IHAVEGAS
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Posts posted by IHAVEGAS
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32 minutes ago, JAFO said:
I'm not familiar with the situation you're describing, but since the safety doesn't have to be on when the hammer is down, what would the ruling need to address?
Whether or not the safety is supposed to work under all conditions, as I recall one reason things get sticky is that the safety works in both hammer back and hammer forward positions on stock guns. When you read appendix D4 22.1 it sort of makes it obvious why there could be disparity of interpretation.
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22 hours ago, Sarge said:
Hardass or not I just show them the timer to indicate time is running.
I prefer a Sargeism I read on a scoring thread, something like "even as an r.o. sometimes we have to use common sense". That is not an exact quote, best as I can remember though.
I do agree on being hard core on the safety stuff, but not on the ticky tack stuff. If I was going to punish somebody over a beeper issue I would have to first be sure that the beeper was held correctly, the beep was not unusually quiet, there was no unusual visual or audible disturbance, and my timing was indeed correct.
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Speaking of production equipment checks , was their ever a ruling about the CZ's where the thumb safety worked if you put it on when the hammer was back (as designed) but not if you applied the safety with the hammer fully down?
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54 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
It’s a Tanfo dude. The Italians drill the holes in exciting new places on every gun. That’s what gives them character.
“The perfect blossom is a rare thing. You could spend your whole life looking for one, and it would not be a wasted life”
– The Last SamuraiApparently I just needed a pin that worked well with the tolerances on this gun. I think the learning for me is even when you are installing known good parts always do the safety checks.
Stainless steel has been a pain in the arse for me to work with on other stuff, I wonder if Tanfo is any more consistent on tolerances with the non ss guns.
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Fiddling with my 1 gun that intermittently allows me to push the past the block.
What I have found so far is that my gun works with oem & EG firing pins which measure 0.2040" and 0.2045" from the flat that contacts the block to the opposite round surface but fails intermittently with the PD pin which measures 0.2010” . The extended block did not require fitting so it should be dimensionally as new.
For what it is worth. Sent a note to the brain trust at PD, seems like (my gut sez) a difference of 0.0030 - 0.0035" should not be enough to create a problem under normal circumstances so I'm wondering if tolerance of this gun is somewhat on the edge in one regard or another.
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38 minutes ago, GrumpyOne said:
Glad to be of assistance 3 years ago!
Appreciated!!
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On 10/8/2015 at 9:50 AM, GrumpyOne said:
Also, try to load a bit longer...I use essentially the same bullet in my Shadow and I load to 1.150
7 hours ago, bschulte said:I am having this exact same problem on my CTS. Did you ever find a solution?
147 SNS truncated cone at 1.135 was what I was having the issues with. Went to 1.151 & have since run several thousand through 4 different CZ's with no worries, none of the guns have had their barrels reamed.
Have since switched from being a CZ nut to a being Tanfo nut, mostly, the Tanfo's like 147 RN at 1.15 and that seems fine with the CZ's also but I have not run lots of RN through the CZ's so I would not spike the ball on that.
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On 7/24/2018 at 3:28 PM, Nalle2491 said:
Our local matches are anywhere from 8 to 12 people per squad. I couldnt imagine shooting a 20 person squad. It already goes slow enough.
I would need to find a hobby to do while I was waiting to do my hobby.
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1 minute ago, Toolguy said:
If in the forcing cone area and an inch or two forward, look for a too small forcing cone, barrel to cylinder misalignment at the time of firing, and a choked barrel where it screws into the frame.
That.
Thank you!
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13 hours ago, Toolguy said:
but can get small groups with jacketed, cast and polymer coated
Any thoughts about a gun that shoots polymer coated extremely well but then accuracy goes to the toilet as it leads up excessively, and is a real pain to clean?
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10 minutes ago, Prov1x said:
So what most are suggesting is that the R.O. ask everyone that comes to the line what division they are shooting so that the R.O. can make sure they are within their division requirements?
I guess somebody could enter a match that did not have an equipment check and try to get buy with running an open rig in production or something like that.
Real world wise though it is usually obvious except for limited versus limited 10 and major versus minor. Right or wrong their is some level of trust involved.
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On 4/10/2018 at 10:13 PM, StuckinMS said:
Practice live at further distances, like 40 yards. If you consistently practice at 10 yards you will become good at 10 yards, mix it up. Stay after it, it will come.
I think I have the same draw at 3 yards as I do at 50. I think Jerry Miculek coined the term "25 yard draw" for folks that slow down the draw speed when they have a difficult first shot, there is no reason to do things any different that I know of.
On 4/13/2018 at 7:05 PM, Jake Di Vita said:Why don't you like rotating the whole arm from the shoulder? I have found this to be more consistent than rotating from the elbow for me (I think there are fewer variables with this method) and it doesn't appear to be any slower at all. I get a dry grip, set the angle of my elbow, then rotate my arm as a unit.
What type of holster if you do not mind? Am wondering about the best motion for a typical production rig.
3 hours ago, Blackstone45 said:I think it's important not to sacrifice a good grip for a fast draw time, given that the draw is just the first couple of seconds of a stage, and a poor grip will affect your shooting for the entirety of that stage
Hmm, next range visit I want to compare my fastest draw time to my match mindset draw time, I'm guessing that the difference will be something like 0.2 seconds. Would be interesting to know how others approach this and if they do draw slower in a match by how much.
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1 hour ago, mstamper said:
as a newly certified RO,
14 minutes ago, wtturn said:As an RO you generally have a better vantage point if you're not up in the shooters' underwear.
I don't see experienced r.o.'s crowd a shooter, particularly on stages where running backwards (planned, or unexpectedly to pick up a dropped mag or forgotten target) is a feature and on stages where there is potential for an r.o. trap. You can control the shooter with your voice without being close to him.
I do not want the shooter to see or hear me if possible, although with some of the mouse fart quiet pcc's sometimes you do have to be closer than is ideal for safety or for non interference.
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4 hours ago, B_RAD said:
They pull out the overlay and just use one to line up the perf then say no it doesn't touch. I ask them to use both.
How often do you folks find a need for the second overlay?Wouldn't have a problem using both if that made the shooter happy, just seems rare when things are so close that 1 does not make for a solid conclusion.
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If the shadow lite felt good to me I would get a 75 or 85, probably the latter due to no firing pin block, install the CGW upgrades including precision bushing, and pocket the price difference.
LS-P's are nice, what I used to shoot, if you like the sight radius & grip that is a good way to go.
If you liked the grip of your stock 2 I'd think about waiting just a little bit for either a small frame limited pro (sight radius) or one of the new stock 1's.
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15 hours ago, johnbu said:
Actually, if the Patriot Palm Swells had the LOK texture, that would be ideal
From the PD website "However, the end user will have the ability to add stippling as well if they choose so since the polymer material allows for such modifications. " . Not sure how much of a pain it would be or how easy it would be to screw up though.
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40 minutes ago, 858 said:
What kind of sight do you think comes on most 2011?
And 1911's, etc.
It would be interesting to compare sight brands and etc..
I've broken 1 front and one rear grand total over too many years of shooting and almost all of it with adjustable rear sights.
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PD "bright red" on my new toy. Besides feeling good I thought they gave the basic blue gun some pizzaz.
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27 minutes ago, HoMiE said:
Just because you shoot a wall or prop does not mean it’s an automatic AD.
Agreed, I was trying to figure out what wgj3 meant by "engaging" hard cover.
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19 minutes ago, wgj3 said:
Which is perfectly "legal" to engage...
What point are you making here? I guess you could say you were engaging a wall or a berm or the ground anytime you are not engaging a target?
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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:
The leg at the top of the sear on that side of the gun lifts the firing pin block up and clears the path for the firing pin to strike the primer.
(These underlined links / advertisements are getting very annoying...)
Another nice theory ruined by information. Thanks. Might ask PD about this one.
Vigilink sucks.
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11 hours ago, johnbu said:
If they slip forward with light -moderate force, it may have a couple of things possible.
1) the firing pin has had the "shoulder" rounded from contacting the FPB
2) the firing pin block has been rounded from contact with the firing pin.
3) the "fitting" was too aggressive and too much material has been removed.
4) rare but possible .. the firing pin or FPB hole in the slide could have been overly "polished" and be too large.
Now, your "moderate" may be my heavy force. Inspect the FPB and firing pin for signs of rounding from contact. If they don't show rounding, you are probably OK. If they do show rounding, they may be best replaced.
Hmmm, 2 guns work aok, 1 works intermittently (I have a Tanfo problem).
Is it contact from the trigger bar that pushes the block up and in position to stop the firing pin ? On my gun that works intermittently the arm of the bar on the firing pin block side is lower than on the other side, perhaps this is normal but it made me wonder about trigger bar geometry & lifter spring & etc..
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1 hour ago, Janskis said:
Wrong. This has been covered in the official IPSC forum and there it has been ruled that if you can actually see the target, you can see the target as far as rules are concerned.
Another case where IPSC and USPSA rules differ?
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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:
@IHAVEGAS it is required with a titan hammer in many cases. The firing pin block otherwise will drag on the pin, or block it entirely.
There’s no advantage to it. It simoly accomodates certain sear/hammer combinations that move the firing pin block less than the original parts did.
You are a wealth of info, thanks!
FWIW, tried just the sear & springs and polish on my latest adventure, if my other guns did not have the bolo & the other bells & whistles I think I would be fine without them. Trying to go back and forth between guns sucks though, seems like you said something similar going from a highly modded Tanfo to a Glock or something.
Any love for the new Stock 1 ?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Pictures, or it is not happening (internet rule)
. HC should open up the market to a whole lot of people who just like slick looking guns.
Wonder if it will be hard chrome only or if there will still be some blue guns?