JC49ae

+1 Good read "There are a lot of nice people in this country. A whole helluva lot of them, like it or not, own AR-15s. If we can’t have at least, a conversation with them, sit down, break bread— about where we are going and how we are going to get there, there is no hope at all." I'd prefer that it's not an us vs. them mentality as he states "a conversation with them". Unfortunately that's the mindset of the people involved in gun debates. Our "great" political leaders also set the tone for their constituents, which is a problem as most if them can't think for themselves.

I like how whenever I ask the dumbest of questions I get an honest answer with out being talked down to. I've only been a forum member for a short time here, and I've gained a load of knowledge. Thanks to all you guys here who answer questions.

...while using a Dillon Powder measure? I've read here that Varget is a great powder, but doesn't measure well out of the Dillon powder measure. Not to mention most, if not everyone is sold out of this powder as well as others. What's the best powder that'll still flow well through a Dillon?

I'll be loading off of a Dillon 650 or 550. I've never used a die with bushings so I'm not sure that's the route I should go.

I was wondering if any of you guys could send me links of aftermarket parts distributors for the EAA/Tanfoglios. I'm new to these pistols and don't know where to start. I'd be interested in triggers, mags, barrels, etc. Thanks for any help.

What ammo/load recipe are you using?

Update: I loaded 100 rounds and had a large failure rate of rounds that wouldn't pass the KKM barrel chamber test (20/100 wouldn't go into the KKM bbl...they would hang up on the case mouth! Leaving about 1/32nd of the case exposed). My set up is: Stage 1 EGW U die Dillon powder bell Powder check Redding pro series seater Redding pro series taper crimp I loaded mixed brass with bayou 180's so I didn't think I should use my lee FCD. ALL 100 rounds passed 1) dillon chamber gauge 2) H&K USP bbl plunk test. When I dropped the 100 rounds in backwards into the KKM bbl, they all passed, which lead me to find that the mouth of the case was to big at some point. I decided I'd run the 20 failures on the crimp stage again to knock more of the mouth down (0.422") and I ended up running the crimp die all the way down to the shell plate trying to size the whole case, which didn't fix the problem. I fixed the 20 rounds by pulling them down and running them through the GRx die. For some odd reason the redding taper crimp die doesn't really taper very far. I could run my whole case as far as I wanted and the crimp never increased. I thought I might be able to over crimp the rounds and crush the lead, but that never happened. Maybe I have a 10mm only taper crimp die that wont work on 40's since I can't get it to crimp far enough on those few rounds?

I found these bins that appear to be similar in size and various colors to the Dillon Bins ($1 shipping at McFeely's): http://www.mcfeelys....quot-x-7-38quot They appear to be the same dimensions, and appear to be made buy quantum storage: http://www.quantumst...k-and-hang/bins Quantum storage shows availability of clear window fronts for their bins, except for the size similar to the 6" Dillon bins. DANG! Anyone else ordered those bins from McFeely's?

Well I decided to go with the GRx die. Too bad I only have a lee hand press as my single stage to run the cases with. I'll start taking steroids now so I'm strong enough to push the cases through.

I'm wondering if leaving rounds that have one shot or dillon case lube left on them will eventually have the lube contaminate the primer or a portion of the powder. I just read an old 3 page thread here about saturating rounds with lube...those rounds were unreliable and inconsistent. Well how's about a little bit of lube left in/on the case of a loaded round indefinitely? I've got some 9mm rounds that I loaded with one shot a few years ago which I think will be good to go. Anyone got rounds that have been sitting 5-10+ years that have lube left on them? Are they reliable rounds?

Armslist has some from time to time.

Anyone using the pro series sizing dies for glocked brass and getting the loaded rounds to pass chamber gauge tests? I've got a dillon gauge and a KKM barrel for the testing. I figured I'd ask before I try. I've got a bunch of 40 brass that's all glock fired and I only have the pro series die. It's not a problem yet, since I haven't tried running any 40 yet. If its a problem I'll try a u die or the pass through die (which I don't have).

http://www.brianenos...opic=86570&st=0 post #166 has the order info. You'll need to bend the ejector wire down (see photos of where to bend) to get the wire close to flush with the shellplate once the 2 washers and bearing are installed. If you choose to use the 2 bronze washers method above (available at ACE hardware in the washer bins labeled "thrust washers") you will not have to mod the ejector wire.

http://www.mcmaster.com/# You need 1 thrust bearing, part # - 5909K31 You need 2 washers, part # - 5909K44

I once read a thread where a member installed the casefeed post from an SL900 on their 650. I did a few searches and could not find the thread. Does anyone remember where that thread is? Thanks

Haven't had any problems with any of mine and don't see how having the wire further from the shell plate, even though there is not much difference at the OD of the shell plate, would lock it up. In any case here is another place where you can get all sorts of thrust bearings and the above sintered bronze washers. http://qbcbearings.c...her_SL_SB_I.htm Thanks for the link above for the bronze washers. I was running the double washer and bearing setup, which worked great for anything larger than 9mm. Once I switched to the 9mm and smaller cases, the shellplate would lock up as the 9mm cases would sort of tip over under the ejector wire while still in the shell plate. I tried tweaking the wire and screwed it up enough to where it wouldn't stay locked in place. Now I'm onto the the 0.75" OD thrust washers.

What is the "primer transfer bar" on the Dillon 650? Is it part #13662 primer indexing arm or something different? Thanks.

Might be sizing some Glocked brass with the U die. Anyone done this with the 10mm cases? Have you had problems with bullets that won't seat straight and pass a chamber check test?

Just picked up a few of these bullets and need a good starting point for my loads. I'll be using a the STI Trojan. Thanks.

Awesome gift! Way to treat yourself.

I was considering a bag like this: http://www.condoroutdoor.com/ma223-foldmagrecoverypouch.aspx to hang off my belt to collect my brass and mags, etc. Do you guys have any advice for me? Thanks.

Are you getting 50AE cases that are stretching? How many reloads does it take to get them out of spec? Just curious because I have 2 gallons of once fired .50AE ready to reload, but haven't measured them yet.

My plan was to have the swage mounted to a board, then have that board be able to move to the preset thread inserts on my bench. The swage, my press, and my vice etc will all be mounted to a plate of some sort, then I'll just use the same bolt pattern on my threaded inserts on my butcher block top bench. I was trying to keep things mobile, yet solid, for when I need the full space of my bench. I will for sure be doing the spring loaded and string trick mod on the swage when I pick one up. I've been Youtubing the reloading and swage techniques for the past few weeks. Hours of mind numbing reloading vids on Youtube. I mainly was not sure how big the mounting holes were in the swage itself. I have a whole slew of bolts...but all are big. Mostly from heavy equipment tear downs. Thanks for the thoughts guys.

I just deprimed a bunch of those Federal NT's with crimped primer pockets. Now I'm in the market for a swager as well. The only thing I've noticed is the little crimping ring on the brass around the primer. I'm no expert though.

Does the super swage come with mounting bolts or screws? What size and length of bolts for super swage? What size bolts will fit in the holes on the swage? I haven't yet purchased a super swage, and wanted to get some mounting hardware before I find a good deal on a swage. It looks like I'll need 2 longer and 1 shorter I'll be installing some steel inserts into my bench and wanted to order the matching bolts online. http://www.mcfeelys.com/steel-thread-inserts Thanks for replying