TerryYu

I've bought 50 rounds of walmart 38 spl and I will probably go hit up the range tomorrow and see if it blows my hand off. After shooting a couple of ICOREs, I may invest in a .38spl die set so I don't have to buy factory ammo.

I'd say that if you can shoot the stock trigger well, get consistent hits in the A zone at 20 yards, and feel like you could do better with a lighter trigger, that's a good time. A harder/stackier trigger is a good way to learn proper trigger control and isolating your trigger finger. The way I think about it is, if you can shoot a 7 pound trigger, you can shoot a 2 pound trigger. Also if your gun every craps out and you borrow one, you'll know that you can still shoot the bone stock loaner gun well.

What's the average cost to get it refinished? I've seen some really good refinishes and some truly terrible ones but I thought that all refinishes destroy the value of the gun.

Shot the IDPA classifier this weekend. Things I've noticed. Turn and draw needs work. Support hand is free floating. Need different sights on my glock. Currently I'm running TruGlo TFOs and while they are great sights for up close and very fast on the pickup, the rear notch is too small and the front sight is too big. At 20+ yards the front sight feels like a 2x4. Currently in the market for a different sight solution. Perhaps Sevigny Comps or something that is Novak rear and a very thin front fiber. Bought a timer. Going to dry fire like mad now that my weaknesses were shown to me in no unclear terms.

My theory is that it was scratched or sanded off, although the barrel isn't rough, it's smooth.

Well it's at home and I was quite wrong about the gun. It's not a model 10, it's actually a M&P Model of 1905 4th change with a 6" barrel. Serial number is 486,xxx which makes it ~1925 manufacture. Took it home for $200 and got them to throw in three speedloaders. Here's some pics Very professional packaging! They gave it to me in a chicken bag, so it's forever going to be my fried chicken gun. This is the finish wear I was talking about. Other side of the barrel. After I got it home I played with the action even more. It seems very tight and aside from a good oiling it doesn't seem like it needs any more work to get it serviceable. Can anyone tell me if I got a good deal? I can take more pictures of various parts of the gun if needed.

Well what I'm saying is if you're new to reloading please tell us what you're using to load (powder, amount, bullet, length). There aren't any "secret" recipes when you're loading for common handgun calibers. I would hate it if you damaged your gun or hurt yourself doing something we could have identified as dangerous.

Well. It's in my hands. Passed all the function tests for a revolver. Walked out the door with it and 3 speedloaders for $200 + tax Pics after I get home. I now must appease the lady by taking her shopping for graciously allowing me to spend my money.

Yes, they are. However this one has a ton more finish damage than the ones selling online as well as being much older. I'm going back to the pawn shop today and if it's there, it's mine. After I test the clockwork again just to make sure I'm not missing something.

You shouldn't be keeping secrets...

That's some fast shooting!

I've been shooting USPSA and IDPA for about a year now and it's time to start a range log to keep myself honest. I've started a youtube channel with my video uploads http://www.youtube.com/user/spotmaxdog1?feature=mhee Over the next year I plan on working on the following: Accuracy - The IDPA classifier I shot today made it painfully obvious that I need to learn how to shoot more accuractely. I was close to finishing as Expert in SSP but wound up dropping FIFTY points on the third string due to accuracy. Functioning under stress - When I'm at the range my pulse is about 75 and I can easily shoot to a 20 yard target. When I'm on the clock my pulse is over 100 (I wear a heartrate monitoring watch) and my sights shake like crazy, making my long range accuracy crap. Pistol manipulation - Need to get that "snap" in my draws and reloads Speed - Last on my list. I can speed shoot all day long and get Cs and Ds. I need to develop my front sight focus so I can see As instead. As I go practice and compete more, I will post more. Until then, safe shooting.

The shop called me back and said they ran the serial number and it actually corresponds to a 1930's manufacture (number is in the 40,000s). Does that factor into the equation?

Yes, it looked like it lived life in a holster. Especially since the wear looks like it's 100% from someone who holstered up on his right side and walked around, causing the leather holster to rub on the left side of the barrel. I'm going to let it bake for a couple of days. If it's still at the shop Tuesday I will pick it up. Hopefully I can talk them down another $10, or someone else will buy it and I don't have to add to my collection

Noticed some oil on my dress shirt :/ Just got my CED7000 in the mail today and also shot the IDPA classifier. Here's a video of the actual turn and shoot with a timer. I think I did a bit better with time pressure but I went so many points down on the long range shoot I dropped my total time from just scratching at expert to the middle of sharpshooter. I need to work on my long distance accuracy under stress, my sights were shaking so much my group size was about the same as the entire target! https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/36520_10100832692649210_15913151_54963016_1461646392_n.jpg

Miranda, I am not 100% sure what you mean. I'm not sure if I can do better for $190. Certainly couldn't find one much cheaper than that, the question to me is are its faults worth the $80 discount.

I'm debating if I want to buy a S&W I saw today at the local pawn shop. It's a S&W Model 10 in 38spl, 4 inch pencil barrel, seems like it was made in the 60's. They're asking $190 for it. It has significant finish wear, but no rust. There's about an inch or so of bluing that is worn off the left side of the gun near the muzzle and is a bit dirty but there it doesn't seem like there's any breech wear, the barrel is shiny with good rifling, and the clockwork seems tight. Trigger pull feels good, clicks like a good smith should. I believe they priced it as poor shape due to the bluing coming off. Do you think it's worth the $190? Internet is selling them for $260 all day long at about 70-80% finish wear. I would be using it primarily as a intro to ICORE gun but I want to be able to get my money out of it if I wind up not liking ICORE. I don't intend on putting a lot of money into it, just taking it apart, detail clean and polish, and perhaps touching up the bluing with cold blue. Edit: It wasn't a Model 10. It was a Model of 1905 4th Change

I've shot a couple hundred missouries with clays and I've found them to be a bit inaccurate. I'm going to try bullseye powder and see if my groups tighten up.

Actually, CED7000 en route!

What model of timer do you recommend?

Yeah. I just got home from work and saw your response and wanted to throw something up on the web. I'll try to work on that snap. I'm not a very snappy person, ha. Currently trying to snap makes me tense up and messes up my draw, but I'll keep working on relaxing while moving fast. Also the 1911 is heavy after a billon draws but that's me whining.

Here's a short video of draws and turn and draws I put together. My feet are visible this time.

Thanks for the replies. Here is video showing the feet. I feel like my draw is decent, but incredibly slow. I can move the gun faster than what is in the video, as I am trying hard to focus on bringing my support hand high, but I start to slop.

Can someone please critique my draw and reload technique? I am currently doing dry fire practice for an IDPA classifier match coming up next weekend and would like to button down my technique a bit. I would really love to make the jump from novice to sharpshooter class

How hot is hot?