roostershooter

Yeah, it has gotten so bad that I'm thinking about taking them off, and selling them as 'Slightly Used / Like New'. I went out shooting again this afternoon, and got frustrated so I gave up. I think I'm going to put a set of Trijicon HD Night Sights on the Glock 20, like the sights I have on my M&P Pro 5". I have zero issues with the Trijicon sights, plus the front sight is a bright orange! I can understand where people might want to use the XS Sights on a CCDW pistol, or the like. However, for target shooting ... I don't like them.

I recently installed a set of XS Big Dot 24/7 Sights on my Glock 20. Prior to the switch I was shooting 8" groups at 15 yds, which I am happy with. Now, after switching to the XS sights I am all over the paper! Even though I align my rear sight to the 6 O'clock of the front dot, as described in the literature, I still can't hit the broad side of a barn. My shots are all over the paper, and I find myself concentrating more on the sight alignment than I did with the factory Glock sights. Any suggestions?

If you're wanting a good trigger ... go with a Huber Concepts trigger. You won't be disappointed.

Welcome to the forum. I'm fairly new myself and from Owensboro. There are a lot of great folks around here. Don't be afraid to ask "silly" questions. They won't make you feel stupid like some people on other forums. A great bunch of folks here who are interested in expanding the sport.

Yes, I noticed that on my new model / revision M&P 9 Pro 5". However, thanks for the heads up for everyone else.

Thanks. Since necessity is the mother of invention I came up with a temporary solution, just in case anyone is ever in the same boat. I used a .308 brass as a punch and hit a plastic coffee can lid to cut out a little circle. It is a little larger than the original, but it works in a pinch. At least my pistol won't be inoperable until the replacement gets here.

I lost the disc under the rear sight on my M&P while switching out the sights this afternoon. Where can I buy a replacement, other than S&W? S&W always takes 2 or 3 weeks when I order parts from them, and I'm needing it sooner. Thanks

Are you using a 180 gr. XTP / Hap?

First off, I'm fairly new here myself, but I will post my experiences and you can take them with a grain of salt, or heed my warning. Nu-Finish car wax is NOT good for your brass. I know some guys who swear by it, but they have never studied the long term affects on brass like I have. Several years ago I did a 6 month study on the use of various brass media additives, and found Nu Finish to be one of the worst. Long term, it caused dirt and grime to adhere to cases, melted a few styrofoam storage trays, left deposits in sizing dies, and even caused chamber dimension changes after 2500 rounds in a test barrel. To elaborate a little. 1) Almost all of the treated cases (200 of 250) took on an orange 'leopard spot' appearance after only 4 months in storage. 2) Dust, dirt, and grime adhered more readily to fired cases than to non-treated cases. 3) Three of five 223 / 5.56 brass styrofoam storage inserts showed signs of 'petroleum' style degradation and damage after only 3 months. 4) The inside of the sizing die used exclusively for the sizing of the treated brass showed signs of waxy deposits throughout. 5) A standard ER Shaw 5.56 barrel showed signs of dimension changes after being used to fire 5 - 500 round test firings with cleaning in between. Evidently, CLP does not break down Carnauba Wax and some of the other additives that are in Nu Finish. Furthermore, a car wax is designed to create a thin barrier over a surface to protect the surface from the elements. It is not heat resistant! Have you ever picked up a hot piece of brass after firing? Of course you have. The melting point of carnauba wax is around 160 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the grade. Since The Law of Conservation of Mass teaches us that "Matter is neither created nor destroyed" it has to go somewhere! The wax isn't gasified, so it remains a solid. So, after all of these tests using 4 other brands or styles of 'media polish' I settled on Flitz Media Additive. It performs the best out of the 5 I tested. As a note ... Don't use Brasso or Metal Flitz on your brass. Just a warning. Brasso weakens brass and can cause them to rupture due to the decreased elasticity caused by the leaching of elements from the brass.

Wow, talk about digging up an old thread! I think that's a record! 5 years !!!!

I'm looking for a new 'flavor' aside from my usual 180 gr. Hornady HAP and Power Pistol Load. Anyone have any other suggestions? I'm just looking for a paper punching load to have fun with on the weekends. Thanks

First off .... Do you have the Pro 9 that is 5", or the 4.25" model? They come with different sight setups. The Pro 4.25" models come with night sights, and the 5" models come with Novak rear and green fiber front.

x2 How Colt ever got a contract for the 1911 ... I'll never know! Their most recent offerings leave you wishing you never bought them. The last Colt 1911 I owned was back in 2000, and I promptly sold it for a Dan Wesson 7460. The problems that I had with the Colt soured me on 1911's for a long time. There are already cracked slide and ejection issues showing up in testing. The money could have been better spent elsewhere.

To answer the OP's question. It all depends on how your water is. For instance, I learned a long time ago, through winemaking, that the water where I live is very high in lime due to the natural deposits where it comes from. For my water to be appropriate for sonic cleaning I only put about 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of LemiShine in a gallon of water. However, 1/4 teaspoon is pushing it! Too much LemiShine and you will get an orange tinge if you leave it in too long. With LemiShine, a dab will do ya! More is NOT better with this product. I've been using the same can that I bought 2 years ago, and I still have half a can left. I've read where some guys will even add a very small amount (1/8 tsp.) of 'Simple Green'. However, it all depends on your cleaning preference. I choose not to use Simple Green because it's just something else I have to add. Simple is better in my opinion.

I'm going for Target PF Seriously, I don't really care about the power factor. I assume that these are hollow based bullets (exposed lead base) that I will be using for paper punching and slapping steel. Practice is my main priority for this bullet.

I picked up 5k 115 gr. Winchester RN bullets yesterday on the cheap. I would like a good, accurate, tested load for this bullet using Power Pistol, N320, N330, or N340. I picked up 8 pounds of PP and 4 pounds of each of the VihtaVouri powders listed. Any suggestions?

I hate the stock finish on my Glock 20 SF, and am looking to redo it as soon as I find an alternative. I have the equipment and training for firearms finish applications, and can't figure out which one to use. In the past I have used Duracoat, but I'm not sure that it will stand up to the reholstering and slide friction. So, what should I use? I've thought about sending it off for an EXO job, but couldn't find any feedback on it. Basically, I don't like the chalky gray finish that comes on the Glock slides now, and want something more appealing.

It's interesting that you mention 'Nu-Finish' car wax. I just completed a 6 month experiment using 3 different media additives, and Nu Finish came out last with the worst results. I'm not knocking your system, but I found it to tarnish a lot of brass over time, and causes the brass to 'leach' nickel. Something about the compound that causes it to 'spot' brass after a certain period of time over long storage periods. Some of the .223 brass I used came out of storage literally spotted like a leopard. As for the media being too dusty. Cut a drier sheet into 1" squares and throw that in the mix at every tumbling. Not only does the drier sheet suck up the gunk, but it also soaks up the dust from the walnut hulls.

Does the stippling give you a better purchase on the pistol? Also, how much is the grip circumference reduced with the grip job? I believe we've talked about it before, but I like my SF grip. I'd like it even better if I could get an additional 1/8" total circumference off of the grip. Your thoughts?

Thanks for the replies guys! I now feel confident that if I take my time I will be ok. You know how the internet is. You only hear the worst, and when someone makes a mistake using their press and a certain product ... you only hear the worst. Also, more often than not the user will blame the press and components for the mistake instead of placing blame where it's due. Have a great weekend and thanks again for your replies.

I've checked and double checked all of these loads, and they are considered 'safe' by any manual I've run them through. Keep them coming guys. You're giving me some promising results.

To sum it up ... Yes! Federal primers are different than Federal Match Primers. The product numbers are as follows .... Standard Federal Large Pistol Primers .... #150 Federal 'Gold Medal' Large Pistol Match Primers .... #GM150M

Before I start, I know that it's not advised to use Federal Gold Match Primers in a Dillon XL650 due to their thin cups. However, I ran out of primers this past week and panicked, so I ordered 10k of the only LP Primer I could get my hands on ... Federal Gold Match LP. If I go slow, and pay attention, should I be ok with loading them in my Dillon XL650? The only times I've heard of people having problems are when they get in a hurry and something binds up. Then they try and use brute force to 'unstick' their press which results in a primer detonation. Your thoughts?

Wish I would've known about it earlier. Guess I need to keep up! Rockcastle is only an hours drive for me.

I heard it through the 'grapevine', albeit a little too late, but is there a big match going on at Rockcastle this week? Word has it that a lot of the shooting industries 'big wigs' are down at Rockcastle this week for a big shoot that is due to end today or tomorrow. Anyone have a scoop on it?