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JDMahan

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    John Mahan

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  1. Just grasping here, but since you said old cases, several years ago there was a run of Winchester 9mm cases with off-center primer holes. They were especially incompatible with Win. Primers. More recently, S & B 38 special cases have the same issue. Keep us posted...
  2. That's a tough one, since the primer is correctly oriented going forward. You might check to make sure your shell plate is tight enough to hold the case in a consistently proper location. I had an issue with the little 'paperclip' spring; sometimes the case wouldn't be held all the way back in proper location. I never got any upside down, but a couple sideways, and some kind of deformed from being slightly off center. Hope this helps
  3. JDMahan

    New guy’s stupid reloading question here....

    One other reason to buy new brass: Some moonclips work best (or only work) with certain headstamp. If/when you get into revolvers for competition, you want a good supply of the headstamp(s) that function with your moonclip/gun combo John
  4. I'm sure Smith & Wesson will treat you right. Make sure to report back with follow-up. John
  5. This is a good point. It was noticeable, usually just on one side of the case. John
  6. I second the make-up sponges, and also the make-up removal pads. Dirt cheap (I steal mine from my daughter), and handy sizes. Bullseye shooters mix their own brew (generically "Ed's Red) http://www.gunsandgunsmiths.com/eds-red/ Folks swear by it. John
  7. JDMahan

    New guy’s stupid reloading question here....

    Hey: Got so excited ordering .38 sp brass, I forgot to answer the op's question. In Bullseye, it's fairly common to buy new brass (usually Starline) at the start of each season, for long line loads (50 yards slowfire) matches. This then goes in the bucket for shortine (25 yards timed and rapid fire), and then into the practice bin. These are very light loads, so the brass lasts forever, but the hardcore guys are looking for sub 2" groups at 50yrds. (Us hackers are happy with 3" groups, so pretty much any brass will do if the gun is sound) This refers to (mostly) .45; that's what all the cool kids shoot. John
  8. JDMahan

    New guy’s stupid reloading question here....

    Thanks for this!! I can get all the 9, 40, and 45 I want, but nobody shoots .38 (more importantly, they don't leave it laying around), Placing order... Thanks again John
  9. I don't know if it is relevant, but I had a similar situation with my 625. Kept track of moonclips, headstamp, etc., no common thread. HOWEVER, it seemed to happen with light loads and long shooting sessions. Best I could figure, the light loads didn't expand enough, and I got fouling that (slightly, almost imperceptibly) impeded chambering. So the firing pin strike just finished the chambering. The 'light strikes' fired on second attempt. I now just brush the chambers (dry) when I'm shooting high round counts of light loads, and I haven't had a recurrence. Hope it helps, if it does thanks goes to the guy shooting a 686+ that told me about his similar issues. John
  10. Hey, you're close to me, I'm in Highlands Ranch. I don't think I could discern a .02g difference on my beam scale; I usually throw 10 and average. After working up (3 8 & 3.9), and down, 3.6, I think I've settled on 3.7, 1.12oal. Runs perfect, and very accurate. As a bonus, my 2 hks really likes this load too. Thanks for the input.
  11. Ok, home from the Range. I had loaded 10 each of 3.5, 3.6, and 3.7 of tg, all at 1.12 oal 3.5 functioned barely, failed to lockback, empties dribbled out on my arm. 3.6 was better, positive ejection and function. 3.7 the group really tightened up, felt very mild, perfect function. Empties landed in a nice pile just behind and right of my shoulder. Only 10 shots, but very encouraging. Based on this I'll load up a enough of the 3.7 to seriously test for accuracy. Maybe it really is that easy... Thanks to everyone for the help, I'm sure you saved me lots of time and grief. I really appreciate it.
  12. Got it, makes sense. I'm heading to the Range this morning, I'll report back.
  13. Isn't 1.06 pretty short? I put together some dummy rounds today at 1.12, and they passed the 'plunk test, and Fed ok by hand cycling. I should have mentioned these are the new profile.
  14. Thanks, I'll load up a few in that range and check for function, and then nudge it up and down to fine tune accuracy. I've never loaded the coated bullets before, but I assume (I know, always a dangerous thing) I won't get into trouble if I use data for cast of the same weight. I feel like a rookie, even though I've been reloading forever. I only loaded three .45 loads; one for 25yds, one for 50, and using titegroup for indoors. Thanks again for the help.
  15. My son has just started shooting steel challenge, and wants me to reload for him (i know, but at least he'll shoot with me). Anyway, I've been reloading .45 for bullseye for years, on a Dillon 550. But I've never loaded 9mm. Picked up some Acme 124g RN to try out. I have jugs of Bullseye, and a fair amount of Titegroup, so I would appreciate suggestion using those. Or if those powders won't work, what do you suggest. Looking for as light as we can go and still have reliable function (in a Range Officer 9mm) He did already buy me a new tool head, dies, and conversion kit?, so there's that. Thanks
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