NoKimberDave

I use one of these on my rifle and really like it: https://troyind.com/products/grip-control-blk Aggressive grip pattern and not too fat. Don't like beavertails on AR grips. Use one of these on my SBR and love it for that: https://www.magpul.com/products/moe-k®-grip-–-ar15-m4 It's fairly tiny though. Big hands need not apply. Both have the steeper grip angle on the dangle. Gotta have the correct angle on the dangle.

BUMP for info. Anyone using a 20GA in 3 gun still? Anyone have experience with the 3"mag 26" barrel 11-87 for this?

SLR makes a Ti block. 1 gram lighter than the V7. And a couple bucks cheaper. http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=499

Take it easy, yer making us look bad.

Nice. Just took the sight off right to the ramp. I like that. This is what I am thinking I want. Seen a few guys who will do that and add the pinned front sights. The Weigland requires the to be machined off as well and machines a slot into the top of the barrel. I would rather avoid that, but I like the interchangeability of that system. Still not sure what I am going to do. Would be interesting to know the answer to this. I am not sure myself. EDIT: Looks like Toolguy knows the answer.

I hear you. Couple thoughts: I agree this is a great revolver. That's why I bought it and not a new one. Found a shooter grade gun with no box and no papers and have not the slightest guilt in preparing it for lots of shooting. Guns should be shot, imo. I have no interest in owning gun so that I can pull it out once in a while, fawn over it, and use my spendy camera to take pics to post on the internet. I will shoot this gun a lot. It will be used for what it was designed and intended for. Why? Because I do in fact appreciate it. Already have over a thousand rounds through it. With that in mind, a stainless steel front sight is stupid. It's useless. It becomes polished by reholstering and drawing. That is why there is nobody in the entire world that actually shoots guns who would want the front sight to be shiny stainless steel. I have never heard a sight company even making one available (excepting some of these S&W's). Because it is useless and nobody who actually shoots guns would buy it. Front sights and sight sets are probably the most common change on a handgun. Because it is important to be comfortable with them. This gun is no exception. I will put a decent front sight on it, and likely a rear sight as well. I took off the smooth target grips and stuck them in a box. They looked good in pictures. As to the hammer and trigger: I got extras of this vintage sitting in a box to use. They're available all over. You may or may not disagree, but I do not consider this some kind of "collector" piece and don't consider adding useful sights "chopping it up". And, if you really want this gun everything is for sale if the money is right! I have several old guitars I use as well. Including a rare G&L made my Leo Fender himself. While there are certainly those who would stick it in a closet and wait for it to increase in value, I think Leo would appreciate the fact that it gets played, and is well loved.

He is excellent, indeed. He has already worked on this gun and he did a perfect job. He was the first guy I talked to. Maybe I will wait him out or corner him at a match and guilt him into it. I know he could do the machining I need. He is busy for a reason!

Meh, the thought of S&W nanny's going over cubic millimeter of my gun and trying to chisel me down for every nick and scratch and then going on the search for a 686-5 is in decent condition has me thinking I'd rather shave my head with a cheese grater! Not easy to find those as -4's and 5's seem to be scarce. The issue with the early no dashes and -1's was solved with a recall. I am keeping this gun, as I like it and it shoots well. It's not a collectors piece, Collectors of these want perfect guns with box and papers and are very picky. This ain't one of those, as I actually use it. Going to put a front sight on it, the only question is which one. It's either the Weigland system or find a guy who can machine it like the factory SSR.

Thanks for the response man! Point of clarification: The S&W sight system as found on the SSR accepts interchangeable blades like the Weigland. It is not to be confused with the standard S&W pinned front sight. That's why I am wondering why a lot of people just don't machine it like that rather than add the Weigland. As it should be a relatively easy job similar to what you have done on your MDL. 15. I think it would need a spring and detent though, which should be easy to achieve. I may take your advice and do the hammer myself, as I am not afraid to attack something with a Dremel. Hide your feed ramps! As to the OT stop: I don't know, I'd loctite it and don't see it coming out? I have them on many handguns and haven't had a problem. I see your point but over travel is a bummer. Would love to have the name of your guy, I am right in Raleigh. If it is Joel, he's stacked up for a few months and isn't taking work right now. Which sucks because I knwo he could likely do it!

I have a pretty nice 686 no-dash. However, it has the SS integral front sight. It's so useless that words escape. I have to wear sunglasses just to look at it, much less shoot it. When the sun is right, I have friends gather around to marvel at the light coming off of it! It's almost Biblical. I really want the S&W interchangeable front sight system, like the one that comes on the SSR and other modern models. It seems to me that a gunsmith could just machine off the sight down to the ramp, then cut a trench the correct width, then drill a lateral hole. Just like they must do at S&W. But I have had a hard time finding anybody who has done this, or can do it. Alternately, I have found many install the Weigland system. I like this, but don't see why it is much easier than what I posted above. -Any body heard of anyone doing it like the S&W system? Or, of any alternatives? -I also want to have the hammer bobbed and an overtravel stop installed. I have looked at SDM Fabricating and Pinnacle Customs to do this, so any opinions of those guys, or alternatives to them would be great. Thanks for your time and sorry if this question has been beat to death!

I installed the Sentry 7 clamp-on under a MI M-Lok ultralight, and it just cleared. So you should be ok with the UTG Pro rail.

Neat. Subscribed for future info.

Welcome to the madness, Dave. Where do I send my subscription fee to keep this stuff coming .... :roflol: :roflol: It's FREE man, no subscription needed! Thank you Sir.

Thanks Tony. I was serious about the beard. If you saw the beard, you would want to date me. Trust me.

Hello, long time lurker. Wonderful forum here. Fighting out of Raleigh, NC, but originally from Oakland, Ca. Smart moving choice, indeed. I am well known as the best shooter in the entire state. I would be known as the best shooter in your state, but happily for you I do not live there. I used to be an operative for a secret organization (can't tell you which or I'd have to eliminate you), and you would be envious of my gun collection and everything else about me, including my epic beard. I have no Kimber (prefer my CZ) and like long walks on the beach. Surprisingly, I am a cat person. I intend to educate everyone on this forum on how to properly grip a handgun, the required thumb-over AR grip, the ridiculousness of RayBans, and the proper oil for their Ford (you had better not be driving a Chevy...and if you do please keep it to yourself). I'll poke a stick in yer eye no matter if you have a Glock or a 1911. I would thank ya'll, but trust me, after you read a couple of my posts, you'll be thanking me! Cheers, NoKimberDave

If I can't get it working with the stuff I have I am ditching it and going back to my old buffer and spring, which never failed. Although the smoothness is nice! And it being a relatively cheap part, it's not going to hurt much either way. I can stick it in the pile and revisit it later. I have found at my level of shooting (not a champion by any means, lol), reliability is the key factor in me scoring decently. The thing about the regular buffer is that if you give it too much gas, is still functions. That said, I am not throwing the towel in yet.

Thanks for the responses fellas. -The gas block hasn't moved. Plenty of gas from port as the gun was overgassed, so I went to the adj. block. -Similar temperature to when I set it (with 10-15 degrees) -I am UNsure if the adj. screw moved, and I am thinking it actually opened up a bit -gas ring wear should be fine, but I will check, thanks for suggestion -I'll inspect the bolt/bcg friction and think about a new gas ring Thing is, it was working great, so I hesitate to throw any money or parts at it. I suspect that there is too much gas. This is the irritating thing about the Kies: no detents. If it had detents this would be a lot easier as I could note precisely where it is at. Because of the sensitivity of the adj. screw (1/10 turn makes big difference) it is hard to know exactly where it was/is. If it was too much gas, what would the symptoms be the same? Do the two buffers contact each other in normal operation? Or, if the front buffer contacts the rear buffer does that slow down the whole cycle by "soaking up" some of the spring power similar to a shock on a car or motorcycle bottoming out?

First post: -I have a 16" mid with a Kies adj. gas bloc. -Using a standard Spikes BCG -Milspec Carbine spring and ULW Buffer I ran it at the range and backed out the gas until it locked back. Gave it a hair more gas and it seemed to run great. Really smoothed out the whole cycling action. Took it to a match and had some problems. It would load a round then "click" no bueno. I would rack another round and it would fire then "click". So I gave it a little more gas. Many failures after that. Indented primers, but no ignition. So I think my bolt is not locking up? At one point it was every round, so I put it up and borrowed a friends rifle to finish. Any ideas? Could too much gas cause this? I am using Eno's slide glide on BCG, could this be an issue, slowing it down? Guess I am just not sure if it is going to fast or too slow? The Kies GB is irritating a little bit in that the gas screw seems to turn so freely and it's hard to get a precise idea where it is at and it seems very sensitive. Might go with a SLR at some point. Any ideas? Thanks for any help! Relative noob to this stuff.