunition, I “bought performance” with two spring kits and firing pins. According to some of you guys how long should I have “trained” to get the same result of $80 on parts? Additionally, are those guys all shooting 100% stock pistols? Yes, I will continue to practice. My practice has and should continue to focus on the whole gamut of skills but it did not correct my shortcoming at this time while parts did improve my scores and confidence. The notion that it is practice OR parts is asinine. It should be practice AND parts. ETA: I also had a $450 training course during this time and fired 1,200 rounds during that which I didn’t count. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tammi, I’d recommend you benching the pistol and shoot from a rest or sandbag before blaming it on the sights. I’ve shot several out of the box and nine were significantly low or left. I’m going on a limb thinking you’re likely a new shooter and right handed. It is typically that inexperienced shooters will shoot low left. This is exacerbated in double-action. Should you discover that the sight needs adjusted, the process should be in the owner’s manual. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Since it’s the same footprint as the RMR, if it’s a problem, you could replace it with an RMR or holosun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was told they would start shipping to dealers on the 9th. I ordered one and was told not to expect it by June. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know nothing about them offering an R3Max with any specific cut. But their new pistols will be DPP cut, including updated to existing X-Series guns. https://www.osagecountyguns.com/blog/news/sig-sauer/sigs-2019-firearm-releases-detailed/ It seems odd Sig would offer three different cuts on their optics and two variations on pistols. But it’s Sig, they do Sig stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Knowing Sig, second Tuesday of next week. Really, the M17s are available and have DPP cut. Supposed to carry over to new production X series soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New Sigs are supposed to come with a DPP cut. The old Sigs will require an adapter plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You did not reference the Sig. The thread is about the Trijicon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read the thread. It’s $490. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe it’s safe to say the “tactical” crowd and CO crowd have vetted the RMR thoroughly on guns that get beat up pretty badly, reciprocating on the slide, and even with intentional abuse. See some of the Aaron Cowan write-ups and videos. Being the mounting is the same and the electronics are akin to the type 2 RMR, I’ll wager the DPP and others are no match for the new Trijicon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trijicon has been making all electronic optics for at least a decade. They have been holding up better than Leupold, CMore, Vortex, Sig...the whole field. The complaint was the Trijicon was too small. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My type 1 RMR started blinking after about 5,000 rounds. I bent the battery connector slightly, switched to Duracell batteries (thicker), and slid a piece of tape under it. That’s how I still run. My type 1 RMR now has 25,000 rounds on it. Granted, that’s not all in one year. My aftermarket trigger broke before my RMR. It direct milled for that that specific optic. Not direct milled for an RMR, but my RMR. Taking it out requires patience......and a mallet. It’s working so well I still have my original “backup” RMR new in box. I don’t think the type 2 was actually any improvement, just a few stopgap measures that could keep them in the fame while the SRO was developed. Seems the Red Dot has been the weakest, most common thing to fail on a match set-up. I’ve been in more than one class where guys complain they’ve lost their dot and they just freeze up in confusion for a few seconds. If the SRO works, it’ll be well worth $490. What is cheaper? 2-3 Delta Points or Romeos or one SRO? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This has been my experience. Certain headstand brass, I can pull the bullet after it’s run through the FCD and it may be 0.002” smaller than it started. I get lots of flyers and velocity variation with Blues when using the FCD. I figured this out after some uncalled Ds and Mikes on 25-30 yard targets when I know I had a good call. It does work awesome for FMJs though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that a taper crimp works better on coated lead bullets than does the FCD. It will actually size the bullet down with thicker brass. Just use a Redding taper crimp and accuracy will be better and velocity will be more consistent, especially with mixed stamp brass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Transitions are much more important than splits. Say a dude shoots .15 splits and the next dude shoots .25 splits. Let’s assume they are all alphas, which isn’t realistic. An eighteen round field course the splits are 1.8 seconds. Some dudes draw to first shot are that large. What about reloads, transitions, and coming into and out of position, etc? I didn’t tell him not to work on splits, but that’s the last thing that will change the outcome. There are more gains to be made other places. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Matches are not won or loss by splits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of firearm? The profile of the blues is such that the ogive of the bullet it more toward the tip. This is fine to achieve pressure with a smaller powder charge, I suspect. This means less powder to get your desired velocity. Less powder, less recoil. My CZs like 125 gr. Blues at 1.08”. My Sig and Glocks will function at 1.10”. I don’t use just one gun, so I try to make a load that functions in everything. If you use the flat tip bullets, they can be loaded longer, and I would recommend this for 147s. That has been my experience with Acme 147s anyway. The bulge you experience is normal. I don’t think the bulge is what is keeping your rounds from gauging. I suspect it’s OAL. Perform the test other posters have posted above to determine proper OAL. I experienced a problem with a bulge keeping my rounds from gauging. I was told it was oal but it wasn’t the problem. It was that my RCBS die wouldn’t size the rounds down far enough. Shooting certain guns without fully supported chambers created a problem. The Lee Factory Crimp Die provided a solution for me and I would recommend it if you truly have a bulge stopping your rounds from gauging. As an experiment, size a piece of your brass and pull it out of the press. Will the freshly sized brass gauge? If not, the Lee will solve your problem. I ended up using the Lee U die and it helped as well, but ultimately my brass didn’t seem to last long and the press didn’t run smooth. I replaced that with a Redding Titanium Carbide FL die and a Redding Competition Seating Die. My ammunition doesn’t even need gauges anymore and it is now more accurate than its ever been...that or I’m becoming a better shooter. Good luck in getting this solved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can release the trigger during recoil to allow reset. Are you seeing what you need to see? Are you able to make acceptable shots with splits in the .20 range? If so, I don’t think a .2 split is holding many back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you go into a match thinking you’ll screw up, you will. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I listened to this on my way to work this morning. You’re inspiring me to get back into shooting having taken the last nine months off. I picked up a couple new pistols and tried to knock the rust off. Dang I suck! But I will get better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep exactly. But the U-die seemed well recommended so that’s what I went with. The original size was adjusted as deep as I could and it was actually showing wear on the bottom of the die as well as the shell plate. I’m glad to stop using it. So far with the new die I’m at 100% pass rate for the first 1,000 rounds plus. I’m pretty confident in the process. At worst, I’m over working 9mm brass but I shoot fairly mild loads and end up losing quite a bit of brass at matches (where you want to be careful anyway because you’ll end up with 9mm major brass mixed in that’s asking for trouble). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update: Disassembled several rounds that would not plunk and failed the gauge. Ran rounds through the RCBS sizing die and reloaded. These rounds again failed. Installed the Lee U die, disassembled the remained of the failed rounds and ran them back through the press. Viola, these rounds plunked and passed the gauge. Again disassembled the failed rounds and ran them through the press with the Lee die installed. These rounds now pass both tests. Problem solved! I ran several more rounds through and it seems to be working perfectly. Thanks for the suggestions! This should save me a lot of time in that I’ll be confident each and every practice round won’t need gauged. I have 1,000 rounds to run tomorrow to get started on a new pistol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And you police after every gun you switch to lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk