ES13Raven
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Posts posted by ES13Raven
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Priming Seating Punch Assembly is measuring 1.222". Manual says it should be between 1.215 and 1.220. I will try lowering it to see if it makes a difference.
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Yeah, changed to the small primers slide and tube. Primers seem to feed fine when the slide goes fully back with a little assistance from me.
I work 8-5 M-F but I will try and call during my lunch hour.
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I just purchased a new RL 550b, and the primer feeding system seems to be having a problem.
The primer slide doesn’t go back all the way, unless I give it a little help. When the slide does not go back all the way, a primer will not feed.
Any ideas?
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Crimp of the case is measuring .379
I adjusted the FDC to "heavy" and the Crimp of the case is measuring .377 now. So there is a difference, I just couldn't see or feel it myself.
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I've always measured the diameter of the unloaded bullet then measured the case wall thickness. Take the case wall thickness x 2 and add the bullet diameter. That number will represent a case that has the "bell" removed.
Bullet is measuring .3545
Case is measuring .020
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Does this look OK?
Rear of the case is measuring .388
Mid of the case is measuring .381
Crimp of the case is measuring .379
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New reloader here. I just got my 550b and I'm using the Lee 4 Die Deluxe Set in 9mm.
I'm setting up my dies for the first time and I think I have everything setup correctly.
I set the Lee Factory Crimp Die per instructions, and I think it is working correctly because some of my test rounds would not fit in my EGW chamber checker after seating the bullet and checking OAL - but they do after I run them through the FCD.
My question is on the crimp. Lee has adjustments for "light crimp" and "heavy crimp". I tried both and couldn't really tell a difference by sight or feel.
I just want a light crimp on my rounds.
How can you tell if the crimp is good enough?
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I think it needs an 11# spring. I have one and will give it a try.
Still getting pretty weak ejection with an 11# ISMI spring on a Jager Gen4 steel guide rod. I will cut off 2 coils and see how that does.
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Has anyone found that the Jager Gen4 Steel Guide Rods compress the spring more than other Guide Rods?
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HUGE fan of 5.11 tactical pants. Perfect front pocket to carry your extra magazine and lots of room to move/flex.
Ditto - 5.11 Taclite Pro pants and shorts. That pocket on the front left thigh is perfect for mags, and the pants are really well made. Great reviews on 5.11, Amazon etc.
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In my case, it wasn't just one spot. The Sandpaper removed material from all 4 sides. It wasn't just one magazine either - all 5 of my mags would not drop free at slide-lock even if I shook the gun.
I started out with 220 grit wet/dry on just one side of the mag. Once that was loose enough (about 50 times) I was able to put sandpaper on the opposite side.
I would say it took at least 100 times before a regular mag would drop free on its own. This is with the slide, mag catch and all trigger components off. Then I used 400 grit and 600 grit to finish.
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I've read a few other threads where people are using double-sided tape and sandpaper on a magazine to loosen up the inside of the magwell.
This is what I ended up doing, and it worked pretty well. There was quite a bit of plastic to shave off, but now all my mags drop free.
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I've read a few other threads where people are using double-sided tape and sandpaper on a magazine to loosen up the inside of the magwell.
Since all (5) of my G35 mags are not dropping free, is that a better idea than sanding all the mags?
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Are there certain areas of the mag that need sanding more than others?
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I have a Gen4 G35 that I have about 300 rounds through. The 3 magazines that came with it (10-round, CA) do not drop freely - especially at slide lock. This really slows me down in IDPA. I can't even shake them out.
My Gen4 G17 and G34 do not have this issue.
When I put my G34 mags in my G35, they drop free - even at slide lock.
I'm using Dawson EZ-off baseplates on the G35 and G34 if that matters.
What is the best way to get these G35 mags to drop free?
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I found mine are too small. I ordered a 10, but these fit more like a 9. Anyone want them? PM me.
I guess I can't edit my post, but these are sold.
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Now that I think about it, I think it needs an 11# spring. I have one and will give it a try.It seems counter-intuitive to try a STRONGER recoil spring in a gun that is having ejection issues.
This is on a brand new Gen4 35 so I don't think it's a dirty channel etc.
Wolff has this on their website:
As a rule of thumb, if your spent casings are first hitting the ground in the 3 to 6 foot range, then the recoil spring is approximately correct. If you are ejecting beyond the 6-8 foot range, then a heavier recoil spring is generally required. If your casings are ejecting less than 3 feet, a lighter recoil spring may be needed to assure reliable functioning.
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If the average Power Factor for a certain load is 130 out of a Glock 17 (4.5") what would the average Power Factor be for that same load out of a Glock 34 (5.3")?
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It wasn't a new 13# ISMI spring - about 2000 rounds on it. Maybe it's down to an 11# spring strength now. I will try a new 13# spring.
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The lighter spring should help ejection, sounds more like an ammunition issue.
Shooting AAA .40 minor
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My G35 shoots fine with major loads and the stock spring, but when I switch to minor loads and a 13# ISMI spring - the brass ejection is very weak. Do I need a 15# spring?
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So ISMI 13# spring is good for .40 minor?
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I bought the Harbor Freight workbench below. It gets over 100* here many days of the summer, so I'm going to reload indoors in the A/C.
The workbench is in my office, which has medium height carpet. The carpet doesn't help to keep it stable.
I am renting this house, so I'm not sure if I want to drill into the wall to secure the bench.
Anyone have suggestions on how to make the bench sturdy as possible, without a bracket to the wall?
Primer Feeding Issue
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I think I found the problem:
My Operating Rod Bracket was set high from the factory:
I did some searching and it is supposed to be very close to the tool-head - only enough room to slide a piece of paper between. As soon as I made that adjustment, the Operating Rod was able to push the Primer Slide all the way to the rear.
I can't get the Priming Seating Punch Assembly to go lower than 1.222" but it seems to be working.