Just4FunLP

I like my cheap plastic CZ factory grips with Talon grip tape. I don't care about looks. I did have a little problem with my weak hand mashing up against the the high spot at the top of the grip, so I just took a file to it and polished it up with some fine sand paper. Looks like it was made like that. There's nothing illegal about this is there? Seems like if any company in the world can make them any way they want, I should be able to do the same thing in my garage. It's the American way...

Never had the opportunity to buy the more popular powders. Also buying online forces me to get larger quantities making it a little more difficult to try different stuff. I started using 4.5gr of WSF with 124gr RN Bayou Bullets to make minor with a CZ. I think it seems to measure a little better than Accurate No5 and also doesn't seem to fly out of the case as much when I'm running fast on my xl650. Seems to shoot well, and most important, I've always been able to find it without a lot of difficulty. I hate to change. I would like to experience a cleaner powder. So far I've used PB, Accurate No 5, 7625, and now WSF. WSF may be a little cleaner, but it's hard to tell. I'm seeing Clays online from time to time, so I want to try to get my hands on a little to give it a try. I expect to hear Ode To Joy when I take off the lid.

Yea. It's a little wobbly.

I noticed my front sight is loose and comes out when I unscrew the bushing. Guess there's no pin due to the bushing. How is it held in place?

I got the alignment tool and it appears I needed to rotate the assembly clockwise. I moved it as far as it would go, but it was still dragging a little. I guess I could disassemble everything again and try to open up the bolt holes a bit, or I could try buying a new tool head, or perhaps send it back to Dillon. On the other hand, I've now run thousands and thousands of rounds through it (all 9mm) without the pins, and everything has run perfect. I'm thinking I should stop wasting time and just run it. Think it's worth the effort? If so why? Thanks

I have an old CED 7000 shot timer that needs some new switches. There are several on the front of the circuit board, and two on the back oriented at 90 degrees. Does anyone have a vendor and part number for these switches? Just thought I'd ask before scouring the electronic catalogs. Thanks

Yea I know... I guess it is what it is. It did help me understand the process.

Wow, this is a great thread! I'm still running my 9mm with the pins out and it runs flawlessly. Can't believe I put up with the constant jams for two years. I read about the aligning tool, but I couldn't figure out what could be moved to make the adjustment. I stumbled apon a YouTube video that shows the process. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rxe8xt_u1NI It appears there's a couple of bolts under the shell plate that has enough play to allow the assembly to move around. I just sent an email to Dillon asking them to send me the tool. I also like the lubrication video listed above. That's a great help. Thanks!!!!

Only had my gun a couple of months and already broke the trigger return spring. Not impressed.

Good point about the backup.

OK. I really appreciate all the feedback. I finally had some time to work on this today, and after reviewing your responses I came up with the following list. I changed some of the intervals to make it fit a quarterly, semiannual, and annual PM schedule. Like rowdyb I'm not going to count rounds, so this is based on 25 - 30 thousand rounds a year... I don't know exactly which springs came with my gun (CZ 75 SP01 ACCU Shadow). I guess I can contact CZ Custom of CGW to find out. I also looked on CGW and CZ Custom for a firing pin, and it appears the only one available for the non firing pin block guns is the extended Firing Pin 10229 from CZ custom. I'm a little confused about this. Please suggest any changes or corrections. I really don't have any preferences on vendors. Just to be on the safe side I want to buy a set of springs that match what's in the gun now, but I wouldn't mind experimenting if it will be an improvement. I just don't want to adversely affect reliability. This is going to cost a little more than I expected, so let me know if there's anything that's total overkill. My goal is to eliminate failures and maintain consistency, but I'm not exactly going for a world championship either. Even so, it still sucks when your gun craps out during a match. Thanks

My powder measure went wacky on me once and it was the fact that the spring in the bottom of the fail safe rod (I think that's what it's called) was not being compressed. I turned the plastic wing nut a couple of turns and the problem was gone. I've also noticed that the charge weight seemed to drift up as I go through the reload session. I think this was due to st he powder settling. I found that tapping the hopper after romping in the powder makes it run consistently from beginning to end.

Welcome. I shoot at Talon Range near Tallahassee.

Just figured out the elevation screw is backing out about a 1/4 turn every 100 shots. Any suggestions?

I've been shooting USPSA production for a while now, and I'm going to shoot a steel challenge match in the morning. I have a new CZ with DA/SA and a manual safety. What is my starting condition? I'm hoping cocked and locked. In USPSA it's hammer down. I know I could probably find the answers in here somewhere, but I need to get some sleep. I hope I find some good news in the morning. Sorry for posting such a lame question. Thanks

I've been using Bayou 124 RNs coated bullets for a while now. They're cost effective and seem to be plenty accurate for me. Ive also been using WSF powder. In fact I just bought another 8lb jug from Powder Valley this morning. I hate having to worry about what powder I'm going to next, and would rather simply stick with something that works and has decent availability. I just worked up a load for my new gun so I can't remember exactly what it is off the top of my head... I think it's around 4.5gr. I can find out if your interested.

Tom S. Thanks for posting this. I've had this problem for years, and tried everything. I pulled out my pins and found that the tool head could go in just a little farther. I ran it without pins and it seemed to work much better. Just to make sure I put the pins back in and the problem returned immediately. I ended up running 500 rounds, and it ran smoother than it ever has. I was slamming the handle down as fast as I could with no problems. The pins are now in my spare parts box. It's like finding out you've been driving your car around in third gear. Thanks, thanks, thanks....

Ok. I'm pissed. I've got the same issue. I've loosened everything up, filed off the little bump, and did a ton of hair drier mods. It seems to have helped some, but I still occasionally get it hung up. This is really unacceptable. I think it's the way the bevel around the trigger guard transitions down to the square part. It seems like this is what's getting hung up. There's a pin that comes in the international holster that had to be removed for my CZ 75 SP01 Shadow, and after you remove the pin there's still a indentation left behind that catches the bevel on the CZ. I've thought about trying to grind some of this material away, but have other priorities right now. Sucks for a $75.00 piece of plastic.

No doubt, I need instruction. Was planning to take a class in Frostproof about now, but I think it was important for me to replace my gun. It's put a hurtin on my budget though. I'm still getting familiar with the new gun, but it's getting better every time I pick it up. It is very different than my XDM. I finally got my grips worked out and it's a huge improvement. Just need to keep focusing in the DA thing, and gently placing my finger on the trigger as I'm coming around for those SA shots. It's a lot of fun. The gun and ammo ran pretty rough the first 500 - 1000 rounds, but seems to be getting better now. Unfortunately I damaged the safety mechanism and it's on it's way back for repair now. Hope they get it back to me before the holidays. I plan to do a lot of shooting. I'm very anctious to have someone get me pointed in a clear direction on all the various techniques. I'm still a little confused over some things, and I look forward to learning which direction to go, and focusing doing it right every time. It's quite a journey, and I love every shot, good or bad.

I really know nothing about tactical stuff, but from talking to those guys and watching them in matches, it appears that they come at it from a different angle. I consider what I do for practicing for USPSA to be for sport. It may be counterproductive for law enforcement guys. I will say that the two best USPSA competitors in my town are law enforcement officers that have trained heavily for competitive shooting.

I put an old towel on top of the chest freezer in my garage and put in about 100 at a time and just give them a good rub. This is fast seems to work well for me. I clean all my match ammo one at a time while giving it a good visual inspection and plunk test.

Howdy from Florida. Come on down, it's not so hot now.

I ended up using the calculation ((error" x sight radius")/distance to target") and moved the sights accordingly using surface plate and height gauge at work. You guys were right. I whacked it over and over and finally had to go to a "Bigger Hammer". I finally hit it so hard I saw it move. Two more adjustments got it exactly where I wanted it and when I got it to the range the rounds were hitting dead center. Math works. Thanks for the input. I never would have hit it that hard without asking first.

I like it. I started the thread so I thought I should give an update... I liked JGus' advice and ordered $20.00 plastic grips and Talon laser cut grip tape for my new Accu Shadow. I know some people may consider this to be a little barbaric to do to such an expensive gun. The thin aluminum grips that came on the gun looked nice, but there was almost no contact with my weak hand. Now it feels like the gun is firmly attached to my hands. I'm much happier. Just like on my XDM grip tape tends to slide a little on the side, so I'll add a small amount of JB Weld between the tape and the plastic grips. Again, I know it sounds crazy, but it's worked well in the past.

BeerBaron As I mentioned earlier I've had the same issue. Keeping the grooves in my shell plate clean seems to help, but even when everything is perfect the cases tend to lean outward just a little. You mentioned grease under the station 1 locator. I didn't know there was any grease under this. Does this lift it up a bit?