PatJones
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Posts posted by PatJones
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The rule book is available here:
http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-rules.php
It reads:
"8.2.3 A course of fire must never require or allow a competitor to touch or
hold a handgun, loading device or ammunition after the “Standby”
command and before the “Start Signal” (except for unavoidable touch-
ing with the lower arms)."
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I suspect that notches peen worse for folks that don't pull the trigger smoothly. If you sit there slapping the trigger for hours on an empty gun it beats the notches worse than live fire. Recoil slows us down. If you smoothly roll the trigger dry fire doesn't seem to hurt much. If you keep the gun in constant motion, the cylinder has more time to spin slower than if you snatch at the trigger for each pull.
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Thanks for the offer. I already bought a set of double alphas. They fit perfectly with the medium spacers.
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Feel free to PM me with any questions.
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The flaming pig is basically the first 3 inches and first baffle of a suppressor. It's often used by entry teams in military and law enforcement. 13.7 inches is the barrel length that allows you to pin/weld the KX-3 to meet the 16 inch requirement, there's nothing magic about 13.7 inches.
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Nevermind, that was repealed last year: http://dailycaller.com/2014/05/06/colorado-bill-repealing-restrictions-on-rifle-and-shotgun-purchasessales-signed-into-law/
That said, if you're in Trinidad It's likely none of the local townies read about that.
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Gunsmithing is a second (third really) career for me. I was a finish carpenter/ski bum who ended up managing ski town condominiums.
There is no substitute for being in a classroom with your instructor. I went to school in Trinidad Colorado. Trinidad State Junior college offers a two year associates degree in gunsmithing.
I recommend you skip the AGI videos. The NRA gunsmithing programs are summer schools for people looking to get their feet wet. Find a school close to you here: https://gunsmithing.nra.org/find-a-school/
I took a week long intro to gunsmithing class and I was back as a full time student a year later. The summer classes are often specialty classes offered by leading gunsmiths in their fields. Bill Laughridge has been teaching a 1911 class at Trinidad the last few years. At the very least, a class makes for a really fun weeks vacation.
As far as the vise goes, I bought a used Wilton machinists vise on eBay for $175 shipped. The 4" bullet vise is the best for gunsmithing, mine's a 4.5 inch but in still looking for a 4".
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What school are you at? Trinidad? If you're in Colorado, state law only allows sales of long guns to residents of states that share a border with Colorado. As you know, federal law prevents sale of handguns to people outside their state of residence.
In my experience, it's often worth the trouble to get an in-state drivers licence as a gunsmithing student.
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You do not want vise jaws wider than 4". Any wider and they start to get wider than the parts of the gun you're trying to hold on to.
I'm a gunsmith and I live on my vise. We used to have a 6" vise at work and it drove me nuts. You don't likely need the vise to open as far as I do, so buy a 4" model if you can find it.
When you mount it on your bench, try to set the height so the top of the jaw is at the same height as the tip of your elbow. It's much easier to file flat at that height.
Look at the soft jaws from Brownells, part # 100-003-410. I built a set of aluminum jaws I really like from some aluminum angle iron I bought at the hardware store. For sight work on pistols, I line the aluminum jaws with business cards so I don't need to clean aluminum marks off the slide.
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I had a KX-3 on my last AR I built for myself. I work at an indoor range and I wanted something to deflect muzzle blast. The KX-3 is very effective at this, it directed everything downrange.
I did not experience any over gassing, and I didn't find the weight to be objectionable. I would put another on one of my rifles, I do not care for the blast of a shorter barrels indoors.
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Buy some pro grip. Apply it to the back of your strong hand so you can get a little more traction with your weak hand and shoot what you already have. You're all putting too much thought into this.
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The leaf spring in the K,L and N frame smiths can be tuned a little lighter than the coil spring in the Rugers. It's the nature of the way the springs store energy.
Many Rugers have a poorly fit hammer dog from the factory, this results in a weird "hump" in middle of the trigger pull. (That's the double action sear in S&W speak.) Properly fitting a new hammer dog and polishing the internal surfaces can make the Rugers feel really nice, but I've never been able to tune one as light.
If you have a S&W-trained finger, Rugers have a false reset where the sear has reset but the cylinder stop has not. It's more pronounced in some guns than others, but it locks up the gun until you get off the trigger and start the pull again.
I had a Ruger Security Six with a 3" barrel I really liked. The trigger tuned up great, but the grip angle felt more like a Colt single action so I sold it.
In general, the Smiths are "nicer" the Rugers are more durable. If I had to choose one revolver to grab before I disappeared into the mountains for the rest of my life, it would be a Ruger. I own Smiths because they're a bit more refined.
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2) Where should my offhand thumb be? I used to hold it lower but I had issues of it interfering with slide lock.
I don't see any need for the weak hand thumb to touch the gun. Grip tape on the frame is unnecessary, just let your thumb float next to the gun. Many of the malfunctions I see at my work are caused by customers touching the slide.
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Touching the slide with either thumb is asking for trouble. That said, I don't see how drag on the slide would cause it to turn around and go back for another cartridge. I'd like to see a close up picture of what the jam looks like before you clear it.
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13th. 2% behind Leatham. Well done boss.
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The bottom line is that I think that Limited minor is not competitive.... and so do the majority of others. Why should we, as a group of budget wise shooters dismiss that? It should be closer to a wash if one chooses to shoot limited major or minor with their respective advantages and disadvantages.... but it is not a wash. I think limited minor is punished too much. I think we could bring it closer to a wash with an increase in mag capacity for choosing to shoot minor. With the current rules in place it is no where near a wash. I believe it would add to the integrity of the sport to make Limited minor competitive and let the shooter choose which caliber to shoot. I do not believe we can perfectly make it a wash, but we can come a little closer with an increase in mag capacity closer to 26 or 27.
I didn't invent this problem. It existed long before I got involved in this sport. Maybe I am the first person to address it.
If you want to be "competitive" shooting minor, shoot revolver, single stack, production or carry optics.
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The 327s are different from the aluminum J frames in that there is a steel bushing on the breech face for the center pin of the cylinder. This steel bushing should prevent much of the wear experienced by the smaller airweights with high mileage.
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I'm 45 and starting to notice changes in my vision. I'm sure I could compensate by making changes to my waistline.
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I think there is a misconception, that you can hose away at the targets with major scoring. I started this game shooting minor, and made the same mistake when I started shooting major in single stack this spring.
You need to aim with the same care when shooting major as when you shoot minor. The difference is in distant or partial targets. On those you can place you shots into the middle of the available target and move on, this is the time savings.
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... And Carmoney puts on a great match. Wish I could be the this weekend.
Dean, that's pretty much what we're doing next weekend in Ankeny--10 stages of ICORE on Saturday and 10 stages of USPSA on Sunday!What would be nice would be Icore National on Sat the Uspsa National on Sunday at the same range.
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Wouldn't a spurless hammer be an easier way to go?
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Use the tool by hand. Metal cuts slowly that way.
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It is worth buying a moon-checker from TK customs. A slightly tweaked moonclip can bind things up too.
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To access my existing account from the new website I simply had to reset my password.
On the phone I was told to set up a new account with my existing email account, but this would not work. Resetting the password updated me to the new website.
Nose dive woes
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Does the gun suffer these failures with factory ammo? If not, I would suspect your handloads first.
Looking at the photo you posted, I can see where the sizing die appears to have left an un-sized ring at the base of the cartridge. An enlarged base on each cartridge in a magazine may prevent the follower from pushing up the front of the top cartridge.
If the pistol runs fine with factory ammunition, you might try sizing your cases with a push-thru die prior to loading.