ERIC
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Posts posted by ERIC
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I like the Arrendondos and use them with ranger plates to give me extra height when prone. I originally started using them with USGI mags and they slipped no matter how much I tightened them. I'm glad I didn't toss them. It took a little effort to get them on but once installed, it is a rock solid combo.
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I'm sure someone here will take that M2 off your hands.
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I could only take design credit for the crib and drawers under the stairs. The rest came from books or magazines. Those free form boxes (bandsaw boxes) always get people wondering how they were made. I've done around 20 of them over a 6 year period.
I like to use a wipe on finish that is a mix of tung oil and urethane to make the curls pop and give it a warm look and it's a strong finish. The crib has a water based finish and that's why the maple slats look so white. Another strong finish that has made it through bodily fluids from 3 kids. I have a nice Apollo sprayer that can do oil and water based finishes but I never got around to using it because I don't have a spray booth or the room for a booth. Most of my projects are pretty small and I like to take my time with the finish and apply it by hand. If I were to do kitchen cabinets, I'd find room for a spray booth.
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Each machine has a line running to it with a blast gate and I open and close the blast gates manually but the dust collector is on a remote control. Yes, I also have a jointer and planer along with a band saw, drill press, drum sander, router table, spindle sander and belt/disk combo sander. My garage no longer stores cars.
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Is the drawer table in the 5th picture wenge and curly maple? That is very nice. What sort of saw do you use? What do you do about dust collection? I'm always using a friends shop to do things, but would like to set up something here at home, just don't like the idea of the dust.
It is made from Peruvian walnut and curly maple. I am finishing up a couple more, one made of wenge and birdseye maple and padauk and curly maple. It is a table center piece and is 18" x 18" x 12". I have a Jet cabinet saw and an Oneida cyclone central dust collection system.
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Since my shooting skills isn't all that great, I thought I show off my mad woodworking skills instead. You guys have already seen my homemade truck vault.
Here's some of my other stuff.
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Hello: There are called a Dillon RL 1050
The RL 1050 has a shorter stroke than the Super 1050 and seats the primer on the downstroke. With the bullet feeders they can really crank out the ammo. I use mine for 9mm,40,45acp and 223. It works great for all of those. Hope this helps or maybe it will cost you more money and time looking for a RL1050 
Thanks, EricI'd love an RL 1050 for 9mm and 223. It would take care of those PITA military primer pocket crimps.
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I don't know if someone posted this idea before but here it goes.
I was at the bench reloading some 9's on my 650 and noticed that around 50% of the piston movement and lever stroke is not needed. I know all that movement is great for long rifle rounds but I mainly reload pistol calibers and 223 for long range stages only. So I started to wonder, why not have a 650 dedicated to pistols calibers only where the piston only moves around 2.5" and the stroke is cut in half? Less movement and faster reloading.
Here are the downsides I could think of so far:
1. Seating the primer will done while pulling up on the handle instead of forward. That could be difficult for some. If you look at the loader from the side, the primer is seated at around the 2 o'clock position so you push forward. A half stroke will seat the primer at the 10-11 o'clock position which requires an upward force.
2. If there is a jam, there is less space to get you fingers between the dies and the shell plate.
What do you guys think? Has something like this been done before?
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Not another division!
Next we'll have a division for semi shotguns and scoped rifles in heavy metal. Oh wait, I already used that line in another thread.
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I don't think that anything that requires power will have the "No BS Warranty".
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I agree with Nik. I just fixed my friends 1100 with the same problem. He installed the easy loader without trimming the tab that controls the sensitivity so the bolt closed (even when empty) with the jolt of the recoil.
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I use Williams Fire sights mounted on the rib on my M2. I don't like getting my head low into the shotgun and like having a rear sight to help with those long slug shots.
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Accuracy - probably not
Consistency - yes
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Does the kit come with one of his machined toolheads or a standard Dillon?
I have a Giraud trimmer which I use for 223. I noticed that the chamfer it leaves isn't concentric all the way around. I wonder if this floating system will fix that.
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This would be a cool screen saver.
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There is a mag loader for these magazines and it works pretty well and costs $10.
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Can't go wrong with JP parts. They make a 16" mid length barrel that has a light profile under the handguard along with a low profile gas block.
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I use the SPR with the 1.5" height with an IOR 1.1-4 and Meopta 1-4. Some people like the extended model which gives them more flexiblity to move the scope forward but I find the SPR to work for me and I like to keep my nose close to the charging handle and I still have room to move it forward if I wanted to. I never tried the 1.93" height and the 1.5" works for me because I like to get my cheek into it while others like their head straight up. That comes down to personal preference but the taller one should help with the ear muffs. I hate ear plugs but I use them to solve that problem.
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You might also want to consider how you plan to reload. Off the side saddle, I didn't notice any benefit from the Ben or Rem. If you plan to do a weak hand reload, Ben all the way.
I started with a Rem 11-87 6 years ago and got used reloading from the side saddle and forearm. It worked well for me and I really didn't have any problems with it but I decided to go with a Ben M2 last year to see what all the hub-bub was about. I think both are good choices but I miss the softer recoil of the Rem but the Ben requires less maintenance and has less moving parts to break. I plan to stick with the Ben and learn how to weak hand reload some day.
My Rem is now my backup but at the 2009 SMM3G, it ended up being a parts source for my friends when they had problems with their Rems. Luckily I didn't need it but I also never had those kind of problems with my Rem.
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Spike's Tactical also makes a nice conversion in the same price range and it is nickel coated to make cleaning easier. That's what I'm using on my dedicated 22lr AR and it works great.
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The clear looks cool but I wonder if the black one is stonger.
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I'm a fan of a collapsible stock. I use it at a set length most of the time but every once in a while, we are made to shoot in a weird position and it helps to be able to shortened the stock to get more comfortable.
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No drum mags in tac rifle. I know a couple of guys who bought them after the roller coaster stage who won't be happy they can't use them after all without going into open. At least they bought them after the ban expired. It would be cool to see that prop again.
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I don't know if the gas tube comes with the barrel but you'll need one of those. You also might want to reconsider the 16" bull barrel. If you are set on a 16", get something with a lighter profile and a mid length gas system.
The RL 1050 has a shorter stroke than the Super 1050 and seats the primer on the downstroke. With the bullet feeders they can really crank out the ammo. I use mine for 9mm,40,45acp and 223. It works great for all of those. Hope this helps or maybe it will cost you more money and time looking for a RL1050 
Thanks, Eric
Why not a short stroke Dillon 650 for pistol calibers only?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by ERIC
What if you didn't have to buy a new machine but instead change 4 or 5 simple bolt on parts? What type of increase in production would make this worthwhile? Keep in mind, we're only talking about 650 machines with a case feeder and short pistol calibers only (9mm, 40, 45, 38 super, etc.) and no magnums.