brian45acp

So I tried 2 sets and had no luck with them. First set from midway I couldn’t get taper die to work so I called Lyman. They said they revised the die body to be longer and so I bought direct from them. When they arrived the threads were galled badly but aside from that I had the same issue. On a 1050 with 1 inch thick toolhead I can’t thread the die any lower and had the lock ring hanging onto the mast thread if the die body. The micro meter head would screw all the way down and not touch the case and provide any crimp. I can’t figure out what the issue is but Lyman didn’t seem to be much help and returning to them was hell. Eventually I got most my money back but even after all that I really loved the dies but for the taper die. This has me hopeful I missed something and I would love to have them again. Are any of you guys running these dies? here is a vid I did to show the issues. Never mind the measurement it’s exactly 1.00 inches. I had the calipers not level trying to do it with one hand. I took a second video to show the true measurement. Right now I’m back to all Dillon dies except my spring loaded hold down dies from mighty armory. I am using the alpha dropper but hate the sticking so I’m going to use that in a Lee expander die body above priming in my CNC toolhead. This will keep the aloha dropper from being floating and I won’t get the suction pop upon release we all hate at the powder station. The Lyman dies were so nice I miss them and don’t want to be dumb trying them again but figured you guys might be using them without issue. I will say I had expansion just right to where my rounds dropped in and out of the car gauge even before the crimp station so I really didn’t need crimp but I don’t want to accept a taper crimp die that has zero usability either.

Mighty armory has spring loaded hold down dies. I use one with the stronger yellow spring for swage and the green spring for priming. This allows me to use mixed brass and the spring absorb the case web thickness differences. I got the CNC toolhead. Basically anything providing hold down makes for better primer seating. I used Lyman pro dies and their expander die over the priming station just fine. I did have tk modify the primer bar bracket for clearance just fyi. I can’t upload other pics cause they are too large or some crap. This one shows the hold down pin.

I am going through all this now as well. The reason for change are the ginex primers not seating like CCI. The non hold down of the prime station has always been an issue but most ignore it and crank the adjustment pin more to excessively shove the primer higher into the case. With hold down I get perfectly seated primers with no deformation and they are all below flush. Most these guys I bet if we took a razor edge laid across the headstamp we would see the primers are flush or slightly high and they dont realize it. CNC shooter still has toolhead and is the only one out there that is made of steel. I just got mine last week and he has 25 left. I have a mighty armory spring loaded hold down die in that station and it just hardly clears the primer arm bracket. I had to do some shaving of that bracket to get better clearance. I also use mixed brass and the everglades screw hold down gives me issues so that was out. If you dont want to go down the rabbit hole like I did I would go to level 10 innovations and get their spring loaded hold down die. it is made for non threaded toolheads and you wont have to get a new tool head. I tried mighty armory dies but that didnt go so well so right now I just ordered Lyman pro dies. One of the dies is an expander flare die and I plan to use that in the priming station which from the looks of it would have more clearance to that primer bar bracket, even though my modified bracket is good to go now. So one way or the other I am covered. I either am going to expand/flare in the priming station with the CNC toolhead or continue using my spring loaded hold down die and then use my alpha dropper in the powder station to expand/flare. I have always uses LEE under side die and factory crimp die but after all these years of loading I want to fine tune my ammo for better quality so here I am screwing with shhit and driving myself nuts lol. In terms of why you are not passing case gauge that is something else going on. If you are using lead bullets it could be a variance in sizing giving you issues. Using those coated bullets is budget friendly but there is a difference between those and Montana gold or precision delta for sure. Its part of what you accept for the savings.

Really nice toolhead by the way. Glad I grabbed 2 from the last batch they are making. Those of you with this toolhead I have some questions. The top has tapped holes for something and I don’t know what. They are blind holes so it would be to bolt something on top. It won’t let me upload a pic cause the file is too large. Also they made it to work with no ratchet system. The threaded pin that retains the ratchet has no flange to retain the ratchet like the Dillon one. I think most of you run without the ratchet so I guess this is why. I never have but it does seem nicer without it. I wish the hole was threaded the same size as Dillon so I could choose but no such luck. I don’t know if it’s my OCD or not but I’ve always noticed if let’s say I have just 1 piece of brass in the sizing station and I lower the handle the tool head at the very end of the bottom stroke will tilt ever so slightly. I have to squat down and eyeball straight across the toolhead to see it. Obviously the shell plate isn’t loaded up and there is uneven pressure at one position as opposed to being evenly spread out once loaded up. But is this just what happens and not an issue? Little Dillon quirks make me eye that mark 7 Apex 10 press. It looks so precision and perfect which checks all my OCD boxes. I am all Dillon and have been for so many years I so I’d hate to start all over. Are these presses really that nice more than a 1050? Any thoughts?

That’s good someone else is going to continue making these. Still waiting for mine to show up. Little scary sending venmo money without protection but it seems most you guys here have bought from this CNC shooter guy and had no issues.

It’s like you have to when you hear they aren’t making them ever again. I live in s#!thole cali so I always have this mentality. If you like a gun or ammo etc you better buy extra cause it will be gone later.

Scored the toolhead from CNC shooter. This is their last batch and because of that I bought 2 and will save the other for whatever reason. I was bummed to have figured out the best way for primer support was a threaded toolhead only to find out CNC was out of business. So I wasn’t going to buy just 1 lol. also mighty armory just released their version of the primer hold down spring loaded die so this was perfect pairing together. I will get my 1050 back up and running once the parts arrive and post a video.

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Thanks, I did email him this morning asking for some insight.

Good idea on the Dillon plate. I called them earlier this week and they did upgrade it. But the key is you are running multiple presses which I really am not planning to do. Does the new Dillon plate sit nice and tight with no perceivable gap under it? The FFB plate is 23 thousandths gap under it and I don’t like it so I went back to OEM.

Need a threaded toolhead for it. Also Mighty Armory has a spring loaded hold down die. I spoke to Wayne yesterday and it should be ready. I just bought all his dies so I’d go with his.

Thanks guys. I’m aware of the level 10 one and have recently bought just about all their stuff. Favorites are the primer adjust lock down pin and their return spring with bushing. The index pawl spring upgrade is cool but it takes some micro adjusting to get the index roller to not contact the spring. Basically I have my pawl stopped not touching the shell plate at its end travel and it still throws the plate to the detent ball which actually has allowed for much smoother indexing. For the level 10 primer hold down pin in the priming station I’m having a hell of a time measuring the ID hole on the Dillon toolhead. I have nice digital calipers but it’s a bitch to do. Like an idiot I just canceled my order for one thinking I scored the CNC toolhead but now it’s back to square one. Kevin gonna think I’m an idiot lol. It really makes the most sense at this point though. I need spring loaded to account for varying brass web width.

So there isn’t an issue with ginex but they are sized differently so I was getting high primers. If you adjust the primer depth they get to a point of deformation or have a half moon ring in them. One guy at the match showed me his and thinks the ring is a sign they are fully seated lol. They all go bang but I’m chasing quality reloads and not just good enough. This is what has me going with MA dies as opposed to the Lee U and FCD die I’ve used for years. Anyway, the primer issue is we really should have a hold down feature in that station to get squarely seated primers. With the Everglades hold down die you will realize you can back way off the primer seating depth rod because now you have this hold down feature. This to me indicates there was a lot of movement in the case and shell plate flex being overcome to fully seat a primer when no hold down die was in place. Ginex seem very soft compared to any primer I’ve used and they deform easily. This and the fact they were high is what got me going down this path. I really don’t want to chase same head stamp brass so I’m going with the hold down die of some sort. At this point it may have to be OEM tool head and the level 10 primer die thing. I agree the alloy toolhead doesn’t seem up to the task.

I just bought that and not having any luck. Using mixed head stamps is the issue so if not spring loaded I can’t account for varying web thickness. The level 10 thingy is the best option I found but I had hoped to simply all this and get a nice threaded tool head. It won’t be the worst idea to go back to level 10 in the OEM tool head with all the nighy armory dies. I bought the alpha dropper funnel also and it’s ok but I still get that nasty stick on the release. Wayne at MA is cool AF and I been talking to him. He says this will all stop with his dies and suggestions so I sent that route. what started all this is ginex primers being different than my CCI. The Dillon 1050 having 1 setting for primer depth sucks and the flex happening because of no hold down during priming makes for some interesting deformed primers. The Everglades hold down die is simple and cheap but with mixed head stamps not the best idea. with the Everglades hold down die and the setup I was using I also get some toolhead flex toward the side at the bottom of the travel. There is too much uneven pressure going on so here I am on a quest for perfection. what do you guys think about this Armanov toolhead? Super cool features and especially the built in light. Worried it’s a POS though. Wording saying upgrade for rigidity for less flex means it was s#!t before and most likely still is. It’s also alloy and not steel.

Yeah that’s sucks. It looks like I won’t be able to get one. I may have to go back to original plan and get the level 10 primer station hold down thingy he made. Sucks cause I placed an order and they canceled it thinking this toolhead would be a better route.

I messaged CNC shooter but don’t have a reply as of yet. I’d really like to have a threaded hole over the priming station. I’ve already bought all Mighty Armory dies and he’s making a spring loaded hold down die for the priming station which would solve lots of issues. I’ve loaded for 20 years but got the itch to upgrade and learn a bit morning the quest for perfection. Anyone have input on the CNC shooter tool head or perhaps this one? The Armanov had cool features but something tells me it’s a internet China mass produced POS. https://usa-shop.armanov.com/products/quick-change-toolhead-assembly-for-dillon-super-1050

I think I’m going to just put the OEM shell plate back in. I bought the FFB plate but I don’t like how lose it sits. Once adjusted correctly for case feeding the plate is quite loose and you can wobble it with your finger up and down. This is why I wanted hold down dies but I’ll just go back to dillons shell plate and avoid the headache. The FFB plate is thicker to be stronger so the feed lips have been lowered and the entire plate needs to ride higher to be flush to the feeding surface. The stock plate I am 1 thousandth underneath for a gap and the FFB I am 19 thousandth. It’s a massive amount of wiggle because of it. I’ve ran this press for years but just broke it all down to service it with grease and replace all springs and worn parts etc. I bought some upgrades as well but I think simple is the way to go.

I guess I’m out of the loop with all the new fancy dies and need to learn what’s out there. what are these FW decap dies? Then the Lyman M die and the Redding micrometer die? In station 1 I decap and size with the MGW U die then station 2 have the Dillon expander/backer die which offsets the swage rod. The priming station I have the backer die and then I have the upgraded alpha powder dropper. After this is the bullet feeder then the stock Dillon seating die and last the LE FCD. I would like to upgrade dies but don’t understand how these new ones would fit in.

Does that seating die thread down to touch shell plate? I need one that does this but doesn’t affect seating depth. The Dillon seating die doesn’t do this and as you thread it in more the OAL is affected. I’ve never used those fancy does but need someone who has to confirm I can thread it down to touch the shell plate.

Yeah I’ve heard of doing this but I don’t have unused stations. I have the MR bullet feeder so that station won’t work. This is why I think the only option I have would be to find a seating die that screws down until it touches the shell plate just like the FCD and undersize die. But it would mean seating depth isn’t dependent on the die in the tool head adjustment but rather internally somehow. I’ve seen those dance micro adjustment dies but I don’t know which would work for this. This would give me 3 stations toward the front that hold the shell plate and the primer backer die toward the opposite side. I suppose the swage and backer die accomplish almost the same purpose so basically that’s 5 stations holding the plate down if I can find a good seating die.

I’m trying to find as many dies as possible which would hold the shell plate down for consistency. I just got the FFB shell plate and adjusted it as instructed. It floats higher that the OEM and has a space underneath which makes sense as it cycles around to reduce drag and wear. But when you down stroke the handle the dies will then need to hold it down to the base for consistency. I want to hold my shell plate down so I get nice primer seating depth and no plate flex. Right now I have the LEE undersize die and the FCD both threaded down and touch the shell plate to hold it. Those are both at the first and last station so to triangulate pressure I have the Everglades primer hold down die as well. The swage station has the backer die which also holds the shell plate down as well but not in the same way I would like which is the die threaded down to touch the shell plate. I think the only other die to hold the shell plate would be a seating die but I don’t know which one would thread down to touch the shell plate like the FCD and sizing die then still allow for seating depth adjustment. Please let me know what you guys think.

Once you find the correct combo of stainless and tungsten weights the O rings will last nearly forever. at first I would see then flattened or chewed up. Now that I have the correct combo of weights my O rings have no wear after 2 years of weekly match use.

ETS is well known to crack. I almost never see them in a match for good reason. But I guess some people like clear mags lol.

Goliath’s are just well made and ets are crap. Too many of them crack when ejected that I’ve seen and heard about at the matches. Nobody good runs those mags and I call that a clue. But not needing 50 rounds is a valid point. Being able to have them and downloading makes more sense to me. So far so good on my recent changes. There obviously is some factor of mag bodies wearing out going on but I wish it was more obvious and measurable.

Reduced buffer mass back to 3T and 2S. I think some where along this and I switched from that to 4T and 1S. I used new mags and downloaded 5 rounds in my oem glock mags with Taylor Goliath’s. Ran today’s match no issues at all. Let’s see if I can keep it like that.