PatJones
-
Posts
2,294 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by PatJones
-
-
I like the stage points system. If you blow a single stage in a USPSA match, it doesn't effect your whole match in the same way it would in a time plus scoring system.
-
First, I would get away from the pinned front sight and go to this. http://www.jackweigand.com/interfs.html
Then, you will be able to readily change out the front sight to suit your needs. I did on my 627 V-Comp and have been very happy.
I would never get rid of a pinned front sight, they stay attached to the gun when you catch the edge of a port. I've put a ball bearing behind the spring of my 627's DX front sight to increase the spring tension. I prefer the pinned front on my 625.
That Wiegand system is good if you're shortening a barrel, but it adds several screws that can loosen under recoil. IMHO, simpler is better.
-
Man, that isn't a lot of cash for all of that when you start looking at widgets like magwells.
If you could find a used gun your money would go further, especially if it was already set up for competition.
Check the classifieds here in addition to looking around your local area. Talk to other competitive shooters, you never know who's trying to sell something to fund that new open gun.
-
You need a bit more light on each side of the front sight. The front sight can be narrower, it the rear can be cut wider. Try one or both.
What handgun do you shoot?
I shoot single stack and revolver. One of my revolvers has a standard factory white outline rear matched to a .100 front with a fiber optic. I'm liking this combo more and more, which surprises me after years with a plain black rear sight.
-
Yes, the factory clips are loose and hard to load with. They are too thin and this leads to the rounds flopping around.
The higher quality moons mentioned above provide a good rigid fit and load nicely. They are thicker and fill the extractor groove well. The downside is that you need to buy clips to match your brass. Not all brass has the same size of extractor groove. I shoot Remington, others shoot Starline, the moon clips are different for each one.
-
And if the half cock notch is not needed on non-decocker CZs, as you erroneously claim, why has that notch been a feature of the CZ 75 from the very first one (which was not a decocker)?
A half cock notch is a safety system. If the sear surface fails, it intercepts the sear and stops the hammer from continuing forward. It is a safety feature that has been common in hammer-fired arms since before self-contained cartridges.
Gunsmithing 101.
-
I believe the CZ 75 has an inertial firing pin just like a 1911.
An inertial firing pin is not long enough to reach the primer with the hammer in the fully forward position. You need to hit the pin with enough energy for it to continue forward alone and strike the primer. This is not possible from the resting position, the rear of the slide is blocking forward movement.
If the hammer is at half cock, and it is struck hard enough to fail and move forward, there is potential to hit the firing pin hard enough to go bang.
-
It doesn't matter what is safe. We're shooting USPSA and we either comply with the rules or go home.
-
The rules quoted above do seem to support that.
-
That only applies to de-cocking levers.http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-NROI-ruling-details.php?indx=30
Ruling on that was asked 3/6/08 and updated 6/2/14
8.1.2.2 “Double action” – chamber loaded, hammer fully down or de-
cocked.
If the competitor does not use a de-cocking lever, the hammer must be fully down.
8.5.2 does appear to support a DQ.
-
My first press was Lee classic turret. I could load 150 rounds an hour on it. All was good until I started to load for competition on it.
I shoot about the same amount each month as you do. With the increased production, the powder measure wore out and started to malfunction giving me occasional squibs.
I now have a Dillon 550. It is a different class of machine. There is no plastic to speak of. The 550 is a fairly simple machine with no auto advance, this is a positive for a novice. I now load at a slower pace than I did with the Lee and I comfortably load 400 rounds an hour once my primer tubes are full.
I sold the Lee, and I've never missed it. With large enough batches of brass I can load almost as fast on my single stage as I could on that turret.
The Dillon is a lot of money; you're paying up front for a lifetime of spare parts and service. In my experience, the Dillon presses have longer service intervals between problems than the Lee equipment.
If I was starting over and was afraid of the cost of a Dillon, I would get a good single stage press. With large batches of brass, you can load at nearly the same speed as the Lee turret, and you will always have a use for a good single stage. I still load several pistol calibers and all my rifle ammo on the old Forster Co-Ax I picked up.
-
Have a better shooter shoot a group. If it hits to point of aim for them, you need to work on your shooting.
You're unlikely to have enough windage adjustment to correct 2" at 7 yards, that is a lot.
If you do drift the sights, you'll need to move them back as your skills improve, what if that's during a match?
-
It look to me like the damage was done by dry-firing with the sideplate off.
If the hammer is dragging on the frame when it falls, the correct fix is to straighten the hammer stud. This is done with a lead babbitt. Yes, you can break off the hammer stud while doing this.
-
Security Six, speed Six Police are variances discussed at wilepedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruger_Security-Six I have the Police Security version the frames are different than the GP 100. The secruity is between the small and medium S&W frames so no real speed loaders for that model. But they are hell for stout.
Huh? Safariland makes a comp 2 for those.
-
I've got revolvers you can use, but I imagine open would suit you better.
-
I bring double the ammo I expect to need.
The double belt if a very nice convenience item. A stiff single belt works, but it takes longer to put on in the morning.
-
Things may have changed since '02 when this stage was drawn up.
Fault lines must have dimension, they cannot be flat:
2.2.1.1 Shooting Boxes and Fault Lines should be constructed of
wooden boards or other suitable material, must be fixed firmly
in place, and provide both physical and visual references to
competitors. For hard ground surfaces clear of debris, 0.75
inch material is the minimum allowable size. On other range
surfaces, such as covered with turf, sand, gravel, wood chips or
similar, thicker material which rises at least 1.5 inches above
the surface is recommended
If you want to control the shooters movement with the lines, not just where they can shoot from, you can use the tape as off limit lines. They must be elevated at least 2 feet off the ground, and you must note them in the stage briefing.
If it's your first time setting up a stage, make your life easy and just use whatever raised fault line material the club has in stock.
-
It's all in the rulebook. If you have the PDF version, the search function is your friend.
2.2.1.5 Off-Limits Lines may be used to define an area of the range floor which has been declared off-limits. The written stage briefing must identify the presence and location of Off-Limits Lines (if any). The off-limits area must be clearly delineated with rope, caution tape or other materials and must be at least 2 feet high and at least 2 feet from any Fault Line or Shooting Box. (See Rule 10.2.11). Crossing an off-limits line will result in a zero for the stage. Openings in off limits lines are allowed for RO access only; competitors may not use the openings to enter any off limits areas or move through the course of fire in a manner not indicated by the off limits lines. The lines are deemed to extend through the open areas.
-
I owned a security 6 with a 3" barrel for a time. It tuned up well, but I could never get used to the strange grip angle.
-
The lock work is similar to your gun, they're just timed up and fit a little better than the typical modern Ruger.
If you have a weird hump in the middle of your trigger pull, you should have a new hammer dog fit to your gun. (That's a double action sear in S&W speak)
Rugers respond to smoothing up the trigger just as well as S&Ws do in my experience. But their coil springs don't respond to lightening as well as the S&W flat spring does.
-
or a place to hide( L10, revolver).
Please stop lumping Revo with L10. It only has low participation numbers because you and your friends are too soft to come shoot a revolver.
-
If it ain't broke.... Don't fix it.
That said, I think you could combine production, single stack and L10 into a 8 major/10 minor division and it'd be even. All the local clubs around here publish combined scores, it appears that single stack and production are pretty heads up against each other based on classification.
I know everyone gets excited over the heavier production guns right now, but I can shoot a faster splits with my buddies Glock 34 than I can with my 1911. With the exception of Revo, I think the other low-cap divisions are pretty even with each other.
-
How do you mean "messed up?"
-
Been shooting USPSA for 3 1/2 years. Spent 3 years with an 8-shot revolver. Shot it for 2 years in production and L10 before the rule change allowing them in Revolver division. The last 6 months have been with a single stack 45. The classic nationals combining those two divisions is appealing.
So, 2 guns, 4 divisions.
USPSA SCORING
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
Come on, not so harsh.
It's a valid discussion. I shoot ICORE as well, a different scoring system does change how you shoot the game. Time plus is a marathon, USPSA is a series of sprints. The sprints are a lot more fun to shoot.