TerryYu

Well of course, those POS STIs are like all other finicky "exotic" designs that require lubrication and cleaning, you know, like those "2011s" and the communist Cee-Zees. He's selling to the consumer, a real man. Someone who buys a gun, shoots 50 rounds of WWB out of it, hits the target at least 25 times, and puts it in his bedroom closet, content to know that he'll be headshotting crooks at 25 yards with it. However, since everyone else at the water cooler can already do that, he will tell his friends about how he shoots flying squirrels with one hand at 75 yards, choking out a grizzly with the other while simutaneously kicking the winning field goal at the State championships; fulfilling the former quarterback's lifelong wish as he lays paralyzed in the hospital from a grizzly bear attack. You're just one of those wacko "competitive shooters". To him you're just a big safety hazard running around "ISPCing" targets at that "gun club", making dangerous homemade bullets that you load 37 at a time in your oversized clip mags which are banned by the Geneva Convention don'tcha know, and having the gall to tell Granny Sue that a $1500 .44 magnum that he was going to make a handsome profit on is just not what she needs to visit her grandson on the other side of the tracks for Bible Study.

I was dry firing today and noticed that I was most consistent reloading with the gun held way high, with the bottom of the grip about even with my nose. This looks pretty silly when reviewing the tape so I was wondering how high other people hold their guns on reload as I see a lot of youtube videos of people reloading almost at the chest and they are pretty good (much better than me!)

So I stumbled upon this on gunsamerica window shopping. http://www.gunsamerica.com/931038859/Guns/Pistols/CZ/CZ_75_9mm_Czech_Police_Nickel_Blue_1988_w_1_High_Capacity_15_Shot_Magazine_CZ75_CZ_model_75_Ceska_Zbrojovka_Double_Action_A.htm TLDR summary: ex police circa 1988 old beat up cz for a low price. Let's assume I bought one of these and wanted to recondition it to play in production class. Would it be possible to turn that into something that performs like a poor man's shadow sp01 for less money then it would cost to just outright buy a shadow sp01? Let's assume that I can do most of the parts swapping work myself and I would only have to sent it away for refinishing and a modern sight cut. Worth it to give an old gun a chance or just bite the bullet and buy the latest and greatest?

Now I'm giving myself excuses to load so I can shoot more so I can load more so I can shoot more so I can load more......

That's good to know. I was in a similar situation where I kept missing club classifiers and eventually would up driving 100 miles to get to one.

I just got back from the pawn shop and heard this gem. Clerk: ok. I want you to aim at a spot on the wall and close your eyes. Lady: ok Teacups a tiny bersa 380 and points it at the wall. Closes her eyes for 2 seconds and reopened them. Clerk: did your sights move? That's called natural point of aim. Lady: yes. It moved down and to the left. Clerk: ok. That means the gun is too heavy for you. Lady: oh my, is this the smallest gun you got? About this time I walked away when they started talking about how the LCP would be more "manageable" for her since it was smaller and had a laser.

Let it go... without the proper tools (bullet puller) you're setting yourself up for a lot of trouble for very little gain. At best you'll scuff up the bullet with pliers or dent your brass, at worst you wind up having the whole thing detonate in your face. Not worth it to save 50 cents, imo. Or if you have a double action/external hammer type gun you can just repeatedly drop the hammer on them if they are only slightly out of normal. The hammer hits will seat the primer and you'll have a bang eventually. Don't do this if they are so far out of the primer pocket that you're afraid of a slamfire.

NO! You have a fully assembled bullet. One screwup with seating force and that's all it will take to set off the round. Either buy a bullet puller or put it in the bad ammo tin. Don't take the risk to recover 15 cents.

You can also minimize crooked primers by tapping the primer slide with your finger after hearing the click when your brass passes the case sensor nub on the upstroke. This helps center the primer in the ram. Crooked primers are usually caused by the primer not completely sliding into place via gravity. Small primers suffer from this a lot. Large primers seem to have an easier time sliding down the chute.

If you keep tapping the primer chute the ones stuck in the top will fall back down. Or you can just pull the chute apart as it splits down the middle and they'll all fall out. That's probably why lee recommends cci primers only as their presses are good at mangling primers.

I use a paper clip and a Tupperware bowl. I stick the paper clip in the bottom and flick it up. The primers fly out the top and are caught by the bowl. The one or two that are at the bottom you can push into the primer ram and the shellplate will rotate them off when you cycle the press.

In regard to the flare, do you mean there's a bulge that you see through the case due to the bullet bulging out the brass? If so, there's a simple go/no go test to determine if that would be a problem. Take the barrel out of your gun and drop the loaded bullet in. It should fall in easily with no resistance and should fall out when you flip it over. If it fits in your barrel fine, don't worry about it. If you don't like the way that looks, buy a lee factory crimp die and it will squeeze the bullet down a thousandth or so and remove the bulge. If it chambers fine, it's not a problem. I'm not sure what you mean about a cocked primer though.

Selling the old one for 50 bucks this weekend!

I love this thing! After rigging up my lee case feeder to mount on my reloading table I am cranking out 100 rounds every 10 minutes or so and I'm moving slowly! Its been 100% right out of the box and I'm making excuses to shoot more just so I can load more. I should have bought this thing a long time ago.

Yep. But for pistol caliber I don't need gigantic powder capacity. That and they are 40 bucks as opposed to 75

I might get a 550 case feeder. Advancing the shellplate by hand wouldn't slow me down much if my right doesn't have to leave the lever.

I was leaning in that direction as I am hard pressed to get 3 MOA with a rifle unsupported at 100 yards.

Here it is! Setup for .38 spl Setup for 9mm with a Lee (gasp!) autodisk powder measure I'm using the Lee autodisk for 9mm because I only have one Dillon measure and frankly found it a bit of a pain to get dialed in when I was setting up .38spl. As far as Lee goes, their autodisk works great and 20 seconds of drilling adapted it to take the Dillon failsafe rod without a hitch. Cranked out about 200 rounds today for testing, having a fourth die is great because I can finally use the Lee factory crimp die and get nice looking (and chambering) rounds. 0 problems with the primer feed system, much better (and more expensive) design than the Lee presses. Griz is right though, my raw cycle speed is less than my old press because of the extra shell plate operation and no casefeeder/bulletfeeder. However my average rate is going up because I don't have to pull the entire thing apart every couple hundred rounds to figure out the latest problem. Overall, I'm glad I bought this thing and look forward to loading thousands more in the future.

I was at the flea market this morning and saw one of the stands had a brand new M9 slide for sale. I asked the seller where he got it and he started to tell me some war stories about how he was a 20 year marine veteran and what he saw in Iraq/Afghanistan. He told me his opinion on the Beretta (crap and terrible and slide breaks every 20k rounds etc) and that to be a good shot I shouldn't worry about those 25 yard shots with my handgun because they take no skill and I should shoot at 100 yards. Then he tells me that he shoots clay pigeons at 100 yards with his Taurus PT92, heavily implying that he nails them every time. Here's my question. Is this even possible? I have tried my Beretta at 25 yards and it's about a 3-5 inch group offhand for me. I know that the best 1911s "only" come with a 1 inch @ 50 yard guarantee. Is it even plausible that someone can hit a 3 inch clay pigeon at 100 yards consistently with a handgun shooting standard 9mm ball or is he blowing smoke? It seems pretty hard to believe but I didn't want to throw the BS flag without knowing for sure. I have tried shooting my 1911 at 100 yards, I can probably hit a man sized target 50% of the time that far, but nothing near as small as a clay pigeon.

I made a couple of hilariously belled .38 spl setting up the dies but that's it so far

Christmas has arrived! I almost lost faith but at 8pm the FedEx guy showed up and dropped it off. Now to mount it...

There's a section in the IDPA rulebook called Shooter's Responsibilities that states: 7. Obtain a valid classification and maintain it by shooting the classifier at least once every twelve (12) months (except master class shooters).

IDPA Shooter Responsibility #7 Obtain a valid classification and maintain it by shooting the classifier at least once every twelve (12) months (except master class shooters). It's even in the rulebook! If you're wrecking the sharpshooter class in your club shoots, it's time to class up to give everyone else a chance to shine. Do you want to be big fish in a little pond, or do you want to move over to a bigger pond and grow even bigger?

Let me give you Johns shipping address.... I hope I dont come off as hard to please but I will have some expectation of increased performance from something that costs 4x more than what I'm currently using.

See that's the thing, the Lee works very quickly when it works. Last night I sat down to load 300rounds for idpa this Saturday and it took about 1.5 hours. When we were running fine, I was loading 100 rounds in about 15 minutes without a case or bulletfeeder. However then the thiilng gave metrouble with the primer drop and the primer food and it took 30 minutes to troubleshoot. I am getting to the point where my ammo can't be experimental and when I sit down to load I need to reasonably expect to load x many rounds per hour, not between 0 and 500 per hour depending on the whim of the press.