Lastcat
-
Posts
434 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Lastcat
-
-
28 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said:
Till it fits. it all depends on how long the cylindrical section is and to a lesser degree depth of lock up (barrel to slide angel)
like I said I mount the barrel and comp assy in the lathe and file and sand till it fits the way I want.
Thanks Mike, think I'll go with .005" all around.
-
2 hours ago, MikeBurgess said:
I hope you mean about .585 or more, the threads are .575
that said the EGW cones I have used come over sized and will need to be turned to fit your slide. normally I do this with a file and fine sand paper with the barrel fit to the comp and the comp held in the lathe take a little off and test fit the slide repeat till its a nice fit all the way to full lock up.
Mike how much of a gap do you allow between the Comp and the Slide? (.004, .005, .006, etc....?)
-
98% passed
-
3 Pouches, magnet at 12 o'clock. Pull the big stick off the magnet to Make Ready, then 2 140's in the pouches. Very rarely every use the 3rd pouch, but it's there. Mags off the barrel, I grab 2, one goes on the magnet, other in the gun. Then unloading after COF, I slap the finished mag on the magnet.
-
6 hours ago, BoyGlock said:
Micced 3 chambers in my open guns and heres what i found. All are from barrel hoods.
Schuemann hybrid: 0.910”KKM: 0.910”
STI: 0.902”
KKM and STI were made by same gs.
STI barrel is the one in the gun that fails to lock up about 2 in 100 rnds. Considering .38super is a straight walled cartridge, is .008” enough to cause OOB by 3/16-1/8”?
Absolutely. If you try to put a size 9 1/2 foot in a size 5 shoe, something has to give. But whatever the OAL of the round you choose, regardless of HP, FP, RN, it has to fit said barrel.
It has to fit into the chamber without the bullet being seated too long for your particular chamber and in some way hitting the lande. .008" oversized (in your case per trials) is just enough to keep the barrel from locking up into full battery, which means the end of the round is stuck up against the breach face, stopping full lock up. Shorten the OAL. Science by Thomas Dolby.
-
6 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
I didn't watch his 20+ minute video, but I can tell you from the photo that's not the correct way to fit an extractor. The flat on the extractor should be contacting the case rim and the hook shouldn't be touching anything. Once you do that, the case should be on the breach face and the extractor can be tensioned by feel.
For 9, 40 and 38S there needs to be a gap between the case and extractor, unless it's a 45, then there is no gap. I have a 9mm Open Gun. The gap from the case to the breach is my concern. Normal? Otherwise it looks like ignition is going to slam the case into the extractor, yes?
-
New Brazo 5" Slide and new EGW Standard Extractor. 2011 Open Gun. Just watched this from wolf 83, many great videos.
So here is mine, case is down far as possible. See a problem? Tension is great, but dam, getting the Extractor back in the slide takes some force, bigly table slam. FPS fits great, no slop. Extractor fits FPS great as well. There's a .025" gap between the Breach Face and the Case. I also have a Heavy Duty EGW Extractor I tried and it looks the same. Looks like trouble. Now what?
-
-
On 10/28/2020 at 8:11 AM, ilovevtac said:
Anyone have any tips or tricks to remove the magwell insert? Per the manufacturer, you have to push the insert inwards towards the center but mine is not budging at all.
Thanks!I hear ya. I did the same to mine, just to GunKote the Magwell. Pried, WD40 and heated that Insert. Just couldn't get that damn thing out, unless I start screwing with the Magwell and damage that. That Insert is in there, nice tight fit too.
I said screw it, got the Soldering Iron and melted the Insert all the way through on one side, just enough to pry it out. Saved the Magwell, not a scratch. Got the Magwell Gunkoted and just spent the $20 for a new Insert. If I ever have to change it again, I might stick it in the oven @350 for 30 mins, salt and pepper to taste. Maybe some veggies and garlic bread to go with it.
-
2 hours ago, ClarenceOveur said:
Ideally, the score keeper would opposite of the RO, and have a different view of the shooter during the course of fire, but frequently the scorekeeper is scoring targets, and sees even less than the RO.
I understand this is done to reduce the amount of time spent on the stage by each squad, and it is allowed by 9.6.2: "The Range Official responsible for a course of fire may stipulate that the scoring process will begin while a competitor is actually completing a course of fire....", however it usually eliminates the score keeper from assisting the RO, as they will be behind the RO.
Yes, opposite, as I stated. Sometimes when they can and to keep things moving, they can back score. Sometimes they can't. Start downrange for instance. And sometimes, they aren't even trained, just a volunteer. We need more RO's where I shoot. Sometimes, it's only 2 of us
. Oh well, it's all fun, best Sport to be involved in, even as a Super Senior 
.
-
21 hours ago, JohnStewart said:
I think 7.1.1 is what establishes that only the RO can issue any penalty (including a DQ):
======
Range Officer(“RO”) –issues range commands, oversees competitor compliance with the written stage briefing and closely monitors safe competitor action.
He also declares the time, scores, and penalties achieved by each competitor and verifies that these are correctly recorded on the competitor’s score sheet (under the authority of a Chief Range Officer and Range Master)
======
So, the shooter should have been given a reshoot due to the Peanut Gallery interference and no DQ since there wasn't an RO who observed a 180 violation.
Agree. Also the 2nd RO is the Score Keeper and is qualified to issue penalties, they should always be on the opposite of the RO running the shooter, at a wider view. RO's can't catch everything and can't be everywhere. But anyone on the Squad should not consider themselves RO's at the Start/End of any Stage that is currently running. A first warning should be first given to the Squad. Then unsportsmanlike conduct penalty.
-
18 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:
Tuff to prove!!!! and politely as I can put it, didn't realize it was the galleries job to RO the RO.
Address via the MD and be ready to take over ROing at those matches
Summary:
Yes it's done, yes it's probably coaching.
Honestly by the time that is done, if the shooter finds the lost target and shoots it , it won;t make a difference in their score because the the large amount of time that has gone by!
This
-
Much better. That first Match Vid wasn't too bad for starting out. One thing be mindful of, whenever you put your gun in the holster, never take your eye off the gun, until it is fully in place. I watched a guy get DQ'd last weekend. Lost sight of his gun, just dropped it "at" his holster, gun hit the ground.
Get down. I mean, squat and wider stance. Then explode from transitions. Try shooting on the move too, forwards and backwards when needed. It's a time saver. Glad you are still at it, it's a good sport, stay at it. Peace.
-
Can't reach mine..lol
So, just cut and shaped a piece of Aluminum and attached it. Got the length just right with my grip, no hitting with my weak hand. It is a strong spring in there for sure. I left that stock, no problems dropping a Mag.
-
Winchester. Very consistent.
I single stage all my brass to bell mouth and primer at the same time. Really helps to catch the bad brass. Then over to the Progressive Press. I can tell when bell mouthing each piece of brass which is hard or soft. The ones that bulge to one side are usually very hard and get tossed, possibly just over worked (fired and reloaded more than a few times).
I've tested both hard and soft brass and very similar in fps on the chrono. Winchester for me just seems to be right in the middle. Verse's softer brass, FC, Speer, Blazer, etc... and the harder brass RP, HRGT, S&B, Geco, etc... Using 8.6 HS6, Fed Primers, Everglades 115 jhp at 1512 fps.
But I'll load them all, as long as they do not bulge during bell mouthing and fit my gauge. And they all get gauged. If I had to pick 15k pieces of brass, it would be Winchester.
-
5 hours ago, stick said:
Yeah. and they should be arrested for price gouging. The asking prices for primers are Ludacris.
In the Wa Ore forums? Where you seeing that? I've been seeing 35-45 bucks. Also trading straight across rifle for pistol primers.
-
2 hours ago, regor said:
Put about 500 rounds through it after re-zeroing and adding a nail polish witness mark and checked at the end of the match I shot this weekend and it was still dead on + no signs of a shift in the witness mark. 500 rounds is hardly a thorough test, but I am cautiously optimistic that it will continue to hold.
Good to hear. Thanks for the update regor.
-
5 hours ago, Joe4d said:
yeh for $120 per k
$35 - $50 per 1k for primers. Some are looking to trade for a pound of powder. If they are gouging, people are passing, best response.
-
On 9/18/2020 at 6:44 AM, chp5 said:
Anyone know a seller that allows you to back order primers? All I see aren't taking back orders. Crazy times!
Check your local State Gun Forums, the reloading ad section. In Ore and Wa, primers are being sold and traded everyday.
-
Welcome JTran, good to see you here. We did Paul Bunyan last Sunday (Lani K here). Lot's of good info here. Hoping you get that slide lock worked out for you. Cheers.
-
23 hours ago, regor said:
Took mine apart and took the brass plate off from the rear. I’m pretty sure @Lastcat is correct that the brass plate is what secures the elevation adjustment. With it off the elevation spins with very little effort.
The little threaded protrustion in the back center is the elevation adjustment screw. You can see a little nub sticking out of it. That goes through a small hole in the brass plate, and the bend in the plate adds tension to the elevation screw when the plate is screwed down. As far as I can tell that is the only mechanism for keeping the elevation adjustment secure.
I added a little extra bend to the plate and it did make the elevation adjustment noticeable more stiff, though it still doesn’t have clicks.
Be very careful with the brass plate’s screws as well as the screws for the optic baseplate; they are very soft and very likely to strip if you try to tighten them too much, which is unfortunate because it really limits how much extra bend you can put in the brass plate.
Looking at the Elev. Screw. It looks like the end of the set screw has a post that applies pressure to lower or raise the Diode. Bending, adding shims or a spring might not change anything. Might be best to add Blue Loctite. Get it mounted quickly and dial it back in. With the Blue, you still have a chance to make changes without much effort after it has dried, verse's using the Red or 602. Just a thought.
-
1 hour ago, CHA-LEE said:
If you are not adding some thread lock to the "Tension" screw then it will back out again and your windage adjustment will likely start to drift again.
The repeated stories of people sending their sights in for this issue and SIG claiming "No Trouble Found" is alarming. They are obviously not verifying the screw torque settings on all of the screws that actually matter. From a basic troubleshooting perspective if someone is claiming that the windage adjustment screw is drifting then the FIRST thing they should be checking is if the tension screw is tightened to the proper spec.
That being said, you guys realize that these Red Dot sights are being mass produced by the lowest bidder in China right? SIG gets them made for a good discount then turns around and charges a premium for it by simply slapping their logo on it and calling it theirs. Capitalism at its best.
Oh ya, I'm sure Japan can make these for $20 each. Haven't had my windage screw change in 4 Matches (yet), but if so, I could add a drop of blue loctite if needed.
-
1 hour ago, zzt said:
Anyway, the moral of this post is life is too short to be messing around doing a build by hand when things like slide to frame fit contribute so little to accuracy. If this is your first time, buy a short block from a first rate firm. The rest of the build will go easily. If you make a mistake you've ruined a $60 part, not a $600 dollar one. I used to be a tool & die maker, so I had all the measuring and other tools, and knew how to use them. I can't imagine buying all that stuff for only one or two by hand builds. The cheap Chinese stuff available is just not accurate enough for a precision build.
True that, life is too short. I used to be a CNC Machinist, but have nothing in the shop, not even a Lathe. Got all the Mic's, Gauges, Inside Mics, the works. Good luck on your next build.
-
I have been lucky to find supplies, all but primers. Try your state firearms/gun forums, at the Reloading Classified's, they are selling stuff and fast. I missed about 5,000 small pistol primers by 2 mins, argh! But check often on 2 forums here in Wa and Ore. I usually can shoot 5 Matches a month, but getting very low on primers. So down to 2 or 3 a month. Once Dec comes along, it gets too wet and cold here, good time to stop. Hopefully next year by March things get better.
For brass, check your local Ranges. They have brass of all sorts. I just picked up 11 lbs of 9mm yesterday. For powder I have found the Forums and lucky enough to get orders placed at the big Box Stores. Ask your family, co-workers, neighbors and friends for brass, primers and powders. Have them watch for ya. Sometimes the smaller town gun stores could have supplies. Hopefully by the end of the year, maybe 2021, we'll start seeing the shelves stocked again.
Comp for 9mm minor(145-155PF)
in Open Pistols
Posted
Thanks Mike. I wish, got my Open Gun out. New barrel getting plated and slide getting zig racker dovetail up at JPL's. You always put on great Matches in Dundee, Ore. Great times there and the people are really good to chill with.
Hopefully I get parts back next week then get to TCGC and Dundee next month. Cheers.