Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

PatJones

Classifieds
  • Posts

    2,294
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by PatJones

  1. If If I gave you a .38 special and loose ammo, which hand would you use to put the rounds into the cylinder? I feel that's the hand most people feel most comfortable loading moonclips with too.

    I switch hands to reload. It has always felt more natural to me to load ammo with my right hand. I only see one way for lefties to run a revo, but it looks faster than what I do.

  2. The speed will come from never missing. Its kinda fun to clean a star in 5 shots as fast as you can run a revo.

    Practice your reloads. Just like with a bottom feeder, hand speed is what makes the reload fast. You need to watch everything you do during a reload. While you're watching the moon clear the cylinder, your hand needs to get to you moonclip fast. Done right, the moonclip is waiting for the gun to get under it.

  3. It shouldn't be too difficult to make major in 38 special cases. On their website, Alliant lists a +p load with 6 grains of power pistol under a 158 grain lead semi wad cutter. Makes 163 power factor. A heavy bullet load that doesn't stray too far from published +p data should be plenty safe in a 357 Magnum revolver.

    The long Magnum brass would be a troublesome on reloads, even with moonclips.

  4. I'm in the process of buying a P226 USPSA model for use in production. Last night I was looking at belt equipment as none of my revolver or single stack stuff will work. I know the P226 magazines are narrower than the STI & Glock mags, what mag holders work with the SIG mags? I use the Double Alpha Racer mag pouches in single stack, will the double stack Racers work with the P226?

  5. They are fragile. Mine was losing elevation, I determined it was being bent down to the rear. I don't know if it was happening in the soft case or in the race holster but after the second time I gave up.

    When I went back to a factory rear blade I found that the Wiegand had cracked at the bend where it attached to the factory sight body. I'm glad it didn't fail at a match.

  6. Shoot $2 to $3 k guns and worry about who is cheaper on a $4.50 part. More important, who supports the sport needs the support the most. We all have been there for sure. When you buy some replacements, get some extra for your range box as well as the hex wrenches to fit. They will come out, usually in a match

    Brownells if one of the best businesses in the firearms industry. They support us with match sponsorships, and they support the industry in ways you don't see.

    I've experienced firsthand the amount of support Frank and Pete Brownell provide to the Gunsmithing schools. They provide scholarships to students, and directly support the schools themselves when budgets fall short. When I was a student at Trinidad, these donations were from Frank and Pete directly, not thru the business. This is different than Midway who only donates money when cameras are present.

    There was a link here at Benos, hopefully still is, where you could redirect to Brownells and Brian would see a kickback. I use that URL every time I purchase from Brownells, hopefully Brian is setting a portion of what I spend as a gunsmith.

  7. I've been shooting a lot of single stack this year. Single action triggers make my finger retarded.

    I'm in the same boat as you when I shoot the round gun, I need to focus on the trigger when I pick up the revo for a match. Don't get down on yourself, it's normal.

    The trigger return is at least as important as the trigger pull. I find bill drills, 6 shots from the holster on a single target, to be very useful in concentrating on the trigger pull and return.

  8. Staging the trigger on a revolver can cause you to skip by a chamber if you move your finger forward a little when you stop. A PPC shooter recommended that to me, but I had to un-learn it when I started practical shooting.

    I find it best to pull straight thru. Your trigger pull needs to be ahead of your sight picture, I'm already pulling the trigger as I come down out of recoil.

    Releasing the trigger is as important as the pull. The trigger should swing back and forth as though it was a metronome, the same speed in both directions. You should be releasing the trigger as soon as the shoot breaks, with no pause at the rear.

    If you're not keeping the trigger moving and staying ahead of the sight picture, it's easy to find yourself snatching at the trigger. Before a course of fire, I tell myself to "roll the trigger". It really does feel like a rolling motion to me.

×
×
  • Create New...