wgj3
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Posts posted by wgj3
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Could lifter mods be causing the issue?
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Hmmmm... Do we have am gunsmiths messing with these and causing as many issues as they alleviate?
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Yvette,
I never worked with u personally, but lots of folk had great things to say ab you. Great to see you're back! Lots of folk are interested in the 24" vent-rib, non-ported barrel for the 930. Let us know.
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Id like for this thread to pick up discussion of the "Poop Shooter" Ultimate sight again. Do we have any reviews of the prototypes. Does it pass the sniff test?
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Not sure how you feel about boogering up your holstet, but you could heat it up enough to fold the sight groove a little more or use a file to remove a little material in that channel.
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I'm interested in an update as well...
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Im not going to say that others cant equal his work, but Dan's M&P triggers are in a class by themselves. Its worth the wait tovhave the Burwell trigger.
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Insert the crimped end of the shell under the spring on one side. Then ease the other end toward the tip of the spring on the other side. Once it comes into contact with the spring, roll the shell away from the spring tip (toward front of carrier for back stack; back of carrier for outside stack) until it slips under the spring tip. This is a really tricky thing to put into words, but becomes second nature after you have done it a few dozen (or hundred) times. When Im in a hurry, I still often find myself using my other hand to gently lift the spring tips to get the 4th shell in without doing any damage.
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I would 2nd that the advantages are primarily ease of changing tubes and being able to know for sure which one is in the gun at any given time. Being able to keep them tight is great too. The patterning changes are great in theory, but just a hoped for extra at my skill level.
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Careful with the big tri viz rear sight. Pretty easy to catch that on something and trash it in a match.
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+1 for the TF's. Ive been running the 140's pretty hard for a little over a year. They've been nothing but awesome. Have the SSS brass magwell to add a little weight for USPSA (steel model for the occasional IDPA match). Havent looked back.
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2nd on buying it if ur still worried ab loading em.
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+1 on him being a solid guy.
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This one is simple. CDP is for 1911's. "1911's" are .45's; all the other stuff has a place in other divisions. And, you are welcome to shoot your other stuff (Glock, M&P, etc.) in CDP as long as it's .45. It's one of the first requirements of the division. Just play the game with the rules as written.
(As an aside, I do not completely agree with this, but it is how the rules were written for the game. And, regardless of how much the game is referred to as "defensive"; it's still a game.)
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+1 for Ready tac. Chris is pretty local to me and he can adjust things for you if needed. Lots of guys have had pretty good luck with his stuff. Look for his gear on CPWSA and SKD sites.
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best guess would .40. Would need OP to confirm that. Plenty of options out there for powders. Whichever primers you can find the best deal on will work just fine to start out. Another important bit of information that will be vital to determining your OAL will be the max that your mags and gun will run reliably. Striker-fired guns tend to prefer things a little closer to factory spec which would put you around 1.12 overall. "2011"-style pistols like things a little longer and you may find yourself loading a full .100 longer. Lots of factors to consider. Easiest thing to start with is a manual from Lee or Lyman or RCBS, etc. Read through all the beginning stuff and then use some of their data to get started. Those books walk you through most all the basics and whatnot to keep you safer when you are just starting out.
All that being said, I've been running Solo 1000 for a while now and have enjoyed it. I've been using it in an M&P Pro .40 loaded to about 1.17 OAL. Charges have been varied (to shoot major, IDPA and 3-gun)from right at 3.0 to over 4.0. Starting on the low end and using your chrono and keeping an eye out for pressure signs is important. I've also used American Select with decent results.
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Grip screws too long and protruding into mag well?
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Someone else (Briley, maybe) is making an aftermarket piston for this series (SX, FN, Browning) of shotguns. Just something to keep in mind if you have any issues after installing your new piston.
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I've always been a big fan of the double-front carhartts for 3-gun and such where kneeling might be included. They have held up very well, but I may have to look into some of these other options that you all are such big fans of.
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+1 for pretty darn impressive service from Brazos. I have no personal experience, but responding on a Sunday evening is pretty awesome!
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Anyone know the specs on the mag tube springs for these shotguns? Length and where they come from? Wolff?
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I would be interested in one as well. I would be sticking it on a 930 jm...
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Talk to Pat about this. He has some a pretty good amount of experience with these type issues. It mostly depends on how much of it won't fit...
I still want to see the 1-6.5 scope and I have a battery to replace the one that you so graciously loaned the other day.
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It sounds to me that the experiences that the OP had with A2/rifle length buffer/spring/extension may have been the issue more than the stock style. Maybe those were just poorly set up? Crappy spring, wrong buffer, etc.? Rifle length stuff goes into many of the fixed stocks. They would not be successful with the issues he described. I wouldn't sweat the issue being with the PRS or even the old A2 stock. Just make sure that you put good components into it and it should serve you well. Even as an anchor or paddle if needed... ( I have 2, and they are dang hefty.)
Just got her out today ... 24" JM Pro
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Most of the mods are "done", but it benefits from a few extra tweaks especially around the loading port area, lifter, etc.