ERIC
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Posts posted by ERIC
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For $30 more, I'd get one of these:
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I think the gas block might not be lined up, rotation wise. It is hard to visually see if low profile gas block is rotated to the right position. Find a flat table and 2 blocks with parallel sides like machinists setup blocks. Take the upper off the lower. Put one block under the gas block (which should be flat) and put the other block under the upper between the take down pins. You should be able to see if the gas block is lined up correctly if both contact points are flat with the blocks. If all the manufacturers did their part, that should line it up. Don’t forget the 0.025” gap but you might want to measure it anyways to confirm it.
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That has been brought out a few times at the local match. Most of the time, we had to engage it with slugs and once with a pistol. I can't remember how many shots it took with my 9mm minor but it seemed like a lot. It only takes 2 hits with low recoil slugs. That thing is a blast.
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I've been using a Geissele hi speed for over 4 years and never had a problem with it. They now sell it with different springs so you could adjust it to how you like. I don't have any problems with close or far targets. I've tried RRA, LMT and Knights Amrament 2 stage triggers and Geissele is the best with the KA a very close second. I like the fact that is uses a full strength hammer spring. Single stage triggers require the use of reduce power hammer springs to lighten the pull. The only negative is the price and the location of the J-hook in the hammer is not in the standard location so you have to use the pins that come with the kit.
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If you are happy with Remington and like the 1100, you should like the 1187 even more. It has a stainless steel mag tube which is easier to clean and will never rust. If you want a lighter weight shotgun and weak hand reload, the Benelli would be the better choice. I shot a 1187 for 5 years before switching to a M2. I think both are fine shotguns.
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We had something similar to that at a 3 gun match where we had to engage the star with the shotgun and the hard cover was solid so you couldn't see the plate coming.
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I have an older IOR 1.1x-4x with a mil BDC reticle. A couple of years ago, my friend bought the 1.5x-8x and I called Valdada twice to ask what velocity and scope height was used for the BDC. Each time I talked with someone different and got different answers. I wish this info was posted on their website but the truth is that it really doesn't make a whole lot of difference for our game assuming we are shooting at larue size targets at a max of 500 yards. If you were trying to hit the 10 ring at further distances, then it matters but you probably should be using a different scope for that game.
With that said, I'd prefer a mil BDC over one calibrated for a specific load. It makes the math easier if you want to use a different bullet, velocity, and zero distance.
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Insulate the garage door, seal the vents, get a 12,000 BTU AC unit and a good fan and your problem will be solved. That's what I did with my 2 car garage when I got into woodworking. I turned it on last week when I was going to start a new project when it was around 110 outside. It was 98 in the garage and it cooled down to 87 in around 3 hours which is very comfortable and what I set it to. The humidity in the garage is so low, it feels cooler in there compared to the house which is set at 80. I have a vertical wall unit but a portable one should work just fine and you could probably more it closer to you so you might not have to cool the entire garage.
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It's funny how the website states the H58 reticle is an uncluttered, narrow grid. The people who think the IOR's reticle looks cluttered will really hate this scope. I'm a big fan of BDCs but it would be useless for our game if it can't be seen at 4x. The price does make it tempting.
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I made this as a gift for a local AR15 manufacturer who is also a sponsor of the SMM3G. I was thinking of small photos to fill the voids but I didn't want people to have to get up close to see the photos which are 5"x7" and I didn't want it to look too cluttered like scrap books. The mat board was cut out for each photo so a bunch of smaller ones would've been a real pain. Assembly was difficult because there is no easy way to clamp things down while the glue dries and it was glued 1 joint at a time except for the last piece. The aftermarket table saw miter guide is so accurate, that the last piece to be glued on (which was the bottom horizontal piece) only needed a 1 degree adjustment to fit but I must admit the frame is not perfectly square. The joints came out surprisingly tight. The finish is urethane which was wiped on. I used maple splines for the joints. I've made a couple of rectangular frames but this one was a challenge. I haven't given any thought on making some to sell but just the materials for this one was over $100 and shipping something this big and delicate can't be cheap.
For JimmyZip, I including a couple of photos of the work bench.
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It is made out of walnut and maple. I placed it next to a standard target to give you an idea how big it is.
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The SSA and DMR are different because the SSA isn't adjustable while the other is. I've been using a DMR or Match (I can't remember) for around 5 years and never had any issues with it. Everyone that has tried my trigger is impressed by it but not too many people want to drop $280 for a trigger.
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I don't know much about motors but I decided to open it up since I thought it was toast and see what makes it tic. I found out one of the bearings was bad. I got a replacement bearing from a local motor repair shop and it works just fine now. The bearing costs $10.
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I'm about to get a KISS bullet feeder and just want to make sure I can still use my redding competition die. Can you explain what you mean "through the bottom of the die?" Is this something specific to the KISS bullet feeder?
The RCBS competition die has an opening at the top of the die where you drop in the bullet instead of placing it on the case. You should be OK with your setup.
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New as in sometime in November 2008 on the CV-500(renamed CV-750 to distinguish), and February 2009 on the CV-2001.
Thanks for the info. If I brought it to Dillon for repair, would the replacement be this newer motor?
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The new sealed bearing motors in both the 500 and 2001 tumblers are the best motors Dillon's ever had in their tumblers.
be
When you say "new", how new are we talking about?
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Mine lasted almost 3 years before the motor went out. I went with this larger model after my small Dillon broke after 9 years because I heard it has a more durable motor. I don't see too many threads about people having problems with this model so I'm thinking I just got a lemon. How long has yours lasted?
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My friend recently got that die for his 223 but he has a 650. He ran a couple of rounds by putting the bullet on the case because he wasn't used to putting it through the die and it still worked OK.
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My question too, Tyler!!
How about a custom JP 18" barrel that is 650 under the tube and 750 out to the end in 1x8 twist??
Light wt, very swingable, long enough to put a sight block out the end and make longer sight radius.
Pretty much everything you are asking for and then you don't have to sit on any barrels waitin for them to sell.
Tim
That should be a standard barrel from JP. I always wondered why they went with the bull barrel profile up front and the 0.936 gas block. Around 7 years ago, they didn't offer a 18" 1:8 twist barrel. They had to make me a custom one by cutting down a 20" and I recently found out the muzzle thread isn't 1/2x28 tpi. Strange. I'd still go with a JP barrel even with the bull barrel profile but I'd go with a 20". I shoot with a few guys who use that and it doesn't hinder them and the extra velocity doesn't hurt.
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I've been using a MIAD but the combination of the inserts I use is the same as the MOE so I'll save a few bucks and get the MOE from now on. I've tried the Ergo but it seems too small. If you like the rubber feel of the Ergo and the size of the MOE, Magpul will be releasing a rubber coated MOE this year.
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I ordered from DrillSpot Sunday night and got it today. It did come from Grainger which is just up the street from my place. Not only was this place cheaper but I didn't have to pay sales tax or leave my house. It is finer than the stuff I get from Powder Valley but it shouldn't get stuck in the flash hole which was a PITA to look for and take out.
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I just found this place- looks like free shipping too.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/521055/e...lbs_blast_media
Thanks for that link. I was just about to order some from Powder Valley since I was ordering powder but they ship it separately and would've charged me $20 for shipping.
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I started out with a 8 rounder on my 1187 and upgraded to a 10 rounder (both have the front strap). When I switched to a Benelli, the recoil caused the rear portion to come off. Maybe the velcro was getting old. I added another strap to the rear to hold it in place. Here it is on my 1187.
These guys should be able to hook you up.
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Putting some saran wrap between the tube and the cover might help with the moisture if you decide to keep powder in them.
US Nationals 2010
in USPSA Nationals
Posted
That is some old video. Now Nils is around 20 lbs lighter and Peter is taller than Nils.