Masada

Guessing it goes to their "U" die. The Lee version is another option. In my limited experience 9mm isn't as susceptible at .40 to this phenomenon. I load range pick up and had trouble with properly sizing 9mm until I went to a properly adjusted Lee U die and started using one shot. Also making sure the shell plate is properly adjusted (no slop) helps too. After adding these steps I have smooth operation and a low reject rate. Absolutely necessary? No. Worth the extra time money and effort? For me yes. The lee does won't size for bulged brass like the EGW (according to the interwebs). EGW specifically calls out that their dies have a radius that allows the die to size further down the case to eliminate any case bulge. That is specifically why I went with their undersized die, due to issues with my KKM barrel in my M&P. I have thrown out about 200 pcs of 9MM brass that had case bulges due to being shot out of a Glock so I have to disagree with you about the 9mm. At what power factor, and what brass brands? I've got thousands of 9mm run through Glocks then reloaded in Minor PF that would counter your disagreement. The issue w/original Glock .40s is well known, but I think this one's taken on a life of it's own across 'oh, all Glock brass has issues.' ?? R-P brass for the most part, but mixed head stamps such as S&B, PMC and other names. All the brass I picked up was range shoots and there are few people that shoot Major 9 at my range (IDPA) and the ones that do collect their brass or have markings on them so they know.

Guessing it goes to their "U" die. The Lee version is another option. In my limited experience 9mm isn't as susceptible at .40 to this phenomenon. I load range pick up and had trouble with properly sizing 9mm until I went to a properly adjusted Lee U die and started using one shot. Also making sure the shell plate is properly adjusted (no slop) helps too. After adding these steps I have smooth operation and a low reject rate. Absolutely necessary? No. Worth the extra time money and effort? For me yes. The lee does won't size for bulged brass like the EGW (according to the interwebs). EGW specifically calls out that their dies have a radius that allows the die to size further down the case to eliminate any case bulge. That is specifically why I went with their undersized die, due to issues with my KKM barrel in my M&P. I have thrown out about 200 pcs of 9MM brass that had case bulges due to being shot out of a Glock so I have to disagree with you about the 9mm.

Sorry, "these" are the Undersize dies from EGW.

You need these then... https://egwguns.com/wecs.php I just ordered mine on Friday and it shipped today!

Spray some one shot in the sizing die every 50 or so rounds...works for me and keeps it clean. But in reality, these are carbide dies, so you shouldn't need lube on the cases or in the die. I also use the LNL but have it set up as an ammo plant. How is your press mounted? Is it sturdy (read no movement)? That can have some effect as well on the operations, if it's not locked down.

I'm running all ISMI recoil Springs with a carver custom captured guide rod. However, i just bought a non capture guide rod from SSS and will try that out.

Its a deal they have going through March I believe. The card is good until the end of the year.

Thanks for the link. I'll check them out. However, I'm not looking for custom holsters right now. Especially with 50% from holsters.com...I could get probably 3 holsters or at least 2 and some mag pouches by the time I spend money on a custom set up. Anyone else have some recommendations?

yes, I got my IDPA card and the 50% off coupon card...

I just renewed my membership and I was sent one of the safari land 50% off cards. That being said I'm looking suggestions on a good IDPA style holster from safari land. I'm shooting a Full size 1911 and an HK USP .40 S&W. What's been working well for you and what should I stay away from? As a note, I should mention these will only be used in competition. I EDC a Sig 938 in it's own holster.

What you just said is don't sandbag, just make sure you're at the top of a lower division instead of the bottom of a higher division. That is sandbaggin. I know a few guys that switched division after making expert. Some it's to make expert in all divisions. Some, it's to avoid the expert class which is also sandbagging. Personally I'd rather be the bottom master then the top expert. Gives me something to work toward. I think you misunderstood what I was saying. I'm suggesting that people understand what it means to classify into a higher division if they aren't going to be competitive (this is a game after all, I don't know anyone that goes out with the intention of losing). A classifier is a set course that doesn't change, stage matches change all the time. Just because one can shoot a classifier really fast and accurate doesn't mean they will always do the same in a match where the variables change from stage to stage and match to match. Personally, I don't think the classifier is a great baseline to judge a shooter on. My point being, if you find your self scoring at the same rate as an expert in matches, then you should try as hard as you can to get into the expert classification when you shoot the next classifier. However, if you barely scrape into expert and most of your match scores fall in the SS classification, then why would you want to lose all the time in the expert category? That would show that the shooters needs more time to develop the basic skills to make them competitive at the higher tier. Additionally, you're still going to learn from the experts while you shoot the stages. That being said, even though you are competing against people in your classification, the match is scored so that you know your overall rank. So you are still competing (in a sense) against everyone. In the end, the shooter needs to decide and make a game plan. Are you here to learn your weapon and become more proficient or are you here to compete and win with similarly skilled shooters?

Like all things shooting (that are not defense related) it's a game. That being said, I don't know if I've ever tried to score lower in a game on purpose. However, I would hate to have an amazing one day run, get stuck with people that are way better than I am and not even be able to compete (no fun). So do you best, and understand what that means. If you are worried about it, shoot a couple matches first and then decide if by classifying in a higher group will make you less competitive and you won't even enjoy participating then make your decision. I don't think anyone can tell someone you should sand bag, that's just plain dumb. But rather, make them aware of what it means if they just barely break into another classification. Maybe it's time to shoot a different division???

Why not shoot ESP? You could always take them off and shoot SSP if you wanted to.

Do you know how many people I hear say they are getting into loading? They then go out and buy powder, primers and bullets...I ask them what kind of setup are they running and the typical response "Oh I don't have loader yet, I'm just getting suppliers for when I start" and I usually have this look on my face . If you don't reload, then stop buying up supplies the ones who do would really appreciate it (thanks). As for loaded rounds, I can get 9, 40, 45, .223, .308 and .22...how much do you want to pay for it???

I'm running 4.8 gr of W231 with a 115gr plated round and it's not working so well with the comp....

Many thanks for the help. I'll have some 7625 in the next week or so. Is there a starting load I should try with that? Thank-you. Do you have any idea what your velocity is on something like that? I'm thinking to start at 5.5 grains and work up to 6.1 in .2 grain increments. Does that sound like a good start?

I started shooting IPDA at the age of 15 (2000) with a Ruger P94 9MM and I qualified SS at the time. I quickly moved from that to an HK USP in .40 S&W and still have that along with a STI Spartan V 1911 in .45 ACP.

What recoil spring are you running now?

Any help out there?

Silver

Any info you can pass on regarding the fitting of the barrel. Right now it's pretty smooth as I've polished the heck out of it (removed sharp edges and burrs). I measured the stock barrel compared to the KKM barrel and for the most part it all seemed to be close to each other. Most times the KKM was smaller than the stock barrel... Maybe I measured the wrong areas??? Mine was so tight when I got it that it took pressure to get it to into lock up when pushing on it from the bottom side with the slide off. After forcing it in by hand a few times and hand cycling the gun for a bit it would shoot but not reliably. I removed a few thousands from the front of the hood of the barrel. I don't remember how much but it wasn't much. .003-.005 maybe? Ran great and grouped great ever since. As others have said, the striker string could be pulling it out of battery. I have never been able to get mine to work reliably with anything less then a 13 lbs recoil spring. That being said I don't have a comp on mine Ok you and I are on the same page then, I did just what you suggested and I even polished up the slide a bit to make it easier for it to go into battery. Are you running any of your M&P's with a comp on it? I'm in Laveen so PRG is really close for me and I like it there (even if it's not the nicest range to shoot at). If you are near there let me know and we could meet up some time, I'd love to see what you are working with and get some tips and pointers from you.

Hey Neal! It's rocking on like a champ...thinking I need up the load in the .45 acp a little, but other than that it's great. Took 6th overall in an IDPA competition couple months ago with it actually. You coming up here for the single stack competition this week?

Nice work...

I'm on the same page with you...I put my stock spring back in so we will see if that does the trick. I have the 11lb spring and the 13lb spring, I thought factory was 17 lbs but I'm probably mistaken. I had the problem before I put the competition striker spring in. I went so far as to get a new striker assembly from S&W so I have a stock one and a competition assembly. Both have produced the same issue. I'll check the LNL primer ram, but the last batch of 150 rounds I loaded up were all seated correctly. I actually checked each case in the barrel before I put them in the box for my Thursday night steel match and examined the primer specifically too. Please keep the questions and suggestions coming, I'm not trying to be rude and shoot them down, just communicate what I've done already.

Any info you can pass on regarding the fitting of the barrel. Right now it's pretty smooth as I've polished the heck out of it (removed sharp edges and burrs). I measured the stock barrel compared to the KKM barrel and for the most part it all seemed to be close to each other. Most times the KKM was smaller than the stock barrel... Maybe I measured the wrong areas???