scottlep

Might be helpful to mention what brand/type of dot or mount you are using. C-more gives pretty good instructions for mounting, but if you are using a different mount (Brazzo, Allchin, Cheely, etc.) they might not provide instrux. If it is a C-more there is a ton of adjustment for elevation and windage. Other brands, I am not sure about. All the mounts I have seen are parallel/square with the dust cover and slide.

Low left is usually a trigger jerk. <<Link to Handgun Target Analysis Guide

Good idea on the tumbler. I might hit them with a coat of car wax afterwords to see if it seals them and helps slow the rust. Still waiting for STI to open so I can call and get their input.

Yes, I am well aware that stainless steel can rust. I guess my point is that for what these mags cost, one would assume they wouldn't rust. Like I said, I have dozens of other stainless mags that have all seen much more use, cared for and cleaned in the same way, and are stored in the same environment and not one of those has a single speck of rust on them.

I doubt it is sweat. I do wipe down everything after I shoot and I also have dozens of other stainless mags for other guns that have never rusted. If they rust on the outside, I am guessing that they are also rusting on the inside which will impact the function of the mags at some point. It's hard to believe that mags that are this expensive and are supposed to be stainless steel will rust. I will wait to see what STI says when I call them today and then post their answer here.

I also though it was odd that the older ones didn't rust and the newer ones did. Manufacturing problem? Maybe STI is using cheaper or different stainless? I am going to call STI later today to get their opinion.

I have 3 brand new STI 140mm 9mm mags I just bought. I pulled them out yesterday to load them for a steel match and they all had a light coating of surface rust. I would think this is not normal considering they are supposed to be stainless steel. I used them a few times for practice and shot one match with them. Never used them in the rain and they have never hit wet ground. I have two older mags that were stored in the same mag pouch and those did not have any rust on them...only the new ones did. Has anyone else experienced this?

The stages will also look a little different depending on where you stand in the box. Front vs. back, left front vs right rear of the box...etc. You can trim time off a stage by standing in a different place in the box for certain stages. Alot of shooters always just stand towards the front thinking that it is closer so it will be faster. But if you walk up to a stage and move around the box you change perspective and relationship of the geometry of the stage and can get plates to line up better for faster transitions or get wide stages to seem narrower, etc just by changing positions in the box.

There are a bunch of variable that can affect draw times. Distance to first plate, size and shape of first plate. Iron sights vs red dot, etc. My usual draw time, with my open gun with a C-more red dot, to a 10" round plate at 15 yards with an accurate hit on the plate are 1.2 - 1.4...maybe a little faster if I can get in some holster draw dry fire practice before a match. I know some other guys that I shoot with (and also shoot much more than me) that can draw on the same 10" @ 15yds in under 0.8....with iron sights.

Got it fixed. I backed out the OT screw a half turn and opened up the mag catch holes in the newer mags to the same size as the older mags. She is running like a raped ape now. Thank you all so much for your suggestions. You guys rock!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Thanks 748, I will give that a try. I was going to try backing out the OT screw when I shot it today, but didn't have the correct size allan wrench with me.

Thanks Alan, I will do the measurement when I get home from work today. To add a little more info....the hard trigger pull doesn't seem like a dragging type resistance. It is more like one point of resistance. When I do force the trigger during the malfunction it goes off with more of a breaking action than a dragging. Hopes that makes sense.

I am having a weird issue with my new (used...but new to me) 2011 STI open gun. I will try to explain it the best I can. Sorry if this gets long winded. The gun came with two 140mm mags and I just bought three more brand new 140mm STI mags. Here is the scenario. If I use each of the mags, shooting slowly, etc. they load in the gun fine and run great. But lets say I am practicing my reloads. I will start with say 5 rounds in each of the five mags. Lets say mag #1 and #2 are the used ones and mags #3, #4, #5 are the new ones. I will start the practice run with mag #1, run it empty, drop the mag, go to #2, run it dry (no problems so far), drop the mag, load #3....big problem. The trigger gets so hard to press that I almost cannot even get the gun to go bang. If I drop the mag, the problem goes away. I can pull the trigger with the normal amount of resistance. I put the same mag back it...run it dry with no problems, drop it, then load #4...the same thing....I can barely pull the trigger hard enough to get the gun to go off. If I force the trigger to make the gun go off and I don't drop the mag each subsequent trigger pull for that mag is very hard. Not as hard as the first one but much harder than the normal 2# pull. I detail stripped the gun last night and went over all the parts and gave it the best cleaning I think I have ever given a gun. But I still have the problem. I assume that it is something related to the newer mags since it never happens with the older mags. I haven't had time to compare the new and old mags with a set a calipers, but a visual check of the new mags really shows no major differences between the old and new. Also, the problem doesn't occur if I put the new mags in the gun empty. I just wanted to get a jump on gathering info since I am supposed to shoot a match with the gun this weekend and want to get it straightened out before then. Any info would be greatly appreciated!!! Sorry if this topic was covered in BE before. I searched but wasn't sure how to ask/search for the problem.

It might be helpful to mention what brand of conversion you are using. I think the Marvel kits have two different models, one that locks back and one that doesn't. Not sure about Tactical Solutions or the others.

GT Targets builds some of the best steel targets in the industry and is a sponsor of many events across the country. http://www.gttargets.com Karl, the owner, is also an active BE forum member

http://www.egwguns.com/miscellaneous-parts/thumb-guard-for-1911/ You would probably need a gunsmith to install though.

Keep your eye on http://gunbot.net/ammo/22lr/ Although alot of what shows up is way overpriced, or the stuff that isn't overpriced sells out instantly

Check a craft supply or art supply store. On the East Coast we have Michael's and AC Moore....maybe even Staples. Not sure what stores are out in Colorado.

Hey Karl!! Funny you are the first to comment on my post. How is your trip going so far? ~Scott

Currently, in a local Steel Challenge league, I am running a 9mm 115 grain plated (3.7 grains of W231) load that is chronoed at just under 900FPS. I am shooting a 9mm 1911 with a Wilson bushing compensator, EGW tungsten full length guide rod, C-More, and a 5lb recoil spring. The load is accurate, has about the same the same recoil as a 22 and the gun runs it with no problems. I am just wondering if anyone else runs loads that are this light for Steel Challenge?