wgj3
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Posts posted by wgj3
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The projectiles in the steel match ammo are NOT from the amax line. But, if reloading, those woupd certainly be some to try for your accuracy loads. I started shooting 3gun in HM because I had the guns for it. As I got a little more experience (nothing close to Pat and Benny, of course) I started shooting everything with the 125 gr Speers and 135 gr Sierras. Made major around 2600 fps for uspsa and were incredibly flat in my 16" M1A with a Titan comp.
You might consider a lighter, lower priced bullet for most practice, smaller matches, hoser stages, shorter ranges, etc. And, then find the "right" bullet for your gun for the stages beyond 300 yds or so. Just my thoughts; worth no more than what you paid.
As long as you are buying factory ammo, just use whatever you can find that is reasonably priced and runs/shoots well in your blaster. Find a "match" load for the longer stuff. Buy in bulk whether local or online so that you can hopefully acheive some same-lot consistency. Best luck. Enjoy.
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Go with the M&P Pro. Plenty of aftermarket options available to make it yours. Add a little non-reciprocating mass and some mag extensions and go to town.
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For all of you guys and gals running the Fiocchi 1 oz reduced recoil stuff...
Have you had any issues with the ammo not fitting in your shell caddy? I'm sure that I could solve this issue with any of the load-2 caddy options, but right now I am sticking with my AP 4x4's because its what I have had the most time to get comfortable with. It seems that the rounds are a touch too long for them? Solutions/suggestions welcome.
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Ive been running one of those Midway Tac30's for ab 2 years now. I have liked better than a number of scopes at more than 2-3 tes its cost. For the investment, you will not be disappointed.
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Ive been mulling this over myself, and I think that the 7+ cylinders would be a real drag for anything that limits you to 6. Trying to properly index the cylinder would just add one more fantastic opportunity for error. Seems to me that 2 gums would be the way to go for your interests with the 7-8 rd gun first then add a 6 rd model if you are concerned about best kit for IDPA...
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Summing what others mentioned, you would want to get to a couple matches and get an idea of what division you want to shoot. Your rifle would be fine for Limited/Tac Irons, shotgun can probably be fitted with a tube but may be a challenge to get it to run reliably, pistol is perfect for HM Limited, but would be a bit of handicap in the other divisions. Knowing which division most appeals to you would be the first step in figuring out how best to adjust your kit.
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Most of the folk using vests/chest rigs are LE and Military guys using the same stuff they use for work. That rig will certainly get you started, but most of your stuff probably won't be in the optimal places for shooting a 3gun match. Our targets dont shoot back, so we have more options on gear placement. There is absolutely nothing wrong with starting out with whatever you have. Dont get frustrated, and watch a lot when you're not shooting. Observe the other guys'/gals' rigs and how they work. Probably, you are going to find that the biggest shortcoming of your plate carrier will be means to carry shotgun shells. As mentioned, spare rifle mags are often not needed, so you mostly need to be able carry pistol and spare pistol mags and shotgun shells. Enjoy!
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As mentioned above, they will work with that twist rate. I was knocking around a steel plate at 500 with that combo this afternoon. Maybe your barrel needs a different powder or seating depth or other tweak to get em going the way you want. Peter's suggestion about seating as long as you can still have them feed well is prob a great place to start.
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Gently squeezing one end a little tighter and using dremel or other means of removing a little material to create just enough taper to get the pin started has been the way that Ive made it work too. Just gotta be careful toward the end when ur really frustrated and finally get it to start, great time do silly and whack your thumb or beat up the gas block...
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I think that Mark explained it about as well as it can be explained. I've been running a 6" for a couple months now, and I can tell you that I have a much harder time getting the front sight aligned than I do with my M&P Pro. I think that some of that has to do with the platform change and some has to do with the increased difficulty in precise control.
I believe that all of my close-in shots that are mostly point shooting anyway have not changed much, I perceive that my longer range accuracy shooting has improved, and I believe that the middle range stuff is where I see the greatest challenge with the new-to-me pistol. The time I spend aligning my sights seems to have increased a little, so I just quit aiming...
It seems that I have read about how a higher magnification scope is great for being able to see your target (allowing for highest degree of precision), but it also amplifies ALL your movement (causing you to over-correct a lot). The longer sight-radius pistol is kinda like that; its all about finding the happy medium of precision vs. control-ability.
Anyone seen a 7" yet?
(and, I would think that recoil would begin when the projectile ceases to be at rest)
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Ive been loading for an M1A for a while and I did go to a small base die and saw improvements in reliability. Run rounds as long as your mags will allow. You will want to crimp to prevent projectiles from shifting under recoil in the mag. Not sure what you plan to build rounds for, but you can run a pretty good variety from 110/125 at the low end up to 175 without much trouble. The M118 LR specs seem to work well for longer projectiles. I had luck with some of the faster powders with the lighter bullets to keep pressures up enough to cycle reliably.
Just my 2 cents...
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Best to have a copy of that rulebook with you just in case you bump into the wrong SO. Never hurts to have it in black and white.
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I voted for Solo, but I just found my major and minor loads with American Select, so Im on board with both right now.
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Made it to range. Made 171+ from 6" gun. Made167 from M&P Pro. MY load (ymmv) is 4.8 of Am Sel behind a 180 gr TC moly'd cast. OAL is max I can run n M&P @ 1.17. Dont see anything to indicate excessive pressure. Snappy but acceptable. Still and a bit humid; saw some smoke, but nothing crazy.
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As mentioned previously, count yourself lucky and keep rolling. If you are super concerned about, you might want to verify your charge weight on a 2nd scale. If your primers look ok and you arent dealing with any overly sticky extraction, be happy and shoot farther.
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Anyone ever actually smelled a bunny fart? How did you accomplish this? Details appreciated, but nothing graphic please; this is a family forum.
Kidding aside. I've noticed the same thing with minor loads in my M&P Pro .40. But, the most important thing is that they run the gun well and shoot great for 3G and IDPA and minor USPSA. Soot wipes off every time...
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try a few at that. chrono. better to start low anyway. I'm working on it with some 180 molys myself. last charge had me just over 163 PF out of my 6" STI. trying to make it out to the range to check next step up. I will update you when I have the results,,,
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Most anyone that you would want to have/let build you a complete pistol can do it. I've considered having this done myself, but I've heard there are/may be some drawbacks in the reliability area. Make sure that whoever does the work will stand behind it and work with you until both top ends run properly.
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From what I understand, you should be able to get a complete top end for somewhere around $800-$1200. Maybe even a little less if you or your smith can find the pieces on sale/special. Most of the variable cost would come from slide cuts and finshes and such.
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I have two. Love 'em. I put dawson basepads on my wilson mags. Runs like a top. I went with the "gap" well so that I could still use my 10 rnd wilsons for L10, HM, and unsanctioned matches. Also allows use of standard mags in a pinch and I picked up a "no-gap" insert that fills that gap when using the Dawson basepads. Install was cake even for someone with zero 'smithing experience. Like I said, liked the first one so much that I got a 2nd for my TRP.
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Oh, and outshooting $10,000+ Perazzis and Kreighoffs with your $400 pump gun (even less in OP's case) is a priceless feeling.
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I shot a fair amount of skeet and sporting before I got into 3G and USPSA, so I already had the nice O/U with 32" barrels. Ive certainly spent some time on a skeet field with both my mossberg 930 JM and my SX3 with barrels trimmed to 24". I shot my first 25 on a skeet field with my Mossberg 835. Ive also shot with my 590 and did okay, but I felt that the lack of a rib hurt. In skeet, the gun is not nearly as important at "average guy" levels. As mentioned earlier in the thread, longer shots on a sporting course will challenge the shorter guns more. Unless you plan to do it a lot or just want the dedicated gun, all you really need is more practice and maybe a slightly tighter choke constriction in whatever gun you want use the most IMHO.
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I'm sticking with one gun for 3G and USPSA, so Im still running a .40. I dont feel as though it is a significant disadvantage. I can load down to a comparable recoil level, so the shortcoming would exist in mag capacity. Usually not a factor though.
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Seems simple enough.
2nd issue, new round catches on rear of barrel/chamber. This happens often when loading thru ejection port at "bolt-lock".
STI Aluminum Grips - CRACKED
in Open Pistols
Posted
Bad thread to resurrect? New style Al grips holding up better?