JPG

Sweet! Will try to be there Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Funny - I'm trying to get ideas for my new SV

Trying to get ideas for my custom serial number - what did you guys go with? ...how's that for a lazy Sunday post? Haha

Hey David - just my $0.02 as a person who still shoots IDPA and USPSA regularly, and likes them both. My short answer to your question is: shoot both. Any time I'm pulling the trigger, I'm smiling! As others have said, these games are very different. IDPA emphasizes more tactical-ish aspects of pistol shooting while USPSA is more about movement and strategy. If you go into each game knowing that they are different, you will have a great time with either. I think IDPA is better for beginners because you don't have to think about "how" you will shoot a stage. Typically, there is only 1 way to shoot a stage, and the game is to see which shooter can execute the stage procedure in the quickest and most efficient manner. Scoring is also easier to understand. In USPSA, the things that I think make it fun, i.e. more rounds down range, less 'tactical' rules, no target engagement procedures, etc, may make the game a little more daunting for a beginner. It is definitely a faster game. There are also less rules around how you shoot a stage. Scoring is also a little bit more complicated though. After awhile, you'll gravitate towards one or the other. I, like many on this forum, prefer USPSA (I got bitten by the open gun bug), but IDPA is also fun. In a couple of months, I expect to see you posting about your first 3-gun experience... Now THAT's fun!!

When I reload 9, I typically deprime and case gauge before cleaning. This way, I can identify any bulges before loading them up. Then, I case gauge them agan before putting them into the ammo box. Yes, I'm a little OCD when it comes to case gauging. So now, I am preparing to load my first batch of 38 super comp. I have a case gauge for 38 super auto - will this work for 38 super comp brass? The reason I ask is because I'm finding a LOT more bulged cases than with 9. It is probably due to the increased pressures, but it can't hurt to ask if I'm using the correct gauge. Thanks in advance!

Another vote for FP10 Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

My current open gun does not have a slide racker. I'm starting a new build this week - current "spec" includes a slide racker. Space wise, I don't need it because I'm going with the RTS2. There are 2 advantages that I see to having one: - no need to take your eyes off the sight when racking during a stage - slide racker props up the gun for easier table draw. Are there other functional reasons to have a slide racker? Disadvantages? My main concern is that I don't it to drag the attention of my eye when I get sight picture. Thoughts?

Any USPSA and/or IDPA matches in the area between 7/19 and 7/26? We will be traveling there for vacation that week. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for this - just sent him an email

Just got my first open gun, so I now need to make ammo Up until now, I've reloaded 9 and 45 - and you can find that brass almost anywhere. 38sc brass is harder to come by, and Starline/Midway/Powder Valley/etc seem to be perpetually out of stock. Who else makes 38sc brass? (Admittedly, I tried to search the site, but any combo of search terms only brought results that talked about Starline). Thanks in advance folks!

TX - 1

I'm in!

Ha! Good that your load works!. When I first started reloading, I had the rifle cylinder in the powder measure. Trouble was, I was loading 9mm - it'd throw 3.8 gr, then 4.0 gr, then 3.5, etc etc etc. I tried calibrating the thing for days until I figured out that I had the wrong thing in there. Live and learn I guess

Really? I'm also running 147gr Xtremes with 3.3 gr of HP38 and I cycle fine. Glock 34 gen 4 - standard springs. Chrono ave was 850 - need a touch more to make minor PF, but no cycle issues

I'm talking about cleaning the inside of the comp chambers. I've read on different threads that keeping the comp chambers 'unfouled' is a good thing - helps keep the comp running optimally. I've used the nylon brush on medium speeds and have had good results. There is still a little caking of powder/lead/whatever it is. I think I want to try that slip2000 before the brass brush. Let you know what happens.

I know this topic has been brought up ad nauseam, but I wanted to ask those who use Dremels to clean their comps if you've ever used the brass brush attachment. Maybe more specifically, why "shouldn't" I use the brass brush? To me, using the ball engraving tip can be a recipe for disaster as you can cut away some serious metal if you do it wrong. Since bore brushes are also made of brass, wouldn't the dremel brass brush be safer? Thoughts?