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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

michael1778

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Posts posted by michael1778

  1. The guy that does the Twang N Bang YouTube videos did a great piece on KeyMod and what user or manufacturer failures he has seen. In the end, it was really an operator/maker error, in his experience, not th eactual design. I actually lean slightly more toward MLok myself, but I haven't made my selection yet. Good luck in your choice.

  2. I only have experience with the 16" Nordic (in a CarbonArms-made upper). It's a proven half-MOA shooter with the right bozo behind the trigger. Even with me, it was MOA in the match I shot with it. Freakishly good, actually. Also tons of fun n the shoot house in that same match.

    I've seen some folk have concerns with those barrels recently (past year?). I don't know how much is sample variation or what. Mine is awesome, but I still plan on selling the upper since I don't use it much. My other upper has seen more use.

    unfortunately, I have no experience with any LaRue barrel.

  3. After finishing 9th in Trooper this year I can see that using a PCC is a MUST! Not only did they have more fun than me, some of the steel pistol targets were very challenging for a handgun and I spent too much time trying to neutralize them. The PCCs handled the long steel like a rifle and chewed through the 18 plate racks like they were nothing. I already have a JP 9mm Carbine lined up for next year and wish I would have taken the offer of a borrowed one this year. Live and learn, without the PCC you might as well shoot Open.

    Doug

    Well, that seals that deal. If I do Trooper I'll do a PCC because my long range pistol work isn't exactly up to scratch. Thank you very much for the latest and greatest feedback so soon after the match.

  4. Sounds like you guys had a good outing up there. I'm looking at ways to get a nice custom bolt gun without totally breaking the bank. So, nothing too fancy at first. Once I get that suared away, we might work on ways to share the driving from near Winston on up? Putting that thought out there for you guys. PM me if that sounds like an option.

  5. I'm simply a customer of theirs with no affiliation, but have you compared that economic trade using Tooth & Nail armory parts? My impression was that their completed gun packages were a good value. I'd recommend you check them out. Seems like there are plenty of little gotchas here and there in magazine fed shotguns that could be pains. My Open shotgun is a stock 1919XN that I had a local smith add on plenty of T&N parts. Heck of it is that I haven't even got to sight it in or break it in yet. Nothing like a new shotgun with all the Go Faster stuff that sits unused. Hate that.

    Anyway, check them out. They are active on the forum here, also.

  6. Don't shoot to empty. I think that has been the recommendation others have made about these systems.

    I've been considering doing MGM Ironman next year in Trooper Division. That's the primary reason I've been looking at pistol caliber platforms.

    Sanity will eventually resurface and I'll stick with 'just' doing Ironman in Open next year.

  7. I've got nothing but love for JP products, but when I made my GMR configurations in their Rifle Builder system, I decided against the $500 side charger "tax." If I had a SCR-11 or LRP-07 then I seriously would consider it for the "common handling and use" reason previously given. I am a strong proponent of that. That is the reason why I compete with the same brand of pistols that I use for defense and concealed carry.

    Given what has been told to me, I recommend you research the long-term reliability of the bolt hold open lowers on the market. This may explain what JP decided against offering the feature?

  8. When I bought my scope lever from Vortex, they were MGM made. It wasn't hidden at all. I don't know who makes them today. But, I'll say that since Vortex uses the trademarked word "switchview" on their web site I'd bet that MGM makes them. It's their trademark, not Vortex's.

  9. The purple fringing around so many tree branches, the top of the Stop sign, the top of the road name sign, and over on the power line tower look like evidence of chromatic aberration. Is that in the scope when you look at it or is that an artifact of this particular camera used?

    Typically that's camera

    I hope that is the case here, also. I wouldn't expect the scope to behave that way.

  10. Lite series has the top rail the entire guard length. Ultra Lite series only has a top rail segment in the final inch or two. That looks to be the source of the weight savings.

    http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_106_71&product_id=392

    Upper right corner it calls out the weight as 11 ounces (Keymod version). Same weight for the MLOK version. I'll spare you the URL for that one. But yes, the weights are on the product pages. However, some of them may not be in consistent places on the respective pages.

  11. This is confirming part sources, thank you. Fortunately, I am familiar with these to some degree or another.

    But, does anyone have data on what the typical/normal parts weigh? Like stripped forged receivers, perhaps? Are they the same weight for most makers? Given dimensional similarity, I would expect them to be very close to each other, but I wanted to be sure.

  12. Is there any chance that some of the dirt you are seeing is in fact eroded anodizing? I've seen reports of the hard titanium causing wear inside the softer aluminum in the uppers. Seems like this is happening too fast for that, but worth checking regardless.

  13. Great questions.

    Current assemblies (hope I weighed these accurately):

    • Upper assembly (no BCG or charging handle) = 3 lb, 13 5/8 oz
    • BCG and Charging Handle = 10 3/8 oz
    • Lower assembly = 2 lb 13 oz
    I am expecting to move to a hand guard that is heavier than my current CF one, so that could put me behind at the start of this process.

    If I could shave 3/4 lb off, I'd be impressed. More of it is the balance, so I think I would get good benefit if I could get a half pound out of the upper.

    I'm not sure what is a realistic goal.

  14. I've been trying to avoid this, but I think that I am missing out on this group's industry familiarity and accumulated wisdom. I do apologize if this seems like "another" rifle build thread. I'll try to make it focused? I hope so. OK, so here we go.

    My current competition rifle is a locally smithed 18" Criterion hybrid profile barrel forged upper sitting on a forged lower that I assembled completely by myself. I don't look forward to doing that again.

    In the end, I still feel as if the rifle isn't balanced to my liking. Also, the weight in general is a touch high for my taste. Not high by too much, but some. I may just do an upper replacement, but for the purposes of this post let's approach this as a clean sheet design for the entire rifle, please.

    Fixed design points:

    • Stretch 16 barrel, likely the fluted melonite version. Maybe some other 16" barrels could be considered, but the features would have to be compelling to get me away from the gas system on the Stretch 16.
    • I'll be running a bipod here and there. This is Open after all, so yeah I'm running a bipod. But I don't want to drag it around on all the stages. This is the big complaint with the current AP Customs ultra-light that I'm running. The attachment to the barrel nut flexes too much. Certainly isn't reliably stiff. Perhaps the new Gen 2 is improved. I suspect so.
    • CMC flat trigger and an Ergo Tactical Deluxe big grip
    • I'm thinking that MLok or Keymod might be the way to go for stage to stage attachment flexibility. Thoughts?
    • Any stock suggestions need to take into account my long arms (I'm 6' 1" and they are long for my height)
    • Definitely running a JP Silent Captured Spring system. I've been running one and won't 'go back'!
    • Optics mounting will be either Bobro or Aero Precision (in case I'm desperate on weight reduction). I hope I can squeeze the weight out of the rifle itself.
    • I am open to lighter weight optics for the main scope. Currently, I can alternate between Viper PST 1-4x and Viper PST 2.5-10x

    Too often, I don't see receiver or other component weights listed on vendor or manufacturer web sites. That makes this design process very difficult. Are there significant weight variations between receiver makers?

    How can I knock out upper assembly weight? What tricks could I consider for overall weight reduction?

    Conceptually, I think this is rather like a modernized 3-gun gaming-only version of the SEAL Recce or Recon rifle designs.

    Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge on how to shave off some competition rifle weight. And for helping me spend money I don't have!

    :cheers:

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