Lastcat
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Posts posted by Lastcat
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I've seen this recently. Open Shooter actually had his holster almost horizontal on his right hip and pointed at his "twig and berries"
. As long as he didn't point his gun Uprange beyond a 3' radius behind himself. Unfortunately, people have a ND holstering and pulling their gun.
10.5.6 While facing downrange, allowing the muzzle of a loaded firearm to point
uprange beyond a radius of 3 feet from a competitor’s feet while drawing or
re-holstering.
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8 hours ago, zzt said:
On every Cheely e2 grip I've used I've had to fit the MSH to the GS (what you are calling the BT). On the last one I had to remove about .010" from the MSH. If you don't do this and force the pin in you put pressure on the GS and it jams. Assemble the gun completely without the magwell. If the problem still occurs, the MSH and/or GS is the problem. If it works, your problem is with the magwell.
When properly fit you can push the MSH up against the GS with your thumb and slide the pin into the MSH until it hits the retainer pin. If you take a little too much off the GS and/or MSh the GS will be pushed out by spring tension. No big deal, but it will move in when you grip the gun.
Yep, that's what is was.
Worked on this Frame/Slide last night and took the Grip Safety (what I was calling the beavertail
, I forgot the real name at the time) and made sure it fit the Frame first. Once I did that, I gained a bit of room and the Slide did move farther back.
Solution: The Grip Safety was putting excessive pressure on the frame, which was causing the rear rails to flex. Once I had the GS properly fit, it released tension on the rear rails.
I removed all of the Ignition Kit parts (sear spring, hammer/strut, etc...) and only installed the GS and I checked to make sure the Main Spring Housing was not hitting the GS, when installed with the Magwell Pin (no tension from the Strut).
I was able to Dykem the MSH and test the fit until I had clearance between this part and the GS. Once I filed some clearance, there was no longer any tension from the Magwell Pin to the MSH to the GS and to the Frame. Which was causing this "Stacked" tension on the Rear Frame Rails. Fixed, all good. Thanks to everyone that replied.
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35 minutes ago, NoSteel said:
Maybe try a 15ld mainspring just to test your theory? Really seems unlikely that the frame would flex enough to bind like that but maybe it is fitted so tight to the rails it only takes a slight amount. The 6” limited gun I did had similar issues and I had to use a shot weighted mallet to cycle off the rear rails initially until it broke in. Still the tightest gun I own though!
I swapped the old CK Arms plastic grip to this new Frame/Slide, it worked. Then used the BT from the CK Arms on all the new parts and it worked. So, going to take a close looks at the Cheely Beavertail and see what's up. I'll post what the issue was and also the fix, soon, I hope.
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35 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:
Take the ejector out of the frame and retest the slide to frame fit for interference. In your second picture you can see some wear on the top of the ejector where it is likely jamming into the underside of the slide.
Most oversize ejectors need to be fit to match the dimensions of the internal cuts of the slide.
Thanks, did that backward test, all good. That surface area under the ejector is just me with 400 grit. Ejector is all good, no interference.
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I swapped the Trigger group (disco, Trigger, sear spring, strut) from my CK Arms, since that was the gun I used with this Cheely SS Grip first. No go,
. No going back. Pulled the Magwell off and it slid back. Not getting stuck on any parts, disconnector, safety, hammer, etc... just refuses to slide into the rear set of frame rails. The reason (or let's say opinion) I am thinking that Mainspring pressure going up to the Hammer Pin is causing the frame to flex. I could be wrong. Need to figure this sucker out. 
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10 minutes ago, zzt said:
EGW discos are long and a tad fat. I've never been able to use one as is. Also, you used an EGW Ti hammer strut. There is a problem (sometimes) with them and the Cheely GS. On two builds I've had to swap them out for different brands. If you round the bottom and shorten so it fits better (and deeper) into the MSH cap, sometimes that cures the problem. One or both of these things are too long. Also the strut may have the wrong bend for a Cheely GS and the bend is rubbing on the back of the GS. If you cannot get the strut fixed, a Cylinder & Slide or Extreme Engineering strut works 100%. BTW, I'm not knocking EGW. I use their Ti MSH cap and strut in my 1911 builds without issue. It's only when I switched to Cheely 2011 e2 SS grips that I occasionally had the problem.
BTW, no mainspring will cause a steel frame to flex.
Thanks zzt, that could be it. I'll try a different strut (I have 3). See if that works, cheers.
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1 minute ago, jwhittin said:
Just had a similar experience. In my case, I had replaced the disconnector and the new one was getting caught on the trigger leaf spring (I'm using a Clark 4 leaf spring). I suppose it could also get caught on the a 3 leaf spring or something else. Anyway, the disconnector would not depress and allow the slide to go past.
Something to check.
Good luck.
Thanks Jw. Disco looks good as is the sear spring. The slide is still about 1" away from the disco and 5/8" from the rear rails. Mystery for sure. Cheers.
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Picked up a well known Gun Builders Fitted XWF Slide/Frame Full Length Dust Cover (9mm) last Dec. No, not an Atlas, Brownells or Warwick. Name withheld, this isn't a "shovel poop on Company A thread". It's a really nice fit too, love it.
Building my 9 Major Open Gun. I have a CK Arms that I put together with a new slide, KKM Barrel, Cheely Grip and Magwell. Ran like a top. So now I've been getting this new gun together. Cheely Standard SS Grip, EGW Parts, etc.... The KKM 5.4" Bull Barrel has not been installed yet. Will also do some milling to the slide. Flat Top, lightened rear area, Zig Racker cut and slide cuts. Very similar to the CK Arms Limited Gun. But not the Tri-Top, just the 20 Degree Slide cuts with a .187 R.020" Endmill.
The Cheely Grip just slipped right on, nice fit. Did have to file maybe .004" off the lug for the bushing to fit (forward of the trigger guard). Nice slip fit. EGW Grip bushings fit great. Installed the EGW Lightened Trigger Kit, EGW sear spring, PT Safety. All looks good, nice fit. Added a EGW Ti strut rod and the Cheely beavertail. Did a little sanding at the bottom of the BT, just to get it to fit, looks good so far. Tested the Trigger pull at 3#, argh. That needs to be adjusted.
But..soon as I install the magwell and pin, the slide no longer will move back all the way, about 1 1/4" to go. Stuck at the front rails. Will not force anything at this point.
So, does that pressure from the 17# mainspring actually cause the frame to flex? Hate to try and lap this Slide/Frame, while the magwell is installed. It's a beautiful fit as is. I can remove the magwell with all the parts still installed and the slide works fine.
Have you seen this before and found a way to remedy this situation? Suggestions?
Thanks, LC
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You will get all kinds of responses here. I started 5 years ago in Open and the first Match I had to shoot Strong Hand, I couldn't hit a Barn at 10 yards. Like anyone that shoots competition, it's something I had to add to live fire practice. Then the Weak Hand Stages showed up, couldn't hit a Barn. So, added that to my practice. Some guys will cant their gun during weak hand. Cant the gun to the 2 O'clock position (lefthanded).
Takes time and practice, much better at SHO than 5 yrs ago, slightly better at WHO, but still need fine tuning.
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8 minutes ago, ChuckS said:
I think the OP is talking about IDPA.
Oops, my fault.
USPSA
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11 hours ago, matteekay said:
Is there any rule that prevents a shooter from re-holstering during a course of fire? 7.G explicitly legalizes it for PPDS but I don't see anything allowing/disallowing it for everyone else.
DQ if done in a Tunnel. 10.5.4
As long as the safety is applied during COF. I can see if someone needs 2 hands to climb up/down stairs, or other challenging structures. In a COF I think holstering your firearm will cost you time. Is there a particular reason you have this question? Someone on your squad did actually holster their gun during COF?
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1 hour ago, SeattleDude said:
MG 124gr JHP are available pretty much every day for about 30 min or so.
Lately been around 6am PST
Thanks SD, been trying to catch them at 6am, no luck. I gave up a year ago on Montana Gold and went to Everglades instead. Great accuracy in my Open Gun, they've been in stock often in the last month.
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Like some have added, I too like the CR Speed style. Just feels more secure when I am taping, scoring, RO'ing or running around. The block types are good too. I like dropping the muzzle/comp on the Pin and rocking the gun back into lock. Can actually hear it snap into place. Takes some adjusting but it is rock solid, held by the comp and trigger. I actually have the *bay knock off as a backup.
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most procedures on 1 stage
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It's going to be in the low to high 70's this weekend. I would check your ammo again. 127pf is pushing the edge. Also depends on your powder, temp sensitive? Have a good Match too, 16 stages plus chrono.
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17 hours ago, Explosiveo said:
It's really impossible to know. Open guns are like race cars. Every part is a consumable. So things are going to break. How often is a mystery. Depending on if the metal had any flaws to begin with. How well it was fitted. How the slide cuts and tri topping were done. What load you shoot. And on and on.
You could have a slide crack at 5,000 rounds. Or it could go 50,000 rounds. But eventually things will break and need to be replaced. This is just a cost of open, should be budgeted for and shouldn't be looked at as a bad thing.
Things can break and 100% not be the builders fault. Even if it breaks with low round count.
This is a reason that most large gun builders get out of building open guns eventually when they can. They are just a huge percentage of their warranty claims. Even when it's past warranty and your paying to fix it. Its time consuming.
So the only answer I can give you is IDK.
My current plan is to buy a new gun every year and sell my old one. So I never have a gun with a ton of rounds on it. This makes it less likely to have a huge failure at a major. Plus a gun with low wear and round count will fetch the best price. Yes. I am probably paying the cost of a slide replacement every year. But at least I can plan for it. It's not a surprise.
Your guess of 100,000-200,000 rounds is likley pretty high. Some people say .38sc guns last a bit longer. Not sure how much I buy that. But If I were budgeting. I would budget for a slide replacement every 30k rounds just to be on the safe side.
Yep, if you shoot Open, you will need to maintain your gun, how often?, depends. Good to know a few Gunsmiths and have a box of extra parts. Things can last for many Matches and things can go bad quickly. I wish they lasted 100k Rounds, but things happen (especially during a Match, Classifiers are when my failures show up
), then it's research time.
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1 hour ago, Johnnymazz said:
Thats a good idea Mark. I just bought 3 seperate tumblers from Berrys. They do a decent job. Wet cleaning just eliminates all the dirt from the cases, thats why I do the extra step. I use a gold sifting pan that I got from Amazon to rinse the brass, in the slop sink.
I use those too. I have the fine mesh (they stack very well) on the bottom to drain water and catch pins.
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2 hours ago, Cuz said:
I was thinking of doing it first, then cleaning the brass so the primer pockets get cleaned, but then I figured that would get the press pretty dirty since my brass is mostly range pickup from outdoors.
What are you guys doing?
Same here.
Tumble in Corn Media, with spent primers still in the cases (1 1/2hrs). Resize and remove spent primers. Wet tumble. Once I get to this point, I store the cleaned and sized brass until I am ready to reload (about 2k ready to go).
Then in the press, primer, bellmouth, powder, bullet, seating and Lee Full Length Die (just enough to remove the bellmouth) and into Ammo Boxes of 100. On the shelf I currently have 635 rounds ready for July. Then gradually reload 200-300 at a time to get the round count up for Aug.
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48 minutes ago, Ssanders224 said:
However, the 115s will be back soon, along with a new projectile option.
Can't wait, keep us post Ssanders, thanks.
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Only 1 Range that has 2 Stages down a 300 yard long gravel hill, about a 75' drop. If we get on Stage 7 then we go up and down the hill twice and end on Stage 6 at the bottom of the hill, again. Otherwise, it really doesn't matter, bring it on. It's the mental prepping I'll be doing days before and on the trip to the Match that I get my mindset collected. Closer to parking?, sure, that's always good to go.
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On 1/21/2021 at 8:28 AM, motosapiens said:
little girls can shoot fast splits, so yes, I think you can probably do it. However if you want to get good at shooting, you might be better off focusing on hitting stuff, and making quick transitions, etc.... don't get too carried away with splits because they are the least important thing. It's MUCH more important to shoot 2 aimed shots quickly at a 10-15 yard partial than to be able to double-tap a close target super fast.
This.
Best advice. I think we see people that are GM's and M's that are fast on the doubles and hope we can duplicate that. They've spent many hours firing and have very tuned guns/ammo. Getting fast in transitions is the best way to get a higher hit factor. Get those points and concentrate on the A zone. Hopefully it will burn into your muscle memory and eyes. Being a beginner, I had no idea what to expect at getting really good at this, still a low B, but making it work 1 Match at a time. It's not as easy as it looks, it takes time, practice, good mechanics, stage planning, tuned ammo, tuned gun, physical fitness, mindset, (man, I could go on and on), etc.... Stay with getting your hits as fast as you can and at your level. And move fast as you can smoothly. Or, pay for lessons.
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9 hours ago, Michael303 said:
I'm about to buy some endmills for a machine shop class that I'm taking in a few weeks followed by a race gun building class later this summer. Right now I've just got 1/8" to 1/2" square end mills in 1/16" increments in my cart. Are there any other must-have or nice-to-have end mills or other tooling that I should pick up while I'm at it?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Having a 16 year background in CNC/Manual Machining, I would wait until your class starts. Once your schooling has finished and you finally decide what you would build, get the tools needed. You might save yourself some $$$ by not buying tools you really don't need. Buy the tools your really need.
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3 hours ago, Blockader said:
Ssanders posting on this thread when bullets get added to the website is a massive service to competitive shooters. I will be a PD customer for life now.
Agree.
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I don't get it. What's the question?
You'll get responses and they will vary, might even go off the rails and the topic changes course (battle of the big brains
). Many will say, "Pay for Training". Sure, do it, if you have the $$$, time and ammo.
You look like you are doing fine. Some things to clean up, but you have good speed, good posture, fast draw etc... You should be a B soon, possible A by Sept. Just keep at it, there are so many little things to gain and really hard to learn all at once. Get with an M or GM and ask questions. We have people that shoot our Matches and film themselves. They'll post their full Matches on UTube. Gives a good idea how they plan their Stages and footwork. Keep at it, you are doing fine.
Holstered gun canted inward toward the thigh?
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
You mean pointing from his hip to his twig and berries? Maybe I chose the wrong words, "almost horizontal"? You had to have been there to see it. RO's jumped all over it.
He was in compliance and not pointed more than 3' from his feet while standing relaxed. But dang, dude was for sure "riding the edge".