Quag

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike. Thanks I'll look into it AA&A is a quality ammo manufacture that is geared for competition and my assumption is (not positive) they are using Federal Primers. The Glockworx and Jäger Ext tip strikers are worth their weight for any reloader for GLOCK and even for SS shooters getting one as well.My triggers set off Tula, Win, and CCI no issues at all. I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike. Thanks I'll look into it AA&A is a quality ammo manufacture that is geared for competition and my assumption is (not positive) they are using Federal Primers. The Glockworx and Jäger Ext tip strikers are worth their weight for any reloader for GLOCK and even for SS shooters getting one as well.My triggers set off Tula, Win, and CCI no issues at all. Any advice on the type of extended striker Jager or Zev? I noticed some negative comments on the Jagers. I think that will solve my LS issue. With the AA&A remanufactured ammo I don't think I have had a light strike in over a 3000 rds. My reloads not so much. The primers on AA&A are bronze color like Win and Federal. I bet they are federal.

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike. Thanks I'll look into it

I know this has been gone over before. I reload 9mm low PF. Due to the previous shortages I have a variety of primers (I bought what I could get). I am now reloading with Win SP mag primers. Using 231 powder. I recently put in a drop in trigger group from Glocktriggers.com I am using the 4 lb striker spring which should give a 2lb trigger pull. I really like the feel and the crisp brake. At practice today I had a lot of light strikes. I figured out I was not letting the trigger reset fully and was able to eliminate most of the light strikes by letting the trigger fully reset but I still had a few. I then switched to some Atlanta Arms remanufactured ammo (low PF ammo) and had no light strikes at all over about 20 rounds. I use the Atlanta arms ammo for matches. Alos I would get no light strikes using my reloads when firing slowly. I had no light strikes in over 30 rds doing an accuracy drill. I seem to get them only when I am speeding up doing speed drills. What I don't like is modifying my trigger pull for one ammo vs another. My gut tells me this is a bad practice. Any ideas I have heard Federal Match Primers is the way to go, I don't think it is the springs or I would get LS with all of the ammo. Thoughts?

To have fun in idpa i shoot my bug/carry gun in a regular match, wear sports coat for cover, smoke ceegars, and shot that bug gun as fast as can. Boy do ihad some bad scores but that bill drill, that was something. Iwas dirty harry for a moment!

I mainly shoot IDPA and am relatively new so my best times are not great. I actually like a lot of IDPA restrictions you do not have in USPSA. I can understand how you hate drawing from concealment. I took some bad online advice and was dry fire training without concealment (told it makes little difference when you go to a match). BTW I really do not like dry fire. After reading Seeklander and B. Enos I decided to train with and without concealment and to embrace what I hate (turn it into a positive). When I started I was drawing with an IDPA rig without concealment (classifier in IDPA is without concealment). I then added concealment (standard IDPA vest) and my times jumped 30 to 50%. I was all upset until I dry fired some more and the times dropped about 15%. I also gave my self an attitude adjustment, yes it is harder with concealment what else is old! BTW my best level in a IDPA holster so far without concealment is 2 sec. I have been told for IDPA to get under 2 is good. So I then tried practicing dry fire with my typical carry concealment, IWB holester under a sweat shirt. Yes I was terrible at first but with some more practice my times dropped again. It was a very useful drill. Its all good. I think its about awareness and good pistol handling. For fun I think I'm going to do a local IDPA match with my 3.5 inch barrel carry gun, IWB holester, with street clothes and a sweatshirt for concealment. Maybe I'll add a bow tie to fool the bad guys.

saibot I've got to say I admire your diligence and persistence in both your training program and your postings here. I'm starting my own structured program after my first year of competitions in IDPA and USPSA. I did train before but it was pretty haphazard. I do not think I can do it at the frequency that you do given my schedule. Its clear however that I really need to develop a good dry fire program and do it at least 3x per week. After just 3 days of basic dry fire drills (abt am 1 hr each) I have been able to reduce my par times for draw and fire and draw fire and reload (static) by 20%.

I have a dog, the dog and I share the couch a lot. The dog likes football and hockey. BTW the dog does not mind pistol fire, but does not like those big .223 rounds or whatever they use on the rifle range which is right behind our pistol action pits.

Dude as attractive as that sounds (and boy does it sound good), I have a job but more frightening than my work boss, is my real boss the wifie, who is in her post-Thanksgiving/pre-Xmass frenetic frenzy. I'm going to have enough trouble getting away to a local IDPA match next Saturday. I already screwed up the turkey trying to cook it on my grill, I'm in the dog house as usual.

After messing around with all the different homebrew trigger jobs, I went with the Glocktriggers.com drop in Edge trigger and absolutely love it. It dropped in and worked from the first trigger pull. I can't imagine their Vogel version being any different. I think you will be happy. Thanks I think you helped me make my decision. I also had a conversation with the owner of Glocktiggers.com. I have to research the difference between the Edge and the Vogel. But you hit the nail on the head I just want to get the group and drop it in. I have had enough of tinkering my Dillion reloader had two issues today which I fixed but that took 3 hours out of my reloading time.

I'm the OP, thanks for the info. Its clear to me there are two ways to go 1) al a carte- i.e. replace part by part do you own polishing and filing and jury rig parts; costs probably less than $50 and you better know what you are doing, 2) Buy a trigger "group", more expensive i.e. $130 to $200 but easier to install, drop the group in yourself or have an armorer do it. I see plus and minus of both approaches. I do like tinkering and I can break down my guns to a certain extent but I draw the line at some point. I have gotten messed up using internet advice. I have never taken a armorer course. But I will. I have been shooting 1 year and I think for this step I'm going to take option 2. I can drop the group in but I'm very hesitant to mess around with option 1 based on my skills and my tools. I may be wrong but I figure with option 2 most of these vendors know a lot more than I do and they have researched and tried a variety of combinations before they came up with their product. I also need to make sure what ever I get is acceptable for IDPA SSP and USPSA Production. Thx

I have really enjoyed reading this thread. I have been a member of the Enos forum mostly for reloading advice and I missed this thread until I googled Seeklander Dry Fire Training. I have been shooting IDPA for about a year and I just joined USPSA. I shoot SSP in IDPA and Production in USPSA. I enjoy both sports and do not join in the bashing that goes on by some members i.e. IDPA vs USPSA. Shooting is shooting. Its all good. I am getting Mike's book and going to try to attend a class in 2014. I am at the point where I am going to get serious. A couple of questions to the guys on this thread 1) camera use-I notice that a number of folks in this thread are using videos to review their technique. How useful is that? I for one do not like the idea of anything extra on my head when competing. What do you guys think? Are there any hat cameras that you like? I have seen some guys at matches wearing them but not in my squads. 2) dry fire-I did not see much discussion of dry fire in this thread. What are the fire drills you guys are using are any better than others. thanks PS I shoot a Glock 17 and a Walther P99QA in minor power factor in 9mm I reload all my practice ammo 9mm 147 gr. I believe in practicing with what you compete with. I would not practice with a 22 since ai reload cost of ammo is really not an issue.

I live in the wonderful Peoples Republic of Mass. We cannot buy Glocks from a FFL manufactured after 1998. So we have to be innovative with our Glocks. I have a G17 gen2 that's in good shape and I use it for IDPA and USPSA (SSP or production divisions). I do not use it for carry. There was some damage to the polymer grip near the mag well and I sent it Glock for refurbishing and they put a new Gen 3 receiver on the bottom with new factory parts. (Oh happy day) I love the grip much more than the Gen 2 which I had problems with and its become my first choice for my matches. The problem is they replaced it with factory parts and upgraded the weight on the trigger to 5.5 plus and I do not like the feel and pull of the trigger for competition. I am considering an aftermarket drop in trigger group and I am looking at Glocktriggers.com (vogel trigger). I talked to the owner and I like what I hear. I know there are others out there. Any of you guys have any experience with this aftermarket product or others. Thanks PS and one day I'm going to move to a free state so I can buy a G34 Gen 4 or a CZ or whatever. But for now I've got what I got and I kind of like tinkering with my Gen2/Gen3 and making the best of it.

I shoot a Walther P99QA in IDPA and USPSA. I live in Mass so I cannot get a PPQ. However I am very interested in the PPQ 5 inch when it comes out. I have ordered an after market barrel for the walther. I like the trigger on the walther better than the glock but thats only comparing production to production. I also shoot a G17 Gen 3 with an after market barrel (Storm Lake) the glock seems to be more accurate at long range e.g. 40 to 60 feet. The G17 was terrible with the production barrel was very sloppy. I have also had some trigger work done on the glock. If I can figure out a way to buy a PPQ M2 5 inch barrel I'd be very interested but I'd like to talk to someone who has shot it first.

I'm the OP and here's an update. I have learned a lot from the more experienced reloaders and their posts. Thank you. I have shot between 1000 to 1200 rds of 9mm 124 gr or 147 in a variety of practrice sessions and club IDPA and USPSA matches with no squibs. I found no signficant problems with my press, my components or reloading forumlas after checking and rechecking everything. I went over my log books to see if I could spot any mistakes in past reloading, nothing popped up. So what did I change? Me! I did what any manufacturing process would do and that is slow down my production and redouble my QC checks. check the powder dispenser drop every 100 rds, use 2 lights instead of 1, force my self to look at that powder level in every cartridge and reject any that looked light (I've emptied out a lot of good rds but I caught a few). Make sure on every round to fully depress the handle so the powder bar travels its full length. Check OAL and crimp size on 5 bullets every 50 rds. Double check the primer seating after putting the bullets in the loading case. Reject any cartridge if there is any problem. my production rate is slower but no squibs. I just hit abt 5000 rds total now and I've got my confidence back. again thanks for a lot of good advice.

I'm the OP Henny you nailed it I had the rod in backwards. I do not think that was causing the squibs but the travel on the stroke is lot smoother now. A picture is worth a thousand words! Thanks Quag

I'll look again when I get home, but right now I have been using 231 for my 147 gr. And the rounds just roll out of the barrel and this 3.6 chrono's at about 950 to 990 fps, low recoil. This is above the PF of 125, I was thinking of going down to less than 3.6 with 231 maybe 3.4. I do not only use Hodgdon I use Lyman and other reloading guides.

One of the things I did to increase my QC is to reject any case where the primer did not seat properly on the first try (550B), I have had the light on my primers for awhile now and I have been checking each one. I'm failry sure my squib was not a light load. I know what a squib sounds like and the SO and I did not hear one.

For minor 231, HUC, Tite Group

Sure got the right powder? I know at least 4 reloaders that use Hodgdon U. Abt 3.5 to 3.6 fr 147 plated or not. Its not Tite or Clays. Actually Im using Winc 231 ran out HUC I chrono my loads and just make PF with 231

OP update after redoubling my QC efforts and slowing down reloading I shot a USPSA match and a IDPA for a total of abt 350 rds with no problems real testcomes this weekend at a USPSA match. Still going to get an experienced reloader to come over.

Thanks rtp. I was interested in what the OP was indicating because of the gun his gun is walther PPQ M2, mine is the P99QA which is the father of the PPQ. I never had the problems he is having.

I'm guessing those aren't MG JHPs you're loading? Different projectile profiles can require different max OALs. 1.10" on FMJs is (likely, is in mine, and haven't seen reports of factory ammo nod feeding properly) fine, may even be fine for some HPs, or borderline but still chambers. Have you done the 'drop test' to check your gun's max OAL? I have used Berry's 147 grn round tip and 124 grn MG round tip. The MG are FMJ and the Berrys is CMJ. I do not use HP. I checked a number of reloading manuals, checked the OAL on Atlanta Arms 147 grn factory ammo and some other 124 grn factory ammo before I settled on 1.10 for a target OAL. I set the OAL using a 124 grn bullet. I check each round with a case gage and use the drop test on that. The drop test also works on the barrel for both bullets. The diffence in the OAL between the 147 and 124 is very small. I just used the caliper test last night on 15 rounds of 124 gr and it was almost dead on for 1.10. I will check the OAL on the 147 I expect its very close. They both meet the limit on the case guage. If I get some time tonight I'll find out the OAL on the 147s. I have it in my log book but I don't remember it right now.

BTW with respect to my above post I reload 124 and 147 gr 9mm in for my Walther P99QA. My reload target for the OAL is 1.10 and I have never had a problem of the type the OP is discribing.

I'm the OP. Just to let everyone know I do not listen to the radio, I turn off the TV, no kids anymore (thank God) and I visually check every load with the light setup. I am very aware of the concentration/focus issue. I should have mentioned last week when I had the undetected squib in a practice I mixed some 124 gr old rds that I reloaded last Feb when I did not have as good QC as I have now. I suspect the squib was from that batch. This weekend I used my reloaded 147 gr ammo in a USPCA match and shot abt 200 rds and no misfires or squibs. I was pleased with the lack of recoil. Now that I think about it, its about 1 squib every 700-800 rds but even that's not acceptable. I think I really need to get an experienced reloader over to the house. I am located in Central Mass, outside Worcester. BTW this advice resonated with me "The powder drop set up does not sound right. You seem to have binding that causes the white thingy to pop off occasionally. There should not be anywhere near that much binding EVER. Loosen the powder hopper so it swivels freely then run the handle several times until it looks like the hopper finds the sweet spot. Make sure you ALWAYS push the handle back as if priming even if there is not a primer being seated. This is what allows the powder drop to be at it's fullest." By trial and error I think I came to the same solution a couple of weeks ago. Its not binding up now, but I'm still not happy with the stroke. I destroyed one white "thingy".Also I know I have not pushed the handle forward in the case a primer was not being seated. However, I do not like the accuracy on the powder drop. If I set it for 3.6 grs and I try it later later it could be 3.6, 3.7 or 3.5. It seems there is a 0.1 to 0.2 gr error. I do not know if that normal. Also if a primer does not seat on the first try no more for that cartridge, to the trash.

I recently told a eastern European Jewish shooting friend I was going to home and "have a come to Jesus moment on a reloading forum", after a incident with a squib that was identified after the fact that scared the hell out of me. He wondered what the WTF I was talking about until I told him my story and he said you may not get Jesus to help you with that but you should get to the bottom of it before you hurt yourself. So here it goes. Incident I was shooting my G17 with my 147 gr reloads with a Storm Lake after market barrel doing some IDPA drills. During a bill drill the slide jammed half way back and it was stuck on the barrel with no squib. It could not be dislodged on the scene and I took it to an armorer. He dislodged it and he looked at the barrel and he said send it back to SL, the tolerances on the barrel block are too tight for the slide. So I sent it to SL and after talking with the nice fellow in SL tech support. SL indicated that tolerances between the machining in Glock slides and SL barrels sometimes do not match up (very rare) and he offered to machine down the barrel block to my G17 gen 2 slide. I sent both to SL and they found to my surprise (what I and the armorer did not notice) that the SL barrel had a bulge in it about half way down and would not easily fit through the barrel hole in slide muzzle, SL indicated this is what caused the barrel to jamb on the slide. He asked if I had a squib during the drill and I indicated I had not and I had shot with the SL barrel before (not a lot) and had no problems. Upon closer examination he found what appeared to be a copper ring fragment at the bulge and was able to knock it out. It was his opinion (he is a pro shooter) that I had a squib and I did not notice it and shot a second bullet into the squib that dislodged both. He indicated I was very lucky and advised me to carefully review how I was reloading. Reloading from the basement cave I am a relatively new reloader I only reload 9mm. There are not a lot of reloaders in the area so a lot of advice has been from forums and parenthetical advice at matches. I have been doing it since Jan 2013 and I have logged about 3900 rounds. When I first started I had the typical beginners problems had squibs and I number of measures to rectify the problems and the worked. But I still have an occasional squib or light load. Here's how I reload now Reloader: Dillon 550B Loads: 147 and 124 gr, minor power factor Powders: various due supply I typically use Hodgden U, Win 231; I typically load abt 3.6 for the 147 gr, and 4 gr for the 124 . I chrono my loads and I am happy with the results and repeatability. Bullets: Berry and MG cartridges: various from the range, weed out military and steel target OAL: 1.10 crimp: .378 to .377 Before reloading I calibrate the scale and run about 5 to 10 test drops until I am happy with the target powder drop. I have mounted a flash light so I can see the powder in the cartridge. after running about 10 rounds I check with a caliper to make sure things are set, they always are. I only had to tighten up the seating station once to make sure I was getting the right OAL. I do not like wasting rounds or primers so if a primer does not feed right away I will sometimes give it a second attempt to seat it after that I throw it away. I have had some problems with variable powder feeds. I have had to adjust the powder drop to just the right angle and tighten up on the screw at the end of the riser bar (what I call it). It seems to be running smoother now. But I still get some jamming of powder dispenser and that little white plastic nut that runs against the powder slide jumps off. I check every round with case gauge. It has been suggested that my crimp is too tight. Do any of you have suggestions as to how I can weed out this squib problem. I would estimate I get one every 200 to 300 rounds. I do not know what the problem is but I'm losing confidence. One thought is to get and get an experienced reloader to observe my reloading first hand, only so much I can get from forums. thanks