brian45acp

The trunion is on the other side inside where the bullets feed. This part doesn’t affect the barrel but side.

Thanks. I’ve installed jp handguard before but I thought the jp5 is different. I have the special tool for the jp barrel nut as well. I have seen posts of people saying not to mess with the jp5 barrel which confuses me because I thought the barrel nut holds the barrel in like all the other pcc AR type rifles.

Just fyi all the jp triggers work so long as they aren’t modules. There is plenty of space in there for component triggers which is what this sd3g trigger looks like. Mine arrives Monday so I’ll play with it. The guys here confirmed jp pins will work so that’s all I was concerned about. I don’t want to be using smaller pins than what we’re originally in the jp. This has always been a pain after using jp pins/triggers but settling on jp triggers isn’t settling either way. So if you have to stay jp no big deal. The won’t work in pcc part I heard is due to burst fire because the recoil in pcc is more than AR. Also bolt design of pcc is different. But the jp5 is different and while it is pcc the bolt is much different and the bump firing shouldn’t happen.

I’d love some pics of how you guys changed the handguard. I understand it’s not typical AR barrel installed so I’m not wanting to mess with it yet.

What are thoughts on all the smoke composites items for the jp5? They certainly are cool but I’m worried is a cool and not functional upgrade. Going lighter doesn’t seem to be needed but wouldn’t it also bring back dot bounce and recoil?

Just wanted to let you guys know jp took care of me. The set screw is a “plug” so they did not cut corners or anything. The polishing may have been skipped but also they changed methods and it may have been prepped but then refinished. Either way it’s all good and I was taken care of in the end.

Sounds good. I bought the Geissele safety so I don’t have any worry of it working. Is that J hook removable? I guess all it’s going to do is rub on the pin so with some grease in there will be fine. Shot my jp EZ trigger today and it feels really nice but I’m looking to see how much faster I can be with this Geissele trigger.

Thank you. I placed my order and also the Geissele safety.

Got the trigger coming. Will the JP adjustable safety work with this trigger? Did some more reading here and seems jp safety won’t work. I ordered the Geissele safety as I’m sure it works with their triggers.

Thank you. So the oversized pins fit? Isn’t there a j clip inside the hammer to retain those oem groove pins? the eclipse hyper fire has those j clips and I couldn’t get it out so that didn’t work out. how do you like the trigger? I’ve got mine tuned pretty nice now which is the jp EZ trigger. I’ve not used 2 stage triggers but the light take up seems like it would be nice for pcc match long shots.

I think I’m being picky. I got my back up trigger installed and if I dink around with it enough I can get it to creep. So I tried my old triggers and they do it as well but a bit less. Of course they are well broken in. Curious about they 3 gun trigger you guys talked about. But jp uses oversized pins so I’ve always figured that’s a no go because the other triggers use mil spec sized pins which are .002 smaller. Small pins in a large hole should mess up the frame over time. So how are you guys using this 3 gun trigger?

That’s the issue. You now have a smaller pin in a larger hole which over time should beat the lower up. This is the part I hate about the jp pins because now I feel stuck. Oh well.

How are you guys using this 3 gun trigger with jp pins? jp pins are oversized and you can’t just start using a smaller pin than what was in there or the holes get beat up.

Yeah I’m not happy. So I pulled the trigger and am more pissed. They put a short screw in the sear engagement collar that doesn’t even extend through the bottom. This is why I had so much creep because it was “fake adjusted”. From the top it looks like everything is fine until you remove the trigger and look underneath. Only the sear face of the trigger was polished but the disco, hammer hook, and hammer sear surface were not. I have called them and they asked for pics via email which I sent. Of course they offer to send it in but now I’m without my rifle and have to deal with shipping via FFL. I can do the trigger myself but I shouldn’t have to. I don’t have the necessary screw to fix this trigger but for a different reason they already have some coming to me. Luckily I have a brand new EZ trigger from them I had bought a while back which I had them prep and polish. I hit it a bit more to really smooth it up and sill install this trigger today. I’m going to also install the adjustable safety because the one it came with wasn’t and had a little movement in the trigger with safety on which I don’t like. Both my gmr13’s are amazing so I am bothered by a clear effort to short cut on this jp5. Putting a fake screw is unacceptable. s#!t happens and I accept that but when someone made a clear effort to cut corners it angers me.

Spoke to JP and all their component triggers work in the jp5. Sometimes they don’t prep and do all the polishing depending on production demand. Jp makes amazing triggers so I’m going to pull this one and stone then polish per their vids. I’m going to reset the seer engagement and over travel screws as well. It just needs to be refined and some time spent on it.

Just got my Jp5 and the trigger is not like my gmr13. That trigger was so perfect and I bought another EZ trigger that I had jp prep for my AR, also super nice trigger. The jp5 trigger is pretty good so I’m not trying to say it’s not. I don’t know it can be beat by a non jp Trigger and it seems options are limited anyway. The jp5 with safety on I can feel movement in the trigger and I don’t see the set screw to eliminate that movement like the other safeties from jp. I also can make the trigger creep quite a bit which doesn’t seem very jp. I am going to give jp a call but am mildly interested in what you guys are doing with this 3 gun trigger. My concern are the pins it comes with have that groove in them which means there is a wire inside the trigger barrel to retain the pins. Jp uses oversized pins and putting in mil spec pins means a wobbly pin and it will mess up the recover pin holes. That wire inside the trigger barrel won’t allow the jp pins to go in so using them I don’t think is possible. So how are you guys doing this?

So close. My seeing eye dog could never have figured this out for me. Thanks man

lol, what did I do?

Thanks for the easy button.

Selling my Gen2 Scheel. Is it cool to do that here or is there a specific thread to do that?

Got to shoot mine today and am not blown away. I will say that my wave spring idea felt a lot better than without it. The issue I had is the quarter bent lol. It must really be slamming back there and my loads are not hot. I ditched the wave spring and had the best feel with 2 heavy springs in position 1 and 2. But the wave spring is definitely worth playing with. I swapped to my JP SCS with 4 tungsten and 1 stainless with the lightest spring then shot one steel target in pairs. Then put the Scheel in and did the same on another identical steel target. The JP setup had slightly better grouping and the results were so close I am not going to venture into something new. So I will stick with JP and be selling the Scheel. I would say the Scheel is a much easier approach to just put it in and be done than what it took for me to finally tune the JP SCS just right.

Most likely you are right. When I hit the range I just wanted to have all options in hand to test. I have Coreys short stroke kit also to try. In hand the 12 lb spring feels really light and the 18lb feels good. I got 24,18, and 12 lb springs just for fun. Maybe not necessary but nothing complex about it. Sort of a soft stopping point for the buffer is all it is. I also like that it short strokes the system with out being an actual hard plastic stop. I also still can lock the bolt back to where with the JP SCS I couldn't do that. So if this allows me to short stroke the Scheel but without doing so using hard plastic bumpers I would call that a benefit. Most have said the short stroke is too violent in this system so maybe this will be a way to achieve that but a bit better. Maybe I just like to screw with crap and dont need to lol. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1443/1561T63

I get the concept of that but doesnt the buffer still bottom out in the tube? If it does then I would like to soften that feel up a bit so I got these springs to play with. The JP SCS is reliable as hell so if this Scheel dont hold up then its back to that. The new one I just got Get 2 looks well made though. Bearings arent so free spinning like I would consider a bearing to be but once installed it seems to roll just fine. I marked it with a sharpie to watch it and see for sure and its fine. In the hand they turn but not like spinning a bike wheel and one feels a bit like another user described which was a radio dial that has felt bumps to tune into a station. All that aside its a damn genius idea and I would honestly rather keep the simplicity of blow back and use this Scheel to roller lock vs a JP5. I watched JP video on the parts in that thing and out the window with simplicity for sure. It has so many parts in there I think long term its not as reliable as the blow back JPs.

Maybe, but the roller lock seems legit and of great use to lock the bolt up initially. If now the issue is the buffer bottoming out in the tube I can fix that with slowing down and adding some cushion to bring the buffer to stop softly and also return it quicker because of the spring. So the nice light blue 5lb spring Corey sent sends the bolt forward softly and the wave spring softly stops the buffer. In my mind this is going to work out great but I have to run it still and see. A wave spring is a 1 inch diameter and 1 inch tall compression spring that a lot of guys used to play with for blow back pcc. I will run it friday and report back here with pics and links if it works out. It looks like a slinky basically but is decompressed like a stretched out slinky. They arrived today so I have them in hand and will see how this goes. Previously I could not attach pics because the file is too large. Any clue how to post pics here?

I dont have the JP5 and havent run the Scheel yet. I have the GMR13 and about 70k rounds in that rifle by now. I will run the Scheel this Friday to function check then again in Saturdays match. I also ordered some wave springs to experiment with. Like the old days where Max and others would drop it in the buffer tube first so the buffer softly bottoms out. If that works out it will give me a soft short stroke with less recoil and likely help return the bolt faster for quicker splits. I will report back here how it goes this weekend.