ERIC
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Posts posted by ERIC
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I picked some up also but came up with different feelings and results. Maybe the one I tested is a bad one and I still plan to check the others I bought. Here's my review.
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Win once fired brass
Win small rifle primers
23.6 gn TAC
77 gn SMK
OAL 2.25
16" JP barrel - 2,480 fps
18" JP barrel - 2,550 fps
20" JP barrel - 2,620 fps
20" Walther barrel - 2,680 fps
It's not the hottest load but it's pretty accurate.
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I recently started loading 223 with my 650 and Dillon dies for long range ammo only (77 gn SMK) and ran into the same problem with my JP barrel. I loaded a bunch of them and they all passed with Dillion's case guage. While determining a load, I must have shot over 50 rounds and all of them worked just fine. I found out there was a problem during a match (of course) when a round failed to fully chamber. I had to hammer the stock on the ground to get the round out. When I got home, I noticed the die wasn't touching the shell plate even though I could swear I set it touch. I used my barrel to as a case guage and checked all of the rounds which was not fun at all. Almost half of them didn't fall out freely. I'm now stuck with a bunch of rounds I'll have to shoot out of my 556 chambered rifles which I use for full auto fun.
I agree with what others have said. I don't think the round is too fat but the shoulder needs to be sized further down.
This week, I made sure the die is touching the shell plate and then some. I'm going to borrow some bullets from my buddy and try 25 rounds and see if that helps.
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I do it to all my gas blocks that are secured with set screws and use the method recommended by Kurt. It's pretty easy and you don't need a gunsmith for that. If you can't do it yourself or find someone to do it, get a low profile gas block that clamps down. Daniel Defense, Vltor and Stag are a few companies that make them.
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Very nice!! I'd love to see a materials list. Hell I'd like to send you dimensions for one to build me.
The amount of plywood would depend on the dimensions of your project. I had a bunch of scrap/cut offs from other projects so I really don't know how many sheets I used. I used baltic birch plywood. They key parts are the heavy duty drawer slides (2 pairs for my project and they are not cheap) and Simplex 900 lock. There are cheaper lock options like a Tee handle or combination cam lock like the one my friend used. All the other stuff is personal preference (carpet, paint/finish and drawer pulls). There is also the hardware to tie it down and that will depend how you will tie it down. That's it. If you don't put on an elaborate finish, it is a really easy project. I spent almost half the time on my project just on the flag. I don't have a finishing room so I couldn't make saw dust while painting and finishing.
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When I refer to "Truck Vault" I'm refering to the company that makes stuff like this. I wouldn't say it is truely a vault because it can be broken into with the right tool and some time, but I wouldn't say the one that "Truck Vault" makes is truely a vault also since they make it out of the same material and same lock.
It is secured with 2 tie down rings that come standard in 4Runners which is located on the floor of the rear compartment behind the rear seats which holds down the back of the box - perfect location.
The lock has a pretty beefy bolt which goes into a 1/2" deep mortise into the plywood which sits back around 2" behind the front edge and has a metal plate to surround the mortise which is secured with 5/8" screws. You can't force it open without tools and it would take some time if you had the tools.
Here is the first one I made for my friend without all the bells and whistles but it works great.
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I have a Giraud trimmer which leaves a nice clean edge. I'm worried tumbling after trimming might mess that edge up so I tumble them after I resize and before trimming.
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with an Arizona flare.
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Yes they are cool!
Oh, you meant the other kind of irons. Those are OK, I guess.
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www.ar15barrels.com has a very good reputation. I've never ordered from him, but plan on it for my next. Also, I have no idea if he's back logged or not.
You might want to re-think dealing with this guy.
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I went with the +6 for my M2 with a 21" barrel. At the local matches, we are only allowed to start with 9 in the gun but you could load more once the clock goes off. It comes in handy if you have a stage where you grab your shotgun and run to a position to engage a bunch of targets or if you have a lot of time between positions and need the extra round. That gives you time to load that extra round. It sticks out beyond the barrel but that never gave me problems, even at the SMM3G where we had to ground our shotguns muzzle down in a barrel.
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Every once in a while, they throw in 75-100 yard flashers (which have to be engaged off hand) at the local weekend matches. It is pretty difficult (at least for me). I have to time pulling the trigger as I shake the muzzle past the target.
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I shot the ROs match today - a lot of fun, as always, and a lot of well-designed stages. If you like rifle hoser stages, you will LOVE this match. Several high round count shotgun stages too, probably as a result of the criticism last year. Long range rifle seems less than in previous years, but that's probably a blessing given the wind we had today. Several stages have changed significantly in layout, so don't get too hung up on the match booklet.
This happened to me on Stage 5
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The broken bolt at RM3G and now this. You are having all the luck at the big matches. I had a few jams (which never happens at the local matches) but at least nothing broke.
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A few years ago I saw someone do it what a YHM angle mount but it was with a C-More.
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About 1 year ago, I made one for my IOR 1.1x-4x out of aluminum. I posted it on this thread:
It was such a PITA because I made it with woodworking tools that I swore I'd never make another one. Well, I lied but I used a different material this time. I used a dense, slick plastic that I have on my table saw fence. I think it's the same stuff plastic chopping boards are made out from. My friend has an IOR 1.5x-8x. I don't think a zoom lever is readily available for one of those so I decided to try to make one. The zoom ring on that scope isn't flat - it has a high point and tappers down front and back. I wasn't about to try to make it out of aluminum since I didn't have the right tool or cutter so I decided to use this plastic. I was able to easily shape the inside of the zoom lever ring to match the scope ring with a sandpaper drum on the dremel and a steady hand. I tapped it and it is dense enough to hold the bolts. Once I got it on, it was solid and felt just like the aluminum one I made but was a lot easier to make. It took me 4 hours to make because of the ring shape and I had to do some trial and error fitting because I didn't have access to the scope when I started. I decided to make another one for my scope for the hell of it and it took less than 2 hours. While it isn't pretty, it gets the job done. I'm trying to get my hands on some black plastic. That will look a lot better. This material is very easy to work with and would be a good option for those who want one but no one makes it for your scope.
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Finger on the trigger. That's a no-no.
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I've been using the Federal 100 pack at Walmart and Estates without any problems. Don't get the bulk Winchester at Walmart. I bought a few boxes and they didn't have a good crimp which caused some jams.
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I built a couple. If I had to do it again, I'd find a manufacturer that could register it for me so I don't have to engrave my name, city and state on the lower.
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That's a good price for a mount. I'd mill that crap off the top. I've been using a Larue with QD for 4 years and only removed it once only to see if it held zero (which it did). If I were to do it all over, I'd consider one without the QD and save a lot of money.
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I've only tried one type of 8 round magazine for my 45. I bought them around 8 years ago and never had any issues with them so I never needed to try any other brand They are CMC power mags.
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It would be nice if the manufacturers who make the illumination only good for dusk and not full sun, also provide a model without any illumination and take $200-$400 off the price tag.
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I use a 9mm Edge with a lightened slide for 3 gun and steel matches. I've got a 40 when I want to shoot major at paper matches. The only big match I shoot is the SMM3G and the 23+1 capacity advantage hasn't come into play but there are some local matches where it has.
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Have you checked the ammo? I was shooing a match last week and the bolt on my M2 didn't go into battery. I checked the round and the tip was mushroomed. I checked the rest of the ammo in the box and all of them has a slight mushroom but some were able to function OK. It was bulk Winchester from Walmart.
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I've been using a Geiselle 2 stage for over 3 years and like it. It is a lot nicer than a RR 2 stage I used to use. It is fully adjustable and I never had the set screws move on me. I bought it before they came out with different models. I used to run a single stage but decided to go with a 2 stage after I bounced the trigger (unintentionally) twice in a stage and got a DNF. I had a lot of my friends try it and they like it but they can't justify the $260 price tag.
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New CMMG Mag review
in Rifle - Technical
Posted · Edited by ERIC
I guess you're like me and don't like reading an entire thread. Further down, I updated it with a test and has some issues. Did the finish rub off on yours? Was it hard to load the entire 42? I'm wondering if I have a bad one.