dajarrel

Mr. Sweeney, It had something to do with the width of a horses arse, didn't it? Dennis

Hey folks, I know this is a 'dumb-as-a-rock' question, but.... I have often wondered and have never asked. A .40 S&W bullet is .400" in diameter. A .22 bullet is .220" in diameter A .357 magnum bullet is .357" in diameter Now, Why is a .38 special .357" in diameter and why is a .380 (sometimes refered to as a 9mm short) actually .356" in diameter? Dennis

If my boss gives me a cash bonus, he will typically give the good words as well, but not necessarily the other way around Dennis

BDH, Because you can shoot through the orange stuff, we typically use it as a soft cover and allow or built the cof to encourgage shots throught it. If we want hard cover we use black poly sheeting which gives complete visual blockage plus shows a bullet hole if shot through. Both the orange stuff and the black poly can be built on a 2x2 frame if properly braced and most of the time be reused afterward. When we shoot indoors, we just use the magic duct tape and drape the sheeting from the target tracks to make lanes or walls. BTW, it sure is fun to watch the open gunners with thier fire-breathers shoot through the orange fence material or a port in the black plastic. (sometimes makes it ruff on reusing the plastic ) Dennis

"~ Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night. " I just can't imagine Dennis

a-44978, I too use a lee decapper/sizing die in my 550b. I think the reason it helps is that it doesn't have as much bevel in the mouth that the dillon die has. The bell sometimes makes starting a piece of brass in the die easier (a dillon selling point) , but it just doesn't go far enough down to complete the sizing, IMHO. I shoot all .40 brass (glock fired included) and the only brass I avoid is S&B which I avoid like the plague. It seems to be thinner at the web and in my machine about 1 in 10 won't fit in my guage. I think I am like most in that I lose the brass before I wear it out. Dennis

Here in Mobile, AL on the Sunny (Soggy??) Gulf coast where we have about 80 inches of rain a year, rust and mildew (FWIW Not a part of this thread but keep an eye on your leather goods as well) are always a potential problem. As far as my 550B goes, I have found that regular use (and lubrication to keep the press running) will prevent any rusting of consequence. I typically lubricate with BreakFree CLP which is great for keeping a coating of lube/rust preventitive on your press. However, I do not lube any part of my dies. IMHO, lube and primers/powder do not mix. Too much chance of contamination. You can fight it, and somewhat reduce it, but metal in a humid atmosphere, unless coated in cosmoline will always rust!!!! Just my humble opinion. Dennis

In reply to Sheldons comment, I don't know about accuracy, but the base of a FMJ has exposed lead whereas the JHP or TMJ doesn't. The jacketed base is more consistant than exposed lead. The exposed lead probably isn't a concern to most folks but if you shoot at an indoor range, you put just about as much vaporized lead into the air as a non-jacketed bullet . Not a problem in a properly ventelated indoor range, but just a nugget of information from the worthless knowledge source. dj

It is rumored that Jerry Miculec has a revolver frame welded to the dash of his truck so he can practice trigger pull. I think the idea is dry fire, dry fire, dry fire then repeat!!! Smooth internals and adequate hand/finger strenght will go a long way toward making that 8-9# trigger feel alot lighter. One of the posters above asked the question about "what does a sear look like" We all had to start somewhere in our amature pistol-smithing, but be smart about it and be sure to read up on the proceedure before starting a trigger job. As it is, when properly stoned and polished, the single action just about shouldn't be used as it has a very, very low trigger pull. Almost scary!!!!! But be sure and purchase a book or get with someone who has experience before removing any metal. As far as a reduced trigger return spring goes, I agree totally with Intel6 that a full strenght spring be used. I just cannot move my finger back fast enough to get quick double-taps without some assistance from the full strenght spring. Also, my preferences are Federal primers and N320 powder for 610 loads. sorry to have rambled on so long. Dennis

"An armed society is a polite society." Robert Heinlein

BigDave, I''m hooked too!!! One of the reasons I got the 610 was so that I could shoot the same round in my revolver that I do in my limited gun. The pf is 3-5 points lower so if I want to make 165 in my rev. I have to load to about 170 for my limited gun. No problem. I am currently loading two loads. One is my outdoor load, I cast my on RNFP 175 grain lead bullets and load them with 6.3 gr of HS-6. I use a Federal small pistol primer and range brass. This comes up a little short on pf in the 610 but is great for practice. My indoor load (we shoot at an indoor range year-round) is a 180 gr Montana Gold FMJ over the same 6.3 grains of HS-6 with the Fed. primer and range brass. This one bounces around the low limit of 165 in my 610. The same loads shot in my limited gun (STI w/Briley topend) will run about 168-170 pf. Feel free to use these loads but work up to them to be safe!!!!! Dennis

Flexmoney, I agree about the humidity. It is particularly troublesome here in the deep south. However, I have tried a different approach. I leave a dessicant pack in my powder hopper. I haven't had any moisture related problems with my reloads. It works for me. YMMV Dennis

Hey guys, I'm a new guy to this forum and have been fighting leading in various calibers for years. I believe you can push a bullet too hard and cause lead to "strip off" and leave lead in the grooves. I have also found that a bullet that won't obscurate (swell or bump up) when fired will let gas get by the bullet and "melt" off lead and cause leading. But the one thing that I found that reduced and almost eliminated my leading is making sure that the bullet diameter is at least .001" greater than the bore. For example in a .40S&W, the bore diameter is .400". If you size your bullets to .400" it will let gas leak by, but if you size to .401", in my experience, almost all the leading stops. The same applies to my .357 revolver: .357"=leading, .358" greatly reduced leading. Alot of really hard core accuracy shooters will recommend "slugging" your barrel by pushing a soft lead slug down it and then measuring the actual barrel diameter, groove to groove, and adding .001" to that measurement. Dennis