Just4FunLP

Interesting conversation. I’m about to start reloading massive quantities of 223 for low accuracy shooting. I really don’t care about how it looks. I bought he RT-1500 case trimmer for my XL-600 (I’m still waiting for the die i rides on). The idea was to use the steel pins between the first and second trips through the 650 to help remove the burrs on the mouth of the case as well as help clean the primer pocket. It was recommended by people who reload rifle. Hope I haven’t made a mistake… I’ve reloaded over probably close to 200,000 rounds of 9MM over the years, and am totally happy with the results of corncob media.

Like this one from Ben Stoeger’s Pro Shop? https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-shadow-2-rami-flat-low-profile-slide-stop/ Thanks

Thanks usmc1977.

I’ve got an Accu Shadow 2. I’ve been shooting for about 8 years and I’ve been running these CZs for about 5 or 6 of those years. I’ve always had the occasional problem where my weak hand contacts the slide release lever and accidentally locks the slide back, but danged if I didn’t do it on 3 of the 6 stages of our local match today. Of course I know I should avoid hitting the lever, but it’s really more of an adrenaline thing and only happens when I’m in the heat of a major hose-fest. Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe a heavier spring? Perhaps a mod to the slide release. I assume I can get away with external mods in Production now days... I like my CZs, and I really don’t want to lower my grip, but something’s got to change. As always, thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, I bit the bullet (no pun intended) and purchased a thousand 223 remans from Freedom Munitions at 0.75/rnd. This caused Remington to become available at Midsouth for 0.65/rnd. Thank me.... a friend just sold me 1000 small rifle primers today for a mere $100, and he was doing me a favor... seriously. And on top of all this, I ordered all the very best equipment to add 223/5.56 capabilities to my 650. Since I have everything ready to go I decided check on my back ordered dies. That’s all I need. As I’m going through various screens on their customer service website it directed me to a page that says dies have a lead time of 48 freakin weeks. 48 WEEKS!!! Granted, they do have a notice where you order the dies saying they’re “heavily back ordered”, but what isn’t back ordered these days, right? They need to have a big giant flashing red stop sign saying “If you order this equipment, your investment is going to collect dust for almost a year before you can use it”. Ug!! What a fiasco. Lol.

You’re right. I’m 58 years old, and I have to honestly say that primers have been the hardest thing to buy in my entire life. Praise God for that! But it’s true. Just seems like they’d be interested in doing something about it.

I just contacted my Area Director and the NRA with the following message. If we all did the same it would probably make a difference. “In collaboration with the various shooting sports organizations, draft a letter to the various primer and powder manufacturers asking them if they want to be the one company that is determined to reliably support reloaders. Then ask them to state exactly what they will do differently in the future to make that happen. I believe most competitive shooters and hobbyists would be willing to pay a little more to be loyal to a supplier who is loyal to them. We pay you to represent us. Please make it happen, and then publish the results. Thanks”

Yea. I was just reading the Dillon die manual and it they explained the procedure for removing a stuck case from the sizing die. It’s sounds like something I want to avoid, but with that particular die it’s not too difficult to get the case out. The problem is that I’ll be resizing with the die the trimmer mounts to, so I assume a stuck case in that die would be a real pain to get out. The brass is in the walnut media now... lol

Ive been loading 9MM on my 650 for years and I’ve only got a few more items to arrive from Dillon and I’ll be ready to reload 223/5.56. My goal is to load lots of inexpensive ammo as quickly as possible for use on relatively close targets. The brass I pick up tends to be really dirty, and I’ve always started the cleaning process by simply running it through my large case/media separator before I put it into my vibratory case cleaner. When I started to do this with my first batch of rifle brass I decided to run the water hose in the plastic bin while I cranked the basket. From what I can see, the brass looks remarkably clean. Do you think I can simply lube it and run it through the case prep sequence? I plan to use the universal recapping die in station one and the RT-1500 trimmer and sizing die in station four. After this I’ll run them through Super Swage and then a final bath in the rotary tumbler. Thanks for your response...

Ive been loading 9MM on my 650 for years and I’ve only got a few more items to arrive from Dillon and I’ll be ready to reload 223/5.56. My goal is to load lots of inexpensive ammo as quickly as possible for use on relatively close targets. The brass I pick up tends to be really dirty, and I’ve always started the cleaning process by simply running it through my large case/media separator before I put it into my vibratory case cleaner. When I started to do this with my first batch of rifle brass I decided to run the water hose in the plastic bin while I cranked the basket. From what I can see, the brass looks remarkably clean. Do you think I can simply lube it and run it through the case prep sequence? I plan to use the universal recapping die in station one and the RT-1500 trimmer and sizing die in station four. After this I’ll run them through Super Swage and then a final bath in the rotary tumbler. Thanks for your response...

Definitely will do a lot of movement. For me, it’s the most important reason to dryfire. I can burn 600 to 800 calories in one long session. And if you have a challenging set of timed drills it’s a lot of fun. Why spend all your time in a gym when you can be doing something you love. I’ve slacked off for the last year or two due to a new job, but before that I was in the best shape of my life. To those out there that could use a little more exercise... Take some of that money you’re not spending on ammo and buy a Polar H10 heart rate monitor and practice some dryfire with movement. I do it in a two car garage.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I have my first 2/3 gun match coming up in about 3 weeks. I'm looking for a holster for a Shadow 2, but it doesn't appear that the Safariland GLS will fit my pistol. Am I missing something? Thanks

OK. Thanks for the tip on the holster. I searched for an hour last night and didn't find squat...

Ok. That settles it. I’ll just practice dumping my mag and racking the slide on my last shot. I can do that fast enough. Now, off to find a retention holster. And regarding the mag pouch setup, it took me a couple of tries to picture it, you have a fairly straight forward setup similar to USPSA, with only 3 pistol pouches and one rifle. And the rifle is in the middle of your back with the bullets pointing towards your left rear pocket... sort of... And yes, I shoot production.

Been shooting USPSA for about 8 years and want to get into 2/3 Gun. I want to work on shotgun, but from what I've read it sounds like I should hold off on that for a while. I don't currently have a suitable shotgun anyway... I've got a million questions, but what I want to know is what pistol I should focus on. I've got an XDm that's got 70,000 rounds on it and will need an overhaul. I've got a SP01 Accu-Shadow that's got quite a few miles on it but is still in pretty good shape. And I've got an Accu-Shadow 2 that's pretty fresh. My SP01 has the larger thumb safety while the Shadow 2 has the low profile safety. I heard that I may run into trouble safely dumping my Shadows. Of coarse I'd like to be able to shoot my Shadow 2 if possible. Please give me your opinion. Also, I know everyone says to wait before buying equipment, but I'd like to get an idea of what my ammo carriers might look like. I've got two standard Velcro belts. One for USPSA and one for Multigun. I've got one rifle pouch and lots of Pmags and pistol mags. I assume a normal USPSA style pistol holster will not meet the requirements due to the lack of retention...??? Lastly, should I carry my rifle mags bullets forward or backward. I've done so much practice reloading in USPSA production that I don't think I'll ever be able to retrain myself to reach around and grab the back of the rifle mag. Bullets forward feels more natural, but I end up pushing the mag in from the bottom and it gets a bit sloppy. Should I dedicate myself to make the change to bullets facing to the rear? You guys have already answered many questions for me. Thanks for the help..

This really helps. I’ve got a few questions about gear, but I think I’ll start another post. I’m about to get my reloader setup to handle 223, but now we’re in another ammo apocalypse... perfect timing. .... Thanks again.

Wow. Tons of great information... Don't know if you wrote all this today or maybe copied it from another post. Either way I really appreciate it. I have seen the video on approach shooting and want to give it a try in live fire. You may laugh, but part of the reason I'm getting into rifle is because a few years ago I won a Red Rider BB gun in a white elephant gift exchange. I set up a couple of pie tins at 25yds and attached a custom cardboard rear sight and I shoot that thing two or three times a day. lol. I just watched that video again and realized I've been using the approach technique without knowing it was a technique... I guess with enough inexpensive ammo your brain will eventually figure out what to do. We have a great creator. Thanks God!!! In your paragraph on pistol you mentioned steel targets "C zone" at 100yds. Are you saying they have you shoot pistol at 100yds? Also, what size and shape targets do they have, and at what distances? I can figure out the scaling. Sorry for all the questions, but I really enjoy dryfire and want to do it right from the start. You should write a book...

Been shooting USPSA for 8 years and I'm starting to dabble in Multigun. I've always enjoyed my pistol dryfire and would like to incorporate my rifle. Are there any books or videos dedicated to this? I've always used Ben Stoeger's books for pistol... I've also got Jerry Miculek's DVD, which is very good, but I'm looking for something with more information on dryfire. Thanks

I totally missed the “should not must” comment. That clears up the issue for me. Thanks for your patience.

Thanks for all the info. The rule I quoted about “ready condition with the safety on” in my original post was from the 3 Gun Nation Multi-Gun rule book. DirkD’s quote is from the USPSA Rifle, Shotgun, Multi-Gun rules. “8.5.1 Except when the competitor is actually aiming or shooting at targets all movement (see Glossary, App. A3) must be accomplished with the fingers visibly outside the trigger guard and the safety should be engaged. The firearm must be pointed in a safe direction.” That’s exactly what I was looking for. Apparently, I don’t even know what sport I’m practicing for, lol. I ran into a friend yesterday that shoots 3-Gun and he made it sound like 8.5.1 is not enforced. He said he tries to flip on the safety if he’s got a long run to the next shooting position, but not during reloads and such.

Just asking...

Safety is supposed to be on after make ready and can come off after the start signal.

I didn’t know if it was necessary to put on the safety during mag changes or when moving to a new position. It sounds like it’s similar to a 1911 in USPSA. Thanks.

Had the same issue with 9mm. As mentioned above, I started beveling the pin and the problem went away. Thanks to this forum... it really made things run a lot smoother.