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No the slide didn't get me...it was weird in that it didn't really fire off a full shot. Didn't even eject the case.

Oh hey Randy! Hope you shot well...and I hope I wasn't a distraction with that DQ. I just gotta change the way I drop the hammer is all - next time we shoot together I'll make it through both guns without a DQ :-)

If the range officer notices it isn't fully decocked, it wouldn't be okay. You'd be shooting in the Limited division instead of Production if you did that...I think?

I try to control it all the way down...it slipped on me today. Caught me off guard with how heavy it dropped given the change in hammer spring. (I posted both places because getting DQ'ed is about the worst thing that could happen at a match.)

I've got an 85 combat that I've been shooting in USPSA Production for about 3 months now. I've manually decocked the hammer hundreds and hundreds of times with no issue. Gun *had* an 11.5# hammer spring in it. Gun also has an extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin spring. I was never comfortable with the idea that I HAD to use Federal Small Pistol primers, and Federal primers are scarce right now around here, so this week I put the 13# hammer spring back in the gun. Didn't shoot it with the 13# spring in it before today's match. FIRST stage I decocked as normal and the gun went off - DQ. (I had the gun pointed straight downrange into the berm, so there was no danger to anyone as far as I could tell...but it was a DQ nonetheless.) The way I was lowering the hammer before must've been fine with the 11.5# spring, but not with the 13# spring (there really is a big difference, as noticed with the difference in the DA pull.) I went to the gun range and practiced lowering the hammer - definitely, there's less room for error with the 13# spring. I've gone back and read a bunch of threads here and on Enos about lowering that hammer manually. I think I can do it without a problem if I do it a little differently than I was doing it before (rather than simply pinching the hammer, I'll pinch it with a third finger in between the hammer and firing pin and slip the third finger out as the hammer lowers.) Question I have is whether you guys are using the extended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring AND the 13# hammer spring? I'm a little spooked that the little bit of free travel that hammer had set the gun off...wondering if maybe the 13# spring AND extended firing pin/spring makes it more dangerous than it needs to be. Thanks for any input you might have! I have never done anything unsafe at a match and, even though this probably doesn't put anyone in danger, it's a DQ for a reason and I don't want to repeat it (and I don't want to go to shooting a plastic gun.)

Safariland 014 arrived today. It'll work on this Match w/rail with some adjustment (no modifications...just adjusting it using the adjusting points built into the holster.) The entire trigger guard isn't covered by the holster but the part of the inside of the trigger guard that you can see is behind the trigger and you can't even get a finger in there. Once tightened down (using the tension adjuster hand screw) and locked (using the locking lever) the gun isn't going anywhere. Unlocked and with the tension adjuster loosened the gun will only come out if lifted straight up out of the holster. Not sure if I'd trust running with this in the unlocked position and the locking lever has to be deliberately hit to unlock the gun...but I can't recall any stages where I've had to run with the gun holstered, so that may never be an issue. Probably would take some time to become faster on the draw with this Safariland vs. a BladeTech or the DAA PDR (SP01 model.) That's probably going to have to do with how I've got the holster setup (you can adjust it infinitely.) Meanwhile, the DAA PDR SP01 model is breaking in to where 95% of the time I've got no issue pulling the gun from it. When I do have an issue with it it's because I didn't pull straight up out of the holster. But when I don't pull straight up out of the holster with the Safariland the gun doesn't come right out, either...so in that regard, both holsters are the same.

I'm more than satisfied with everything I've purchased through Henning, and he's been extremely helpful in getting my Tanfoglio setup to shoot Limited.

I was going to order a DAA RaceMaster made for the flat trigger guard Tanfoglios...and if that didn't work, I was going to try the insert for the SP01. Everyone that has a Racemaster that I know really thought that would work because of the tension adjustment... Last night I stumbled upon the Safariland 014, which I understand is their latest (early 2012) open competition holster. The product page on Safariland's website is here: http://safariland.com/DutyGear/product.aspx?pid=014 Scroll down from the picture to the area where they show what guns the holster is supposed to work with - you'll see "EAA" with models listed as being "Witness, Witness Compensator, Witness Gold Team, Witness Limited." Witness MATCH isn't explicitly listed, but I have a regular Witness and it seems to me as though the Match's trigger guard is the same as the regular, steel Witness. Then if you do a google search for "Witness Compensator" you'll find some pictures of Witnesses with trigger guards that are rounded like the Match's. So I've ordered one and hopefully it'll be here by the end of the week. $168.00 from Midsouthshootersupply.com. They only showed the black one in stock on their website...that's good because I didn't want a red one. I'll of course report back as soon as I try it...I'll return it immediately if it doesn't work. Having said all of the above, the DAA PDR holster for the SP01 seems like it works better everytime I work with it. As I said earlier in this thread, the fit is great...it's just that the serration on the slide of the Match wants to grab onto the suede lining which makes it so the gun basically can't come out. I'm not good enough to pull straight up 100% of the time, and I don't want that in my head at the line, which is why I'm still looking for options. I'm going to keep working this PDR holster, though - definitely using it for my CZ 85 Combat going forward, as the gun comes right out FAST for a Production holster. One last thing - I emailed DAA and asked if they could custom make a Racemaster insert for the Match...they said they'd need the gun in their shop and they do not have one. I imagine sending them my gun is either impossible or next to it. They said there is no demand for products for the Match.

Yeah I may end up ordering from Blade Tech before it's all said and done. I did run the DAA PDR holster for the SP01 yesterday in the Limited division. It worked fine, but I had to take it easy on the first inch of the draw otherwise I wouldn't have been confident that I was going to not pull the holster up with the gun. For my skill level, this holster is probably more than fine for the railed Match. What I really want to do is fit up an open/race holster to this gun since that's what everyone around here in the Limited division is using. *Probably* going to order the DAA RaceMaster for the squared trigger guard Tanfoglio's and see how that works (before and after modification.)

Got the DAA PDR holster for the SP01 today. The gun fits and it's secure. Problem is the gun doesn't always want to come out of the holster smoothly - sometimes it's like it's stuck to the lining of the holster. That could just be how the suede lining is until it gets broken in - DAA's website says that it won't release as smoothly as it will once worn in and reviews of the holster say that they had to used oil to make it work. Also could be because it isn't made for this gun. I'll spray it down with silicon spray and try to break it in tomorrow and over the weekend. This should work. If it doesn't end up working out, I'm going to try the BladeTech Speed Rig holster for the SP01.

I do know that Blade-Tech makes a holster for the Match with the rail and that Henning's sells them, but he is out of stock and he's not sure when Blade-Tech will get him new stock. When I look at Blade-Tech's website I see "5 week lead time" up at the top...if I could get my hands on a Blade-Tech, that's what I'd use and that'd be the end of that...as it is, I think there's going to be a wait of indeterminable time and this gun is like the neglected step child of the pistol world while getting great reviews from everyone that has shot one. I don't know what people have tried and what they haven't tried. In my search of the internet, I found mention of folks using WSM II open holsters (after modifying them - I'm a little bit afraid of that,) a Blackhawk Serpa for the Sig 229, the Bladetech...someone mentioned the itac from a 24/7 OSS (definitely doesn't work - I have one and tried it)...I'm going to try some different things that I haven't found to be ruled out and post the results here. - Tried a Blade-Tech DOH for a Glock 34 (my backup Production gun) - while clearly not intended for the Match, after loosening the screws to open the holster up a little bit, the holster holds the gun snugly (it won't fall out unless I shake it upside down) and the gun comes out smoothly on a draw (it comes out easier than it goes in.) I don't know that I'd buy a Glock 34 Blade-Tech DOH for the purpose of using it with the Match, but it'll work. Might cause some funny wear marks on the pistol, though, since it isn't made for the pistol. On Thursday a DAA PDF holster made for the SP01 is going to arrive and I'll post the result. (I've got other use for it if it doesn't work for the Match.)

I'm prepared to modify a WSM II holster for use with my EAA Match with rail...but then I just got to thinking, would any of the holsters that are made for the CZ SP01 work with the EAA Match with rail? Has anyone ever tried it? I have a CZ 85 Combat that I shoot in Production...I held it up to the Match and, other than the trigger guard being flat in front of the 85 combat, seems like everything that has to go into a holster is pretty much the same (save for the fact that my 85 combat doesn't have a rail like the SP01 has.) I'm thinking of ordering a DAA PDR holster made for the CZ SP01 and seeing if it works before I go the WSM II route...it's got a tension adjusting knob to where, I'm thinking, if the Match doesn't fit perfectly, I may be able to just loosen it up before each run then tighten it back up when I'm done so I can paste, keep score, and reset steel without worrying about my gun landing on the ground.

Not sure if I'm going to be happier with these Dillon dies than I am with my Lee dies in other calibers or not... The Dillon dies have the ability to be taken apart without removing the die from the toolhead, which would come in handy for cleaning (I load primarily lead bullets.) On the other hand, the Dillon dies cost $80 with the powder die (to Lee's $45) and the Lee set comes with their "factory crimp die," which I *think* is better for final case resizing than the Dillon crimp die (which I *think* literally just crimps the case neck to the bullet rather than resize the whole case.) As I don't like to sit there and chamber check my rounds, this might end up being a problem. Guess I'll chamber check for a while until I get comfortable that I'm not having issues...

To bring this thread full circle - I followed the recommendations here to radius the tip of the decapping pin (which was also what Dillon recommended via email.) I ended up using a file to radius the end of the pin - took me two tries: first one I radiused it at a 45 degree angle and that didn't help...second time I radiused it at much more than a 45 degree angle, which appears to have worked.

Thank you! I'll try that tomorrow.

I've got a Dillon 550B...I use Lee dies for 9mm and .45acp. I have a .40 gun and wanted to start reloading for it a little bit so I bought some .40 dies - got Dillon dies. There's alot of things that are awesome about these dies - like the fact that you can take the insides out of them without removing them from the toolhead. But the problem I'm having is that the depriming die isn't always depriming...there's a spring mechanism inside of the die, and I hear snap (which I understand is normal,) but 30 out of 200 upstrokes of the ram, the spent primer didn't come out of the brass. Anybody have the same issue? Am I doing something wrong/is there a way to fix this?

In the thread on open Glocks, everybody has either a Bobby Carver or SJC build. Anybody running the Jager kit? And being competitive with it in USPSA matches (against STI's and other open guns?) Thanks!

Thank you for the reply and the link. This tells me that I need to pay more attention to perfect technique right now as opposed to chasing a par timer in dry fire drills. I guess the optimal thing to do would be to chase the timer a little bit while keeping perfect technique - I'll do that but when I feel my technique get out of whack (and when the sights aren't lined up at presentation 9/10 times) I'll dial it back and get back to working my technique to where the sights line up without manipulation after presentation.

Experienced shooters - when you point your gun at a target (whether from a draw, reload, transition, or from the high ready,) how often are your sights aligned perfectly BEFORE you do any 'clean up' or adjustment? I see the better shooters at the matches I go to look like the instant their gun is pointed at a target a shot goes off (on the typical length targets we see in matches out here, which is anywhere from 5-12 yards)...and I have to imagine that the reason they can do this is that their technique is setting them up to where they're just confirming their sight picture before letting the shot go (as opposed to having to make an adjustment to get the sights in alignment, confirming, then letting the shot go.) With me, if I go on a run and I'm constantly having to clean up my sight picture, I lose confidence, get sort of out of timing, and it's not going to be a good run. I don't know if I've just got to learn how to adjust my sight picture (with my wrists) or if I've got to work on getting the technique closer to perfect to where the sights are in alignment nearly all of the time...makes a difference on what I focus on in my practice.

Wow...thank you so much for that post. Unless I find a used CZ TS at a good price, I think I'm going to go ahead and try a Witness Match .40 for Limited (now that I know the accessories are available to make it work.) Based on your example above, looks like it'd be about $1K to be all setup for limited...and I'm pretty sure I'll love the trigger because I love the one in my Witness Steel (it's just real heavy because I haven't put any lightend springs in it...it's a house protection gun.) Thanks again.

I've got a Witness Steel in .40 and it's a great gun...and all accounts that I've read are that the Match is a great gun. But as to using it in the Limited division - are 21 round mags, magwells, and trigger parts available for these to set them up for the Limited division? I looked into this a few months back, as I would GLADLY take a Match into Limited competition, but I think everyone was saying that everything to set it up for the limited division would have to be custom which would put the total cost up over the Elite Limited pistol... What have you done for mags and magwell to make it competitive in the Limited division?

My eye focus isn't as fast as my ability to physically move a gun right now. I'm training with an instructor and he's saying stuff to me like "it doesn't take you any longer to see what you need to see"...and it's kinda frustrating because for me to "see what I need to see" I HAVE TO slow down. For example, on my draw I work to get the gun to eye level diagonally from my holster and then have about a six inch extension to the target. I'm being told that during that six inch extension I should be "cleaning up" my sight picture so that at full extension I've got adequate sight picture. I'm being told that from the holster to eye level should be the same speed no matter the difficulty of the target, and it's the extension/cleaning up where I'd slow down to get a better sight picture on a difficult target. The problem for me is that if I get that gun up to eye level as fast as I possibly can, my eyes can't focus on the front sight fast enough to see the front sight before I'm fully extended (let alone early enough to do any clean up during the extension.) And it's kinda the same thing with my transitions - I can physically move the gun fast, but when it gets there, if I'm going to confirm sight picture/clean it up as necessary, there's a hesitation as my eyes go from the target I've swung to back to the front sight. Have you better shooters experienced this (i.e., is this natural for a newer shooter?) Did you do anything specific to improve your ability to have your eyes focus from target to front sight, or did it just naturally improve through dry/live fire practice? If you've experienced significant improvement through practice, was it fleeting (and did it require a ton of dry/live fire practice in order to keep it "in tune?") I don't want to be the guy that just runs a course hosing and hoping that the index of my body puts shots on target...if there is improvement to be had in my speed of eye focus-ability (crappy wording,) I don't want to stunt my progress by taking a shortcut (shooting faster than I can see and maybe never developing the ability to see quickly.) Thanks!

Is that legal to do in the Production division of USPSA?

I've got Blade Tech dropped offset holsters for all of my competition guns...the "pointing in" of the gun toward my leg does not make sense to me - feels like, at the start of the draw, the gun is pointed left of the target and I have to correct it back to the middle. Seems like if it were hanging straight down it'd be more lined up to the target from the moment I start to lift it from the holster. However, I'm a newer shooter and there's alot that I don't know. Does anybody know what the logic is behind having the gun pointed inward at the leg as opposed to hanging straight down?

Seems to me that when I have my weak hand thumb on the gun I get the muzzle moving to the right - and it doesn't always return to the right spot...take it off and grip harder with the fingers of my weak hand and it tracks up and down and gets back to where it needs to be quickly.