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ERIC

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Posts posted by ERIC

  1. I've been using Truglo on my M2 for 3-4 years and haven't had any problems. It is the older version that clamps on like Williams but the newer Truglo looks like the clamping system is more beefy. I also ran the Williams on my 1187 for a couple of years and never had problems. Make sure to loctite everything.

  2. I checked my press and it looks similar to the one in the OP. I contacted Forster and they tell me the hole doesn't need to be centered with the outside diameter of the casting and it is centered with the yoke/handle casting. While I think it could've been done to look better, it doesn't affect the function of the press and I'm OK with that.

  3. What were testing or proving with that buckshot stage?

    I've been wondering that since it was introduced into our montly matches. What next, shotshell ammo with our pistols.

    Despite having some of the most aggressive and competitive gamers in the nation at Rio Salado, none of the ROs uncovered this chink in the armor.

    That's because the more aggressive and competitive local gamers shot Fri-Sun.

  4. To me, it doesn't sound like the stage should've been thrown out due to safety issues. This could happen in any stage if you think about it. Let's say a less experienced shooter sees how the top shooters run a stage and he tries to copy them but ends up being unsafe because he is trying to shoot and move faster than he should or can. People should know what their limits are and shoot within them and the RO's should DQ the unsafe ones.

  5. The illumination isn't day time visible so you can't use it like a red dot. I wish they offered these scopes without illumination to drop the price. The BDC is calibrated for a specific ammo and not in standard mils. The zoom ring is stiff and nobody makes a zoom lever for this model. You are limited to the scope mounts because of the 35mm tube. Other than that, it is a nice scope. My friend has one. I use an IOR 1.1-4 which has a zoom lever and BDC in mils and like it a lot for the price.

  6. The delrin and threads have been holding up pretty good. It doesn't take a lot of force to get it tight and doesn't come loose. It takes a good amount of force to pull them apart and I'd rather have that fail before the scope gets damaged. I made some for a couple of friends and they put it through 2-SMM3G matches as well as 2 years worth of monthly matches in the heat and cold of AZ. That said, I'd recommend spending the money and getting and aluminum one if there is one for your scope. Delrin is a good alternative if no one makes it for your scope or if you are trying to save money.

    I have a couple of tips I've learned since making the first one. Make it as thick as possible to get more thread engagement. Also, you only need to cut the ring in one place if you heat up the other side and bend it over the scope. It looks a lot cleaner and is a lot less work. Oh ya, use black delrin because it looks better than white. Here is one I made for my IOR on my backup and for my Meopta because I was too cheap to buy one.

    BTW, please don't contact me to make one. I hate making these things.

    post-2477-052426300 1300486920_thumb.jpg

    post-2477-095165500 1300486929_thumb.jpg

  7. I added the string/rubber band mod earlier this year and it works great but it does require some adjustments as the string and rubber band stretch. I was bored this afternoon and decided to swage some 223 brass and thought there must be a more durable solution after the rubber band broke. Here are some photos of what I came up with.

    post-2477-052569300 1288251349_thumb.jpg post-2477-000731800 1288251339_thumb.jpg

    I replaced the string with 1/16” galvanized cable and the rubber band with a 6” extension spring. I was thinking of using brake cable used for bikes but it was smaller than 1/16” and the smallest ferrule I could find is 1/16”.

    I started by tapping 2 6-32 holes on the handle that flicks the cases. Those hold the 1.5”x1/4”x3/4” bar that serves as an extension to keep the spring from hitting anything. I milled a high and low notch at the end of the bar to hold the spring because I wasn’t sure which pivot point would work better – the high one worked better for my setup. On the other end, the spring hooked on nicely to the C-clip retainer. The bolts were all I had laying around and need to be cut down.

    I don’t like looping both ends. I originally planned on having the loop go over the long bolt on the handle but the cable was too short. Luckily, it works fine clamped between the handle and the bar. A better alternative is not to loop that end and clamp down the cable with either another bar or washers. That will make that end easily adjustable.

    It is mounted on plywood with a grove cut out so the cable can slide under the unit.

    I’ll have to keep an eye out for wear where the cable rubs. I’ve already ran around 1k through it without any problems.

  8. That is a pretty stiff compression washer. Contact Dillon and get a new one. I have a Unique Tek micrometer on my powder bar and noticed the setting changed the other day because the rod that resets the powder bar wasn't lined up right and caused a violent jolt which was enough to change the setting. Once I lined it up correctly, all was good and the setting hasn't changed 2k rounds later.

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