wanttolearn

Hi, I sure would appreciate some thoughts on how to improve my experience with a new unmodified Glock 34. As a background, while I'm new to Glock I have some proficiency with numerous other pistol platforms and honestly am not generally troubled by trivialities. I know it sounds silly but i don't want to give up on the platform just yet. Here's my challenge, my trigger finger rubs rather significantly on the inner aspect of the trigger guard. While i can force/reposition my trigger finger to sit higher on the curve of the trigger it's not at all natural. In addition, my support hand index finger is getting beat up abutting the undersurface of the trigger guard as well, though this is of less concern. I've never experienced a similar challenges with either of my 1911s or Sig Sauer Pistols. Wondering if there is a different trigger or something i could try to rectify this. To add insult to injury the pistol ejects right back towards my head.

I've gotten rather good at fitting 1911 barrels....however i'm new to the Glock platform and have yet to fit a glock barrel. Would one find a gunsmith fit Bar-sto Barrel to yield even better accuracy as compared to the aforementioned options? thanks

I've had great luck with NP3 and also CCR's finish

thank you

thank you. may i ask, is your preference to use the M die and the FCD so that you don't overwork the case? As opposed to using the full length sizing die from Forster?

Hi, i already have the Forster .223 2 die set. I recently purchased a Dillon 650XL but haven't taken it out of the box yet. Can i use the Forster 2 die set on the Dillon 650XL? I use them on my single stage but sometimes when i take a class we burn through some 350-400 rounds and so hoped the perhaps i might be able to use them on the progressive. I noticed that the Dillon set consists of 3 Dies. If the Forster die set would work, how would I set up the Dillon. Thanks

perfect...thank you

thanks...very cool....they have a few models, must review it more closely, never worked with molle.. sounds great

that Park tool looks perfect....but i think it's no longer made. I'll run to home depot and see if they have something similar. Then i'll have to find the appropriate sockets/drivers

thanks for responding. the scope mount lists specific values to torque the base, want to do the right thing. i will look at the wrenches you mentioned.

So i finally have a rifle and a scope. I just ordered rings, they should be here soon.I guess i need a torque wrench? What does everyone use? Don't want garbage but might only ever mount 2 - 4 scopes with it (at least in the foreseeable future).ThanksAlso, which loctite (blue?).

thank you for posting these. it really helps.

interesting point thank you. would such a set up not be approved for competitions like USPSA and 3Gun?

wondering if anyone might recognize the make and model of this belt...it looks comfortable with padded sides if i'm envisioning it correctly, thank you

thank you for posting that....I'm working hard at improving

thanks....any preferred brands/models for the chest rig and for the dump pouch?

i think the class is going to be more focused on fundamentals... so applicable later on for both competition like 3 gun or for tactical. Honestly i think i'll only pursue local not very competitive competition...for us older folks, can't see running or jumping or climbing..... but i'd like to have the basics. I tried with mags in my cargo pants and that just wasn't working out all that well. I saw a lot of others wearing chest rigs and dump pouches and it looked much more efficient/comfortable.

Hi, hoping to participate in AR15 classes. Not sure what supporting equipment i should get. Cost / value is of course a real consideration for me. Any recommendations for equipment would sure be appreciated, particularly magazine dump pouch and mag pouches for 223/5.56.... chest rig? thanks

please let us know what Glock says, this issue seems to come up with some regularity

Since its the weekend i'd try the nail polish first and call the on Monday ( before spending any money on new pins etc...plus it gives Glock a record of the problem so they can't blame any subsequent problems from non stock parts on you). make sure the nail polish is very dry before putting it into the frame to eliminate any solvent issues

It sounds like it must be common because there are a lot of people who describe the same phenomenon. some say it can occur from mixing up the pins (metal uses metal pin, polymer uses polymer pin) some attribute it to manhandling or just plain old overuse with respect to fixing the problem: i've read others describing coating the pins with clear nail polish. probably the easiest to try first (well along with calling Glock) I've also read about commercially available oversized pins, a number of companies sell them like Glockstore, Zev, Taran's shop etc. I've also heard others Even others mention peening the pins. Personally i'd probably call Glock customer service (i'm told they're great). Please let us know how it works out.

i found this at another site and thought you might be interested, it's a nice little diagram of 1911 barrel nomenclature. M1911BarrelNomenclature.jpg

optimizing sights and trigger in addition to new springs are always good bets...tough to make specific suggestions without knowing what type of sights you have for example...some of their new ones have front fiberoptic sights already. you might be great with just new springs. tell us more, perhaps a photo

just trying to think this through so the only new parts are the sear, hammer and disconnector, sear spring and mainspring. probably not a mainspring problem, unlikely that the sear spring is interfering as it's too short to hit the thumb safety since you demonstrate the problem with no slide, fwe can probably eliminate the role of the disconnector you feel confident that the hammer strut is not interfering with the grip safety channel and you also haven't changed the grip safety and msh..so their relationship should not have changed. would check to see if the width of the new sear is the same as the old...any chance its rubbing on either the thumb safety strut (or less likely certainly the grip safety). so next....and you probably checked this already.... but with only the sear, complete msh, sear spring in the frame..... will the thumb safety fit all the way in and cycle appropriately? now add the hammer and strut to above mix...does the thumb safety still fit/function/rotate appropriately?