brian45acp

Doesn’t make sense. 2 things hold the safety in and that’s the detent and interference with the trigger group. You sure the detent is out and not stuck up in there? I use a magnet once the grip is off to grab the detent and remove it fully.

JP5 didn’t have an adjustable safety drum. You gonna feel silly but I bet I know why you can’t remove the safety. Did you remove the grip so that the spring loaded detent disengages from the safety?

This is the way. Trigger in but tipped at an angle then slide safety drum in. Trigger pins go in after this step. Yes jp loves loctite and my new best friend is a really cool torch I just got. Just used it to get the handguard and barrel but off. Pin point accuracy with the flame is much needed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09RNGD9RM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Yeah sorry, spell check. CLR

Yeah I tried grease and oil and no good. I coat the living crap out of the comp then after the match clean it then do it again. Was very easy to clean after doing this then I re apply it again. I let it dry then hit it again. Not sure more means better but hate cleaning this vertical comp and the one shot works so good I’m going to use it and a lot of it. I noticed it also helps remove carbon also. I’ve tried so much stuff. I had an ultrasonic cleaner with Lucas products in it and it didn’t do much either. I read about CLR but I have seen vids of it staining stainless. I also read the reaction with lead makes a toxic gas. Give it a try. Cheap and easy to do.

Haha, I’ve always cleaned guns after shooting. Just found the magic to a clean comp. Tried all kinds of stuff including welders spatter spray. The best crap is the hornady one shot case lube. No more dremel with bras brush attachment to clean the comp. Mostly it will wipe out with Q tips and I use bore tech c4 carbon remover.

Amazing with the 60 lock and white spring 124jhp 142pf which is about 1150fps. No malfunctions and so soft. Just wanted others to know not to be worried about trying the 60 lock. It’s well worth it. I do clean my rifle to like new condition every match just fyi.

Seen so many posts saying the 70 and 60 lock pieces are picky. I started with the 70 and it ran perfect. Just got the 60 and it also runs perfect so far. Will shoot a match tomorrow to know for sure. Love the 60 lock piece and the dot is very stable. I am using the white spring which is the lightest. 124gr jhp 133pf the gun runs and locks back on last round. 124jhp 142pf no issues and locks back. Settled on this load for the 60 lock piece. Brass is hitting 7ft away which is just under the 9ft recommendation from JP. Just wanted to let others know not to be scared to try the 60 and 70 lock pieces. I tested the lock up by using a wood dowel squib rod from the muzzle end to unlock the bolt. It’s is a crazy amount of lock which explains why the dot is so stable. Way less weight in the bolt and SCS and now the lightest spring so it doesn’t slam forward.

Ok yeah I get it now, thanks. I had a quarter on my gmr13 to pre load the SCS a bit. I am glad you told me this because it wasn’t apparent why it was sticking. I did try this mod and it worked awesome. I was too nervous running it in the match. I like to tinker but not modify outside how the factory intended. Once I try the 60 lock and white “lightest” spring I’ll decide to use this spring or not. It felt really good though. I was worried about it further shortening travel but it ran.

I think I know what you mean. Have a pic? I imagine jp5 with hydraulic buffer would feel amazing. I did notice it’s heavier that the SCS though.

You tried the hydraulic buffer in the jp5? I have it in my bag for next week to practice with. I installed it here at the house and noticed it sticks at full compression and I have to jiggle the charge handle.

You must not have read it all. I said good advice and I agree. But most posts I’ve seen saying what doesn’t work clearly does regarding lock pieces etc. I am still curious about the smoke products but think it’s a cool upgrade not a functional one. A guy yesterday had his rifle insane light with titanium bolts and pins in addition to all the smoke items. He said it felt too jumpy. I’ll shoot it next week and see. The crap is all so subjective it’s hard to ask others about.

Depends where you are at and I agree. I spent since 2017 with a stock gmr13 and only this year did I down tune the SCS and drop from a 148pf to 130pf. It helped my game a ton. I’m at a point where I can utilize these small differences now and it’s taken a long time to get there. I’m not decided on a full Smoke outfit or not. I did just receive my 60 lock and springs so I’m going to play with combos. The 70 had been running great despite guys here saying it’s iffy. Shot with a guy yesterday running 60 lock and he had ammo issues but it ran. The squibs were his fault not the guns. When it did run the brass dribbled out but his loads so weak. Point being most here say 60 lock is no good. Talked to JP and their guy uses the 60 just fine. I come here for the best info from experienced guys but I’m starting to see it’s getting to be like other forums lol. This last statement not directed at you but just being a general statement. Nice pair jp5s by the way.

Haven’t hacked into my jp5 yet but this is what you need. I have it for my gmr13’s and apparently it’s the same process but on jp5 barrel doesn’t come out and most caution not to try either. Talking to guys here about going all smoke products say it makes the rifle snappy. Jp also told me that going to light is a “thing”. I’m wanting stability and balance with the least dot movement so for now I don’t plan on going carbon fiber.

I spoke with Jp this week and one of their guys runs the 60 so I ordered one. He is 115gr and 148-150pf. My thought is the 60 with lightest spring and bump my load just a little to about 140pf. I’ve read so much on here about the 70 not working with 130pf and I run it perfectly so I’m going to figure it out myself.

Well my wave spring seems to feel amazing. I’ll have to do some matches with it before knowing it’s reliable. So far just ripping off rounds in practice it felt really good. I agree tungsten is just going to disrupt the dot more but I always trip out about doing mods. I guess if it works then send it. Stronger spring would also disrupt the dot I imagine. I am running the 70 lock and am interested in the 60. I talked with JP and their guy is running the 60 but with 115gr and 148pf. I am at 124gr 130-135pf so I think the 60 would not run. So many combos it makes your head hurt. I’ll likely do what I did with my gmr13 and just shoot the gun after sticking with something simple.

I’m curious as to the thought on the spring Max is using. He’s using the heaviest AR10 spring but I don’t know the difference of jp springs AR15 vs AR10 to understand why he chose that. The spring mod I tried worked great but I’m scared to tinker and change things from how the rifle is supposed to run. I may try 1 tungsten weight on the stock SCS and see how that goes but it’s increasing reciprocating mass.

with this I don’t need tungsten or heavy springs which just slam the bolt forward and move the dot more. It seems to cushion the end travel of the buffer very well. I can’t think of anything “wrong” with this idea but chime in with thoughts please.

Just tried this out and it worked amazing. https://www.mcmaster.com/product/1561T625 Placed behind the plastic bumper on the SCS. I’m running 70 lock piece and stock SCS with 124gr 133-135pf jhp. Even less dot movement. Going to run it next week in the match but during practice I get lock back and no malfunctions. Ran the SD3G trigger and it’s nice but I don’t think magical vs a prepped and adjusted jp component trigger. I’m on the fence about this one.

That’s not good. I would talk to Ben. Out of all the people who have answered he’s been the best and knows everything. I also emailed them about my trigger and didn’t get a reply until I emailed a second time. I was offered another trigger but it never came so I called and left a message with the guy who was taking care it. They are a solid company but probably busy so follow up on it. I spent so much money on this thing I hope not to have issues. My gmr13 has been strong for 70k+ rounds.

You guys talking about brass marks or the alloy upper is damaged? Jp is really good about taking care of their products so I wouldn’t worry about it.

Installed the SD3G trigger using jp pins and it’s a no go for me. The retaining clip inside the hammer pin hole needs to use the stock grooved pin. Using the jp pin causes pressure on the pin and with each hammer follow the pin rotates in the frame hole. In time this will wear out the hole. Measuring the jp pins vs the Geissele pins they are nearly identical but I’m too scared to go to a smaller pin. JP advertises their pins as .156 but I measure .1555 and the geissele I measure .1550 so they are probably fine to use but my ocd doesn’t like it lol. The trigger isn’t good feeling anyway but just in dry fire that reset is fast as hell. No really defined wall or anything you would say “that is a nice trigger” but I understand it’s purpose is speed and it’s that and feels good enough. Going to stick to jp trigger and pins.

Awesome thanks. I’ll go order it all.

This is why I would love to go with smoke parts. I’ve built my last gmr13 upper and it wasn’t hard. Is swapping the jp5 handguard easy? I’m nervous because the barrel is different and I don’t know what to expect. Another guy here posted pics of his barrel and it looks different.

Sounds like I should leave it alone lol. I am going to try the SD3G trigger because most guys here and Max say it’s awesome. But the other parts I am too worried to mess with. Some local guys did the handguard swap but I also know they don’t care about things like loctite or torque specs lol.