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Blackstone45

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Posts posted by Blackstone45

  1. 3 hours ago, THS said:

    Which brand are you talking about?

     

    I bought 2 universal 45 degree offset mounts for AR's, and they came with a pile of different screws and pins.   The pins were in different lengths and diameters for a specific dot.  Same for the screws.  

     

    I'd think anything for a milled slide would be similar, but a dot reciprocating on a slide is taking more shock that one on an AR upper so the design may have to be all steel to work.

    I was thinking of this CZ Custom mount:

    https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/red-dot-mounting/czc-multi-optic-side-scope-mount-with-thumb-rest.html

  2. I have a question regarding using a universal dot mount. The common optic footprints such as the Shield and Trijicon have sockets that are designed to fit onto pins/nubs (whatever they're called) on the mount. I assume the purpose of those is to help secure the optic even more. But on a universal dot mount, it's not going to have these pins, only the various tapped holes for the various mount screws. Is this likely to cause a problem with securing the dot, or are the two screws used to mount the optic generally adequate for keeping the optic secure?

  3. On 10/11/2023 at 12:13 AM, jimbullet said:

    I’m shooting irons. So if it’s tension of the firing hand which is right hand for me, what is a good tension? Strangely sometimes I call it to be a good shot with sights aligned and logos lift when it breaks but actual shot placement is way off to the left. 

    Hold the gun with just enough force in the right hand to stop it from being able to move freely. So grip it, and then try to push the gun around with your other hand.  Then test it in live fire as well, see if you can feel the gun moving in your right hand during recoil. Once you've established what that force is, then do not grip the gun harder than that with the right hand. Instead, most of the grip pressure should come from your support hand.

  4. 3 minutes ago, Schutzenmeister said:

    I must confess, I've never seen this document.  I shall review it more carefully.

    In fairness, I can't seem to find it on the IPSC website itself. But I do know our NROI instructors worked to that manual, or some version of it.

  5. There isn't really a 'best' holster. Eric Grauffel uses a CR Speed. Christian Sailer uses DAA. They all do the job. I've personally only ever used the DAA holsters so I can speak to their high level of adjustability.

  6. 36 minutes ago, rayw1128 said:

    Question regarding replacing the JP5 stock trigger (that came with the competition model) with Geissele SD3G trigger...  

     

    1, Does the SD3G trigger work with the JP5?  I read on another post that someone is having issues with getting the trigger to work on the JP5.  

     

    2, If the trigger works, do I use the pins from the JP5?  Or would I need to get other pins? 

     

    3, If the trigger works, do I need to replace the safety?  Heard there is a notch (or bump) on the JP5 saftey that restrict the function of the saftey with replacement triggers.

     

    Appreciate any input and guidance!

     

     

     

    Max has said in this thread that the SD3G worked flawlessly for him. I don't know what trigger he currently runs

     

     

  7. On 9/22/2023 at 3:45 PM, Darqusoull13 said:

    5. JP sells them and you can add TF extensions. Or you can do places like Gunmagwarehouse etc. Glock big sticks with TF basepads are the standard. Snag a Magpul drum for the lulz and outlaw stages. Add 1-2 TTI easy off basepads for reload mags and you're good to go. 
     

    Are you talking about the TF 'Goliath' basepad with the 'sword grip'?

  8. On 9/21/2023 at 2:16 AM, Runswithwood1 said:

    On what part of the trigger bar did they remive material? I've recently gotten into tinkering with CZs and learning all I can

    I believe it was this part, which when you pull the trigger, moves back and disengages the sear from the hammer.

    image.png.447bda2e8684405c9a3f467d18ebbaf3.png

    After removing the material, when the slide pushes the trigger bar down, that part will no longer disengage the sear

  9. Maybe try loading up some dummy rounds, and alternating live rounds with dummies. I used this to diagnose some issues when I was shooting doubles. I'd pull the trigger twice, the second shot should be a click, and I can see exactly what my hands are doing.

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